r T^'J. 



^ 







<> o 

- 






'% $ 









^^HtV 






A.V </*, 






sV 









A 



. 










/ v. 



V '/ S 



& 



A \ v "<$* S'~ 



















^'% 



A 






* v 



D 



■ 



<\. 



*6 N 






x°^. 












cf V 













* 




o N 


•• 


^ 


^ 


>* 










-^ 









v 



V 















vV ./> 



^ 






• .V 












^ * 



W 












THE 



Central Railroad 



OK 



New Jersey. 



AN ILLUSTRATED GUIDE-BOOK (WITH ROAD-MAPS). 



GUSTAV KOBBE. 




Gustav Kobb£. 
251 Broadway, New York. 



Copyright 1890, by Gustav KobpiL 






PREFACE. 



This aims to be an accurate descriptive 
guide-book to those parts of Central and 
Northern New Jersey that are reached by 
the main stem of the Central Railroad of 
New Jersey and its branches. 

Historical matter relating to these sec- 
tions has been carefully collected, and the 
most striking incidents have been incorpo- 
rated in the work in order that the book may 
have romantic as well as descriptive and sta- 
tistical interest. 

I shall esteem it a favor if any one who 
may discover any errors of commission or 
omission will call my attention to them. 



GUSTAV KOBBE. 



Shopt Hills, 

Essex Co., N. J. 



TJie illustrations are from drawings by 
Marie Olga Kobbe and F. A. Feraud ; from 
aquarelles by Hugh SmtjtJie ; direct from photo- 
graphs ; and from views of Lake Hopatcong 
kindly furnished by the Hotel Breslin. 







m 



INTRODUCTION. 



[The Author will esteem it a favor if his attention is called to 
any errors of omission or commission.] 



Topography and Geology. — New Jersey lies on the 
eastern slope of the Appalachian region. The eastern 
base of this system is a plain sloping gently toward the 
Atlantic, with an elevation along the base of the moun- 
tains of from 200 to 600 feet in New Jersey. Those 
portions of the State described in this book lie chiefly 
within the limits of the Triassic Red Sandstone Plain 
and the Azoic Central Highland Plateau. Remarkable 
features of the Red Sandstone Plain are its prominent 
ridges of trap-rock. 

Bergen Point is a ridge of trap, a continuation of the 
Palisades of the Hudson. The Newark and New York 
branch of the Central Railroad of New Jersey cuts 
through this ridge and, after crossing the Hackensack 
and Passaic and traversing the tidal meadows, enters the 
Red Sandstone Plain at Newark. The branch from 
Newark to Elizabeth runs for the entire distance after 
leaving the line of the Newark and New York branch to 
Elizabethport through the tidal meadows. 

The main stem follows the trap-rock ridge almost the 
entire length of Bergen Point. Then, crossing Newark 
l>ay, it enters at Elizabethport the Red Sandstone Plain, 
which it traverses to Lebanon, where it penetrates the 
southwestern end of the Highlands to Phillipsburg on 
the Delaware, running from Westfield to Somerville 
within full view of the Watchung Mountains of trap- 
rock. From the vicinity of Pompton these two ridges 
run southwest and continue for 40 miles exactly par- 
allel, with their crests one and one-half miles apart. 
Each has a steep eastern slope and a long, gentle 
western one, with remarkably level crests. The east- 
ern ridge is called First, the western Second Mountain, 



Vlll 






and they have various local names. Between Summit 
and Bound Brook the valley between the ridges pours 
its drainage through three narrow gaps in First Moun- 
tain — Green Brook at Scotch Plains ; Stony Brook at 
Plainfield ; and Middle Brook at Bound Brook. This 
valley is called Washington Valley. It is narrow at 
Summit, but widens back of Bound Brook at Martins- 
ville. At Milburn there is a gap of two miles in First 
Mountain, which then rises to 546 feet, but southwest of 
this its crest keeps below 500 feet, though at Washing- 
ton Rock, back of Plainfield, it attains a height of 539 
feet. Second Mountain rises at Summit to 547 feet, and 
eighteen miles southwest to 653 feet. 

At Martinsville both ridges turn a right angle and run 
back northwest toward the Highlands, which are only 
six miles beyond. First Mountain falls off at Plucka- 
min. Second Mountain continues north from this point 
almost to the Highlands, then curves back northeast. 
Just at this point is the only pass through Second Moun- 
tain, excepting the outlet of the valley, at Paterson, 
which is lower than the pass at Summit. Were this pass 
(Moggy Hollow) closed and a dam one and one-half miles 
long raised across the outlet at Totowa, near Paterson, 
a lake would be formed, between Second Mountain and 
the Highlands, of 300 square miles, 200 feet deep in the 
deeper parts and 385 feet above the sea. A series of 
distinct gravel terraces within this area, with elevations 
close to 400 feet, show that at some time in the glacial 
epoch such a lake actually existed. 

Cushetunk Mountain near White House and Lebanon 
is also a trap formation. It forms a horseshoe, sweeping 
about an ellipsoidal valley (Round Valley) which is 
completely encircled by it and the gneiss hills at the 
west. Its maximum elevation is 767 feet. The length 
of the semi-circular sweep of trap is about seven miles. 

The soil of the Red Sandstone Plain is remarkably 
fertile, and this section is the most densely populated of 
New Jersey. The formation contains few organic 
remains. Fossil fishes, footprints of what probably 
were air-breathing animals of the Reptilian age, and 
plants evidently of a higher order than those belonging 
to the Carboniferous age. have been discovered. 

The Red Sandstone Plain is of sedimentary origin, 



IX 



and its entire area is believed to have been as high as the 
tops of the trap ridges which now rise up so boldly out 
of the plain. But it has been worn away, probably by 
glacial erosion, to a depth of from 300 to 500 feet. The 
trap, which is of igneous origin, is supposed to have 
been sandwiched between two layers of sandstone, the 
upper of which gave the ridges a height nearly as great 
again as they now possess. When this upper layer had 
been worn away, the hardness of the trap defeated the 
power of the eroding agent, and the trap ridges remained 
while the rest of the plain was worn away to the depths 
mentioned above. The long line of Short Hills in Middle- 
sex County which stretches between the two mountain 
gaps at Scotch Plains and Plainfield seems to be composed 
of the drift which the eroding agency forced through 
these notches. In the gap in First Mountain in Essex 
County is another locality similarly formed, and, oddly 
enough, similarly named. 

The southern iimitof the great sheetof ice which once 
covered New Jersey, in common with the rest of our 
continent, down to latitude 40° 30', has been defined in 
the reports of the Geological Survey of New Jersey, 
and its terminal moraine clearly traced across the State. 
It is distinctly marked by a line of extremely irregular, 
fantastically-arranged hills of gravel and boulders formed 
of the material eroded by the glacier from the hills to 
the north and deposited here where the ice melted. 
This moraine begins at Perth Amboy and runs thence 
through Metuchen, east of Plainfield, where the Nether- 
wood Hotel is built upon it, to the base of the First 
Mountain north of Scotch Plains. Thence the mantle of 
gravel is wrapped about the slope and over the north end 
of Springfield or Roll's Hill and filling completely the 
valley west, crosses Second Mountain and lies up against 
the north end of Long Hill, at Chatham. From here to 
Morristown it fills the valley of the Passaic with a broad 
ridge of gravel ; thence it skirts around the base of the 
Highlands and up through the valley of the Rockaway 
to Dover. From here the line is quite direct by Budd's 
Lake, Hackettstown and Townsbury, to Belvidere. 

To the north of this the ice sheet was thick enough 
to overtop all of the mountains of northern New Jersey 
and most of those of New York. Its movement was 



generally toward the south, and when we recall that a 
thickness of 2,000 feet would mean a pressure at the 
base of sixty tons per square foot, and that often boul- 
ders were imbedded in the base of the ice and moved 
forward with irresistible force, it may bring some con- 
ception of the enormous eroding action of the glacier. 
It denuded the ridges of all disintegrated rocks, scoop- 
ing out transverse depressions where the rock was soft, 
and leaving often hard, bare summits and irregular, 
jagged ridge lines in place of the well-soiled, gracefully- 
undulating ridges to the south of the moraine. It de- 
posited in the valleys great masses of gravel and mud. 
which have been in some cases assorted and worked 
down into level terraces by water, but again left in all 
the fantastic disorder of their original deposition, in 
crooked ridges enclosing bowl-like depressions with no 
outlets, or hills carrying similar depressions in their 
very tops, like small volcanoes with their craters, and in 
every conceivable topographically-monstrous arrange- 
ment. Often these deposits have closed the outlet of 
a valley, holding back the water in beautiful lakes and 
ponds, "the water having been forced back over the orig- 
inal divide of the valley into another drainage system. 
When the drift dam has not been high enough fur this, 
it has been cut away again by the water overtopping it. 
Remains of such dams may be found, with gravel ter- 
races on the slopes of the valley above to mark the 
shores of the ancient lakes. The above accounts for 
the existence of most of the beautiful lakes of the north- 
ern counties, and also for the swamps and sink-holes 
which are merely shallow lake basins which have become 
filled with mud or vegetable matter. The drift dam 
which has formed Budd's lake is very evident, as is the 
one at Green Pond. The slopes of the hills of this 
region have usually been left covered with boulders, the 
finer material having been carried down into the valleys 
by water, and the whole aspect of the country has been 
changed. 

The branch which the Central Railroad of New Jersey 
sends north from High Bridge penetrates into the very 
heart of the Highlands. Their surface varies from 175 
feet to 1,200 feet above the sea level. The chief moun- 
tain-ranges in point of size are Schooley's and Green 



XI 

Pond. Magnetic iron ore is found in abundance through- 
out this region. Of the deposits west of the Green Pond 
Mountain those of the Hurd and Ford Mines are the 
most important. 

These ores occur in the Azoic rocks which underlie by- 
far the greatest portion of this territory. They are not 
veins, but are of sedimentary origin. It is supposed that 
proto-salts of iron were leached out of the rocks by water 
and carried by it to some pond hole, there forming 
metallic films which would successively sink of their own 
weight, forming an ever-thickening layer of iron rust at 
the bottom of the pond hole. Afterward, through some 
action of nature, such as subsidence or elevation of the 
surrounding country, an influx of mud and sand cov- 
ered the rust, forcing the greater part of the water off 
and solidifying the layer. Limonite in this form occurs 
at Beattystown. Further agencies converted this lim- 
onite into magnetic iron ore, and through convulsions of 
nature what once formed the bottoms of lakes may have 
become hills or mountains. 

Another geological period represented by the rocks of 
the Highlands is the Lower Silurian, which includes the 
deposit of Potsdam sandstone near Flanders, where it 
occurs in the form of a fine white sand, which, being 
very refractory, is extensively used as a lining for fur- 
naces. To this period also belongs the magnesian lime- 
stone, the largest deposit of which is found in German 
Valley. It is about nine miles long by one-half mile 
wide, extending from a mile northeast of Naughright 
to a mile southwest of Califon, and is much worked for 
lime for farming purposes and for use in the blast fur- 
naces at Chester and Boonton. There is then a break 
in the geological succession, the next period represented 
being the Triassic, or new Red Sandstone. 

This portion of the Highlands, which is known as the 
Central Highland Plateau, has a width of from five to 
seven miles from the New York line to Lake Hopatcong 
and Budd's Lake, but tapers down irregularly to a ridge 
two miles wide near the Delaware. The Central Railroad 
attains at t^e Ogden Mines the highest elevation 
reached by any railroad in the State — 1,240 feet. Just 
; north of Ford' and Scofield Mines the plateau is 1,396 
feet high, the maximum for this section of the State. 



Xll 

Lake Hopatcong, with a surface-elevation of 926 feet, 
lies right in the middle of the plateau. 

At the south end of Lake Hopatcong is an important 
pass, at the same elevation as the surface of the lake ; 
and it is worthy of note that, while the natural outlet 
of the lake is westward by the Musconetcong, the dam 
erected across this outlet by the Morris Canal Co. 
would have sent its water coursing eastward into the 
Raritan water-shed, had not a small side dam been 
raised at the extreme south end of the lake. Southwest 
of this pass is Schooley's, and beyond this Musconetcong 
Mountain. In popular parlance, however, Lake Hopat- 
cong is located on Schooley's Mountain, the name being 
extended so as to cover the plateau northeast of the pass. 

Natural History. — The Minerals of chief impor- 
tance in the territory covered by this book are the Magnetic 
Iron Ores along the route of the Ogden Mine Railroad (a 
part of the High Bridge branch of the Central Railroad 
of New Jersey), at High Bridge, Chester and Port Oram ; 
Liraonite at Califon, Limestone at Vernoy, Granite at 
German Valley, and Copper Ores near Somerville. 

The Fauna is that of the Middle States; but special 
mention may be made of the black bass, Oswego bass, 
pickerel and perch in some of the lakes, and the trout 
in some of the stream*; and of the game birds. These 
are, however, mentioned in the body of the book. The 
typical mountain butterfly, Limin Arthemis, is found 
in the Highlands, and Satiris Nephele replaces Satiris 
Alope of the low lands. 

The Flora of this region is in general similar to that 
of the country adjacent to New York. The bous about 
Budd's Lake and Succasunna contain some plants that 
are not known elsewhere in the State; for instance, 
Potent ilia palustris, Satis my rt Mo ides, Rhododendron 
Canadense. The aquatic flora of the larger bodies of 
water, Hopatcong and Green Pond, and, in a lesser de- 
gree, Budd's Lake, is extremely interesting and has been 
carefully explored by botanists. The higher mountain 
summits are inhabited by plants of a more northerly 
range, a great many interesting species being found 
there that do not occur on the low lands; among these 
being Potentilla arguta, Clematis verticillaris, Coplis 
tri folia, GiHmia trifoliata and Genru rivale. 



Xlll 

The forests of the region are abundant, and much 
land that cannot be used for farming purposes is de- 
voted to woodland. Birch, oak, maple and hickory are 
found in abundance and there are a few groves of white 
pine, which, however, is not so often seen as further 
south on the coast. 

Climate. — Summer in the Highlands is not marked 
by so great extremes of heat, and hence the weather is 
much more endurable than in the cities. The attractive- 
ness of Schooley's Mountain, Lake Hopatcong, Budd's 
Lake, Chester and other Highland resorts is no doubt 
owing to the absence of excessively high temperature in 
midsummer ; or more especially, perhaps, to the more 
markedly lower night temperature. On the Red Sand- 
stone Plain, where the thermometric record may show 
but little difference between the temperature of the city 
and country, there is no doubt that the more open situa- 
tion of the latter, which allows a free circulation of air, 
is an advantage which offsets mere temperature. 

History. — August 16, 1009, Henry Hudson entered 
Delaware Bay. Finding the navigation difficult on ac- 
count of shoal water, he changed his course, and, follow- 
ing the eastern shore of New Jersey, anchored his ship 
(the Half Moon) in Sandy Hook Bay September 8, 160SJ. 
September 11th he sailed through the Narrows and dis- 
covered the river which bears his name. October 4 he 
again set sail for Europe. Hudson was in the employ of 
the Dutch East India Company, which in 1610 despatched 
a vessel to the scene of his discoveries and established a 
fort and trading-house on Manhattan Island, which was 
called New Amsterdam. 

It appears that as early as 1614 a redoubt was thrown 
up on the right bank of the Hudson, probably at the 
present Jersey City point ; and, in 1618, Bergen is be- 
lieved to have been settled by a number of Danes or Nor- 
wegians who accompanied the Dutch colonists to New 
Netherlands. 

In 1664, Charles II of England resolved upon the re- 
duction of New Netherlands, and despatched a fleet 
under Sir Robert Carr and Colonel Richard Nichols, to 
whom the Dutch Governor, Stuyvesant, was forced to 
surrender. Meanwhile King Charles had made an ex- 
tensive grant of colonial territory to his brother, the 



XIV 

Duke of York, who in turn conveyed to Lord Berkeley 
and Sir George Carteret that portion of the grant which 
is now the State of New Jersey. This name being given 
to the new province in honor of Carteret, who had held 
the Island of Jersey for the King during his contest with 
Parliament. 

These two Proprietors appointed Philip Carteret Gov- 
ernor of New Jersey. He came over in 1665 and made 
Elizabethtown the seat of government. Some disputes 
broke out between him and prior settlers, who, having 
purchased their land direct from the Indians, refused to 
recognize the right of the Proprietors to collect rent, the 
troubles culminating in 1672 in an insurrection. Car- 
teret was obliged to seek redress in England, and, dur- 
ing his absence, his officers were imprisoned, their es- 
tates confiscated and James Carteret, a dissolute natural 
son of the Governor, prevailed upon to usurp the gov- 
ernment. 

July 30, 1673, war having broken out between England 
and Holland, a Dutch squadron appeared before New 
York, and, in the absence of Governor Lovelace, the 
place surrendered. But the following spring, by treaty 
of peace, New York and New Jersey came again under 
English dominion, and Major Edmund Andross was 
sent over as Governor of New York by the Duke of York. 
As the Governor sought to extend his authority also over 
New Jersey, the people, on Governor Carteret's return 
in 1675, made common cause with him against Andross. 

Early in 1673, Lord Berkeley, having become dissatis- 
fied with the financial returns from his venture in 
colonial lands, sold his interests in New Jersey to two 
Quakers, John Fenwick and Edwin Billynge, and the 
province was, in 1676, divided into East and West 
Jersey, the division line running from the east side of 
Little Egg Harbor straight north to the Delaware. 

Sir George Carteret died in 1679, and soon afterwards 
East Jersey was sold to pay his debts to a " syndicate " 
of twelve. Philip Carteret continued Governor until 
about 1681. Difficulties between the Proprietors and 
those who claimed under direct purchase from the Indians 
were continuous, both in East and West Jersey, and in 
1702 the Proprietors grew so weary of the incessant 
strife, that they surrendered their rights to the Crown. 



XV 

Queen Anne immediately reunited the Jerseys, and 
appointed her kinsman, Edward Hyde, Lord Cornbury, 
Governor of both New York and New Jersey. The 
province was governed from New York until 1738, when 
a commission arrived to Lewis Morris as Governor of 
New Jersey separate from New York. The last of the 
Royal Governors was William Franklin, a natural son of 
Benjamin Franklin. Events in the Revolution which 
took place within the limits of the territory covered by 
this work are related in their proper places in the body 
of the book. 

Indian History. — The aborigines whom the white 
settlers found in New Jersey were a portion of the Dela- 
ware Nation. They were so called by the whites, but 
were known among themselves as the Lenni Lenape 
Nation, and were divided into Unamis or Turtles, Una- 
lachtos or Turkeys, and Minsi or Wolfs — the fiercest of 
the tribes. These last dwelt in Northern New Jersey. 
These tribes were in turn subdivided into families, 
among them the Navesinks, Assanpinks. Matas, Shacka- 
maxons, Chichequaas (Cheesequakes), Raritans, Nanti- 
cokes, Tutelos and Nariticongs. 

There were two Indian paths from the interior to the 
coast which in the early days were used by the whites us 
highways — the Minnisink and Burlington paths. The 
former, starting at Minnisink, on the upper Delaware, 
passed through Sussex, Morris, Union and Middlesex 
Counties, crossed the Raritan by a ford about three miles 
above its mouth, and ran through the village of Middle- 
town to Clay Pit Creek on the Navesink, and thence to 
the mouth of that river. The Burlington path started 
from Crosswicks, at a junction of two paths, respectively 
from Trenton and Burlington; ran to Freehold, whose 
main street is on the old path, and thence toward 
Middletown, near which place it joined the Minnisink 
path. A branch from below Freehold led through Tin- 
ton Falls to Long Branch. Tne only Indian settlements 
whose sites have been identified are that at Crosswicks, 
one not far from the Navesink ford on the Raritan, and 
one at Lake Hopfitcong. The aborigines in the State of 
New Jersey did not at any time after the white discovery 
number over 2,000. 

The government of the province always recognized the 



XVI 

title of the Indians to the lands, and always insisted on 
a fair purchase of lands from them. For this reason 
the white settlers never had trouble with the aborigines. 
In 1758, most of the Indians naving sold their land 
agreed to the extinguishment of most of their titles, ex- 
cept the right to fish in all the rivers and bays south of 
the Raritan, and to hunt on all uninclosed lands. In 
1802 they removed to New Stockbridge, near Oneida 
Lake, N. Y. In 1832 the remnant of the Lenni Lenapes, 
forty in number, were settled at Statesburgh, on Fox 
River, Wis. Believing that they had never parted with 
the right to fish and hunt secured to them in 1758, they 
deputed one of their number, Wilted Grass, known 
among the whites as Bartholomew S. Calvin, who had 
served with credit under Washington, to lay their claim 
before the New Jersey Legislature. This he did in a 
memorial, couched in language simple and pathetic, be- 
ginning: " I am old and weak and poor, and therefore a 
fit representative of my people. You are young and 
strong and rich, and therefore fit representatives of your 
people." The Legislature voted $2,000, the sum asked 
for. Wilted Grass addressed a letter of thanks to the 
Legislature in which the following noteworthy passage 
occurred : 

" Not a drop of our blood have you spilled in battle; 
not an acre of our land have you taken but by our con- 
sent. These facts speak for themselves and need no 
comment. They place the character of New Jersey in 
bold relief and bright example to those States within 
whose territorial limits our brethren still remain. No- 
thing but benisons can fall upon her from the lips of a 
Lenni Lenape.*' 

Transportation. — It may be said that thousands of 
the best citizens of New York are not citizens of that 
city at all. In the morning they flood the business dis- 
tricts of the metropolis; in the evening they ebb away. 
They are citizens of New York, in so far as the city owes 
to their brains and energy a great share of its prosperity ; 
they are not citizens, in that they live and vote elsewhere. 
If this great suburban army of intelligent men lived as 
well as worked in New York, we would probably hear less 
of the necessity of municipal reform, for there would be 
just so much more intelligence among the voting popu- 




Hi O 

F-i <•-' 
O 

^ O 

>* "3 

a 2 



XVII 

latiou — which brings us back to our starting point: that 
of New York's best citizens thousands are, unfortunately 
for it, citizens of New Jersey, Long Island and other 
suburban districts. 

Among the most intelligent and progressive of these 
non-citizen citizens are those who reach the city by the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey — doubtless because of the 
charming and healthful surroundings amid which they 
have chosen their homes, and also because they are con- 
veyed to and from their places of business by a railroad 
which combines the greatest speed consistent with safety 
with the greatest comfort. 

The New York station of the Central Railroad of New 
Jersey is at the foot of Liberty street. The ferry to Jer- 
sey City, known as the "Communipaw Perry," was the 
first legally established ferry between Manhattan Island 
and the Jersey shore. It was erected at the foot of Com- 
munipaw avenue in 1661, William Jansen being licensed 
to take charge of it. Junsen at once endeavored to es- 
tablish a monopoly, claiming that under his license every 
one was obliged to cross in his boat. On the other hand, 
the people claimed that he had violated his license by 
refusing to ferry certain parties. Jansen's answer was 
that he had never refused to ferry those who would pay. 
The Governor and Council neatly solved the problem by 
deciding against both parties — ordering the Sheriff to 
assist Jansen in getting his pay, and threatening Jansen 
with dismissal if he refused to ferry anyone who was 
willing to pay. The ferry was to be in operation Mon- 
days, Wednesdays and Fridays, but for an extra com- 
pensation, ''four guilders in wampum," Jansen was 
obliged to ferry any person at any time. For more than 
a century thereafter there is no record concerning the 
ferry, but it probably continued to be patronized. At 
the close of the Revolution, in 1783, Aaron Longstreet & 
Co. advertised that the ferry would, at 3 P. m., convey 
passengers to Communipaw for the stage for Newark, 
whence they could proceed by "the Excellent New York 
and Philadelphia Running Machines" to Philadelphia 
in one day. When, however, the enemy evacuated Pau- 
lus Hook, the line of travel swerved that way. and the 
Communipaw Perry, falling into disuse, was not revived 
until the Central Railroad of New Jersey was extended 



XV111 

from Elizabethport to Jersey City, the old flat-boat ferry 
being suddenly rehabilitated in all the improvements of 

a century of progress. The act authorizing the exten- 
sion was passed in 1860, and the railroad was opened for 
travel August 1, 1864. 

The ferry being the most southerly of those crossing 
to the New Jersey shore, a finer view of New York Harbor 
is had than from the boats of any other of the Jersey 
railroads. 

At the Jersey City terminus is a depot of the best 
modern construction. Its high clock-tower and gables 
are conspicuous features of the river front. Arched 
corridors lead from the ferry-house to the waiting- 
rooms. The general effect of this room and its access- 
ories is spacious, yet graceful. It is 60 feet from the 
tiled floor to the apex of the roof, held by ornamental 
rafters of iron. A sky-light and the windows provide 
perfect light and ventilation. The walls are of buff 
glazed imported brick; the tiling of the floor is marble. 
The building is lighted by electricity. A stair-case and 
gallery lead to the offices on the second floor. 

On the further right hand corner of the waiting-room 
(entering from the ferry), is a luxuriously furnished 
ladies' parlor, while on the same side, but near the 
entrance from the ferry, is a smoking-room. Among 
the accessories is an excellent restaurant. 

The train-shed boasts one of the finest sky-lights in the 
country. Some idea of the size of the shed may be 
gained from the statement that there are twelve tracks 
which will hold fifteen cars each, or 180 cars might start 
at once and carry away 12,600 people, seated, and another 
2,000 might occupy the aisles and platforms; 190 trains 
arrive at and depart from the station every twenty-four 
hours, and if each one had the full number of cars that 
might stand under the roof of the car-shed there would 
be 2,850 cars come and go everyday, capable of seating 
199,500 passengers every twenty-four hours. 

From this station straightaway an important branch 
runs to Newark. It traverses Bergen Neck through a 
cut, with stations at some of the most pleasant resi- 
dential districts of Jersey City, crosses the Hackensack 
and Passaic and then enters Newark with stations at 
East Perry and Ferry streets (in the heart of the maim- 



XIX 

factoring district) and at Broad street, the last being the 
most central of any railroad station in Newark. From 
Newark a branch runs to Elizabethport, Elizabeth and 
Roselle, connecting at the first-named for the Jersey 
coast and Pine resorts and Freehold, and at the second 
for places on the main line and its connections. The 
trains for the track of the New Jersey Jockey Club 
run part of the distance over the Newark branch 
and the balance over the Newark and Elizabeth 
branch. 

The main line follows the shore of Bergen Neck and 
crosses Newark Bay to Elizabethport, where connection 
is made for Perth Amboy and intermediate stops, for all 
points on the New York and Long Branch Railroad (the 
famous resorts of the Jersey coast and the race-course at 
Monmouth Park); on the Freehold and New York Rail- 
road, and on the Jersey Southern Railroad (Lakewood 
and Atlantic City). 

From Elizabeth the main stem proceeds through a 
series of beautiful and thriving suburban villages and 
towns (lvoselle, Cranford, Westfield, Fanwood, Nether- 
wood, Dunellen) and the city of Plainfield to Bound 
Brook. To this point the road is four-tracked to accom- 
modate the Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington 
express trains run by the Central Railroad of New 
Jersey in connection with the Philadelphia and Reading 
and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroads, and also the 
trains of the Lehigh Valley Railroad, which come in 
near Roselle. Bound Brook is the junction-point for the 
Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington trains. Two 
stations beyond is Somerville, the terminus of the sub- 
urban system and the junction for the South Branch 
Railroad, which runs to Flemington. From Somerville 
the main stem continues through the flourishing manu- 
facturing settlement of Raritan and a number of small 
villages to Phillipsburg, sending at High Bridge a 
branch to Schooley's Mountain, Budd's Lake, Lake 
Hopatcong and a line of rich mines in the Jersey High- 
lands. Then, having crossed the Delaware, the railroad 
reaches the rich coal and iron fields of Pennsylvania via 
Baston, Bethlehem and Allentown to Scranton. 

Churches — Methodist- Episcopal. — There are one or 
more Methodist-Episcopal Churches or congregations in 



every place along the route of the main stem of the Cen- 
tral Railroad of New Jersey and its branches. 

Protestant-Episcopal. — Bayonne, Bergen Point, Bound 
Brook, Cranford, Dover, Dunellen, Elizabeth, Fleming- 
ton, Greenville, Newark, Phillipsburg, Plainfield, Ro- 
selle, Somerville. 

Presbyterian. — Bayonne, Bloomsbury, Bound Brook, 
Chester, Cranford, Dover, Dunellen, Elizabeth, Flem- 
ington, German Valley, Lafayette, Newark, Phillips- 
burg, Plainfield, Rockaway, Roselle, Schooley's Moun- 
tain, Westfield. 

Congregational. — Bound Brook, Chester, Elizabeth, 
Newark, Plainfield, Westfield. 

Baptist. — Bayonne, Cranford, Drakesville, Elizabeth, 
Flemington, Lafayette, Newark, Plainfield. Westfield. 

Reformed. — Annandale, Bayonne, Bergen Point, 
Bound Brook, Greenville, High Bridge, Lafayette, Leb- 
anon, Minnisink, Newark, North Branch, Plainfield, 
Raritan, Rockaway, Somerville. 

Lutheran. — German Valley, Glen Gardner, Newark, 
Phillipsburg. 

United Presbyterian. — Bloomington, Newark. 

TJjiiversalist. — Newark. 

Seventh-Day Baptist. — Dunellen. 

Roman Catholic. — Annandale, Bergen Point, Blooms- 
bury, Bound Brook, Chester, Cranford, Dover, Dun- 
ellen, Elizabeth, Flemington, High Bridge, Hurd Junc- 
tion, Lake Hopatcong, Lebanon, Newark, Neshanic, 
North Branch, Plainfield, Phillipsburg, Raritan, Rock- 
away, Scofield Mine, Somerville, Westfield, White House. 

Amusements and Sport. — In nearly all the places in 
the suburban system of the Central Railroad of New 
Jersey are tennis, base-ball, bowling, bicycling and ath- 
letic clubs. Among these the New Jersey Athletic Club, 
with grounds at Bergen Point, is known far beyond the 
limits of its location and even of the State ; and the 
Cresents, of Plainfield, stand high among base-ball clubs. 
The Argonautas, of Bergen Point, and the Tritons, 
of Newark, enjoy more than local reputation among 
rowing associations. The lay of the land throughout 
the whole suburban system is highly favorable to bicyc- 
ling and to driving and riding. The roads are level 
and hard and kept in admirable repair. Special rates 



XXI 

of carriage hire wiU be found under various places de- 
scribed below. The general rate is from $1.00 per hour 
for single, and from $2.00 per hour for double teams. 

The principal summer sport is fishing. The black bass 
of Lake Hopatcong are famous for size and gameness. 
The same species can be caught at Branch Mills, easily 
reached from Elizabeth, Roselle, Cranford, Westfield 
and Fanwood; in the pond at New Market, not far from 
Netherwood, Plainfield and Dunellen; in the Raritan, 
near Bound Brook, Somerville and Raritan; and at 
Budd's Lake, Morris Pond and Green Pond. Fine 
trout are caught in the North Branch of the Rari- 
tan, especially at Naughright, and a good trout stream 
comes down the mountain at Flanders. With stocking 
and careful enforcement of the game laws, all the brooks 
on Schooley's Mountain could again become what they 
once were — noted trout streams. Pickerel of course 
abound in all the lakes, those of Green Pond being es- 
pecially noted for their size. 

Quails, partridges and woodcock abound through the 
mountains. Woodport and Budd's Lake are sporting 
headquarters in season. In the early fall many fresh- 
water ducks congregate at Budd's Lake. There is ex- 
cellent shooting for plover and doves at Bound Brook. 
Guides with dogs can be hired for from $1.50 a day up- 
wards. 

Industries. — Jersey City. — Terminal point. Loca- 
tion of docks for shipments of heavy freight in car lots — 
Pig Iron. Anthracite Coal, Bituminous Coal, etc., etc. 
Port Liberty. — An adjunct to Jersey City. Shipping 
port for Anthracite and Bituminous Coal. Jersey City, 
Henderson Street. — Local delivery and shipping point 
for Jersey City proper. Sugar Refinery. 

Newark Branch: Lafayette. — Zinc Works. Radiator 
Works. Stoves and Furnaces. Green-house Plant. West 
Bergen. — Steel Works. Chemical Works. Fire-works 
Manufactory. Horticultural Builders. Newark. — Brass 
Goods. Fourteen Breweries. Brewers' Supplies. Brick. 
Carriages and Carriage Ornaments. Acids. Corsets. 
Curled Hair. Pins. Thirteen Leather Manufactories. 
Four Paper Box Manufactories. Cement. Celluloid 
Goods. Harness Trimmings. Bottles. Oil. Filterers. 
Steel and Iron. Varnish. Zinc Oxide. Wagon Springs. 



XX11 

Corliss Engines and Machinery. Three large Fertilizer 
and Bone Black Mann factories. Barrels. Furniture. 
Bic cles. Binder Boards. Blue Stone Works. Boilers. 
Boots and Shoes. Manufacturers' Supplies. Wooden 
Boxes. Printing Presses. Sash and Blinds. Thread. 
Tinware. Tobacco. Tools. Water Motors. Hard- 
ware. Cigars. Maccaroni. 

Main Stem : Claremont. — Oil Refinery. National 
Storage Co. Pamrapo. — Stove Foundry. Centre' 
vide. — Paint Works. Silk Mills. Constable Hook 
(reached by spur from Centreville). — Immense Oil 
Refineries. Chemical Works. Copper Works. Port 
Johnson (reached by spur from Bergen Point). — 
Shipping port for Anthracite Coal. ElizdbethporL — 
Copper Works. Chemical Works. Fertilizer Works. 
Oil Works. Machinery and Castings. Stoves. Cord- 
age. Rope and Binders' Twine. Building Paper. Build- 
ing Felt. Furnaces. Machinery. Shafting and Pul- 
leys. Singer Sewing Machine Co. Oil Cloth. Street 
Car Motors. Shear Works. Elizabeth. — Oil. Grease. 
("rockery. Rubber Goods. Sash, Blinds and Doors. 
Hats. Canned Goods. Two Breweries. Cranford. — 
Folding Mats. Fanivood. — Furs. Binder Boards. 
Plainfield. — Location of the Pond Machine Tool Co., 
Manufacturers of Railroad Tools. Two Printing Press 
Manufactories. Carpets. Oil Cloth and Clothing. 
Flour. Prepared Flour. Dufiellen. — Clothing. Bound 
Brook. — Woolen Mills. Lubricating Oil. Hose. Paint. 
Compressed Air Pumps. Car Heating Apparatus. Fin- 
derne. — Horses. Somerville. — Building Brick. Clothing. 
Packed Pork. Rariian. — Raritan Woolen Mills. Cloth 
Mills. Foundry Forges and Machinery. Agricultural 
Implements. North Branch. — Milk. Live Stock. Ag- 
ricultural Products. White House. — Peach Baskets. 
Milk. Live Stock. Agricultural Products. Lebanon. — 
Milk. Live Stock. Agricultural Products. Annan- 
dale. — Milk. Livestock. Agricultural Products. High 
Bridge. — Milk. Live Stock. Agricultural Products. 
Iron Ore. Car Wheels, and Axles and Forgings. Glen 
Gardner. — Parchment Paper. New Hampton Junction. 
— Agricultural Products. New Hampton. — Agricultural 
Products. Asbury. — Agricultural Products. Flour and 
Feed. Valley. — Agricultural Products. Iron Orc f 



XXII 1 



Springtown. — Agricultural Products. Flour and Feed. 
Phittipaburg. — Cast Iron Pipe. Clay and Pulp. Pig 
Iron, Stoves, Sheet Iron, Bar Iron, etc. Stand Pipe. 

The agricultural district extends from Raritan to 
Springtown, inclusive. Daily shipments of milk, par- 
ticularly, are very large, and during the peach season 
shipments of this fruit are also very heavy. 

South Branch (Somerville to Flemmgton). — Milk and 
Agricultural Products. 

High Bridge Branch : Califon. — Granite. Lime. 
Peaches. Vernoy. — Lime. Middle Valley. — Cream- 
eries. German Valley. — Granite. Lime. Chester. — 
Iron Works. Peaches. Hacklebamey . — Iron Works. 
Bartley. — Turbine Wheels. Creameries. Flanders. — 
Fire Sand. Gary's. — Fire Sand. Kenvil. — Dynamite. 
Lake Hopatcong. — Ice. Ogden Jline Railroad. — 
Iron Ore. Port Oram. — Iron Ore. Silk Mill. Dover. 
— Mining Machinery. Silk Mills. Iiockaway. — Iron 
Foundry. Rock Crushers. Knitting Mills. 

Hotels. — Key : Italics mean that, in the author's 
opinion, the hotel is first-class; ordinary type means 
that it is second-class; a dagger (f) means that the hotel 
is very good of its class. The rates quoted are per day. 

Annandale: Annandale Hotel, $1.50. Asbury: Amer- 
ican House, $1.50. Bayonne: Bayonne Hotel, $1.50; 
Riverside Hotel, $1.50. Bergen Point: La Tourette 
House, $2.00-$3. 00. Bloomsbury: Bloomsbury Hotel, 
$1.50. Bound Brook: Fisher's IIotel,f $1.50; Hotel 
Gaddis, $2.00. Budd's Lake: Forest House, $2.50- 
$3.00. Califon: Union House, $1.50. Chester: Ches- 
ter Hotel, $1.50. Clinton (near Annandale): Union 
Hotel, $2.00. Cranford: Cranford Hotel, $1.50. 
Denmark Lake: Merritt Park House, f $2.00-$2.50. 
Dover: Jolley's Hotel,f $2.00 (a noted old-fashioned 
hostelry); Park House. $2.00; Mansion House, $1.50. 
Drakesville : Drakesville Hotel, $1.50. Dunellen : Tay- 
lor's Hotel, $1.50. Elizabeth: Sheridan House, $2.00. 
Flanders: Flanders Hotel, $2.00. Flemington: County 
Hotel, $2.00; Union Hotel, $2.00. German Valley: 
German Valley Hotel, $1.75. Glen Gardner: Glen 
Gardner Hotel, $2.00. High Bridge: American, $1.00. 
Lake Hopatcong: Hotel Breslin,\ $4.00-$5.00; Lake 
View House, "$2.00 per day, $12.00-$14.00 per week; 



XXIV 

American House, $2.00 per day, $12.00-$14. 00 per week: 
Nolan's Point Villa,f $2.00 per day, $12.00-$14.00 
per week (within 1 minute of Lake Hopatcong Sta- 
tion). Minnisink: (See Lake Hopatcong). Netherwood: 
Hotel Netherwood. Newark: Continental, $2.00-$3.00; 
Park Hotel, $2.00-3.00. North Branch: North Branch 
Hotel, $1.50. Pamrapo: Bayswater. $1.50-$2.00. Phil- 
lipsburg: Central Hotel, $1.50-$2. 00; Columbia House, 
$1.50. Platnfield: City Hotel, $2.00; Force's Hotel, 
$2.00: Laing's Hotel, $2.00. Port Oram: Port Oram 
Hotel, $1.00. Raritan: Raritan Hotel, $2.00. Rock- 
away: Rockaway Hotel, $2.00; Central House, $1.00. 
Roselle: Van Court (building — to be ready March, 
1890). Schooley's Mountain: Heath House, f $2.50; 
Dorincourt,f $3.00-$4.00. Somerville: County House, 
$2.00; Ten Eyck House, $2.00; Commercial, $2.00. 
Valley: West Portal, $1.00. Westfield: Westfield 
House, $2.00. 






; 



£ 

X 

Eft 

01 J 

7. 



OZEDHXTTZR-^-Hl. 



ooiLvsip^/Lxrsr o"E^ -lntie^w cnz]:Rj=$:Ersr. 



COMMUTATION RAXES. 



NEW VOUK 



1st 
Mo. 



2d 

Mo. 



B 



I'omniunipaw 

Lafayette I .* 

Arlington Ave 
Jackson Ave. 
West Bergen. 
Newark ... . 

Claiiinoiit 

Qreenvllle . 

Pamrapo 

Bayoune 

Centrevllle 

Bergen Point 

Ellzabethport 



Elizabeth. 

El Mora . 
Rosalie . . 
Cranford 
Westneld . 
Fanwood ... 
Netberwood 
I'lainfield .... 

Grant Ave... 

Kvona 

Dunellen — 
Bound Brook 
Flnderne 
gomervllle . 

Rloefleld 

Flagtown .... 
Neenanlo 
Woodfern . .. 
Three Bridges 
Flemlngton.. 

Rarltan 

North Branch 

While House . 

Lebanon .... 
Annandale . . . 
High Bridge... 
Glen Gardner. 
Junction 

Asbury 

Valley 

Bloomsbury .. 
Springtown . 
Philllpsburg.. 
Eaaton 



6 00 
6 00 
800 
(i 00 



ill 2! 

is nil 

tit se 

:>0 sc 

21 00 

22 mi 
•i-i ho 



8d 

Mo. 



4th 
Mo. 



$5 35 $4 HI 



Mb 

Mo. 



mil 
Ho. 



rth 

Mo. 



Long 



Term Pay 
in <■ hi - - 



TKIP TICKETS. 



SCHOOL RAXES. 



12 
Moa 




HIGH BRIDGE BRANCH. 



SI.Rle Fare. 



69 (17 


OS IKI 


66 '«i 


71 84 


68 00 


71 00 


68 00 


; t (in 1 


68 00 


;\ 00 


68 ("i 


71 mi 


57 34 


62 00 


62 67 


68 00 


lis in 


74 00 


72 61 


79 84 


72 c>; 


79 84 


78 8 


80 in 


77 8 


HI 67 


77 8 


si i,; 



68 -'11 
68 84 
en 00 
68 84 
68 6 
i,i. 6 

73 84 

70 (17 
B0 iki 

SI I («l 

so 00 

Sll mi 



68 61 

HO (Kl 

07 

Sti (17 

sn m 

98 84 
98 84 



CaUfon 

Vernoy 

Middle Valley 

Qerman Valley (Sobooley'i 
Mountain) 

Naugbrlght 

Plandera (.Budd'8 Lake) 

Can's 

Drakesvllle 

Kenvil 

Hopatoong Junction 

Port dram 

Dover 

Rookaw i\ 

Morns Co. Junction, 

Minnisink 

Lake Bopatcong 

Hurd 

Weldon 

Pord 
Ogdeo ., 



Cliester 
Chester Furnace 



$1 GO 
1 69 

1 7H 

l 78 

i so 
l 86 

1 '.HI 

l 96 

i '.>:> 

9 id 

•-• 20 



B hi 

X' oo 



1 ■ M-iirsiiiy. 



Single Kara. I Excursion. 



jo 19 
16 



96 

IS 

ii 



1 HO 

1 »" 



$'i 45 

8 n 

9 45 

9 i.'. 
9 00 
9 68 

a 75 

•J HO 

•J H5 
•i oo 
B OQ 
8 06 
3 10 
:i 93 
8 mi 
3 00 

a oo 

3 16 

8 80 

3 56 



9 00 

a oi 



XXV 



REAL ESTATE VALUES, HOUSE RENT AND BOARD. 

(Prices given are in all cases for desirable plots, and in " House 
Rent" column for well built, modern houses, with all improve- 
ments, and desirably located.) 





Building 


Factory Sites 




House Rent 




Lots. 


per acre. 


f£~ 5 


per annum. 


Newark 


$500 to S3, 000 


$2,000 and up. 




$300 and up. 


Jersev City . . 


500 and up. 


1 






Lafayette 


500 








Arlington Av. 


500 








Jackson Ave. 
West Bergen. 


500 
250 


j- 2,000 




300 


Coram unip'w 


500 








Claremont.. . . 




J 






Greenville . . . 


250 




Pamrapo 


1 








Bayonne . . 
Centreville.. . 


!- 250 


2,000 




250 


Bergen Point. 


) 








Elizabethpo't 
Spring St 


|- 500 


2,000 




200 




1 000 " 






) 


El Mora.. .. 


200 


2.000 




- 300 


Roselle 


000 


2,000 




i 


Cranf ord 


200 


1,000 


$500 


[- 250 


Westfield ... 


200 


1,000 


500 


Fanwood 


300 to 1,500 


500 


300 


300 


Netherwood . 


30.»to 1,000 


500 






Plainfieid 


3"0andup. 


3,0o0 




300 


Grant Ave 


250 


2.000 




[ 200 


Evona 


200 


2,000 




Dunellen 


200 






i 


Bound Brook. 


250 






- 150 


Finderne 










Somerville . . . 


250 






250 


Raritau 


200 

1 






150 


North Branch 








White House. 










Lebanon 










Annandale. . . 










High Bridge.. 






( 200 


) 


Glen Gardner 


!- 150 


200 


- and 


Y 150 


Junction .... 






( up. 


S 


Asbuiy 










Valley 










Bloomsbury.. 


1 








Springtown .. 


J 








Phillipsburg.. 
Lake Hopat- 


500 " 






250 










cong 


500 to 3,090 















Board is from $10.00 a week upwards from Jersey City to 
Somerville ; beyond that point and along the High Bridge 
branch, from $8^00 a week upwards. 



CHAPTER I. 

NEWARK 



Trie Newark branch of the Central Railroad of New 
Jersey leaves the main stem at Communipaw and cuts 
through the ridge of trap rock, which forms the high 
ground of Bergen Neck, with stations at Lafayette, 
Arlington avenue, Jackson avenue and West Bergen ; 
crosses the Morris Canal, the Hackensack and the Pas- 
saic rivers, and then speeds over the meadows to Newark, 
stopping at East Ferry street, Ferry street and Broad 
street, opposite the City Hall, the most central railroad 
station in Newark. The Broad street cars pass the door, 
and from Market street at the next corner to the North, 
other lines may be taken (see p. 17). From Newark the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey runs a branch via Eliz- 
abethport to Elizabeth, connecting at Elizabethport for 
all points on the New York & Long Branch Railroad, 
the Jersey Southern Railroad, the Freehold & New York 
Railroad and the Atlantic Highlands Railroad, and at 
Elizabeth for points on the main line, for Philadelphia, 
intermediate points on the Philadelphia & Reading Rail- 
road, and for Baltimore, Washington and the West, via 
the Baltimore & Ohio 

Newark with its population of 170,000, its vast in- 
dustrial interests, which make it the ninth manufactur- 
ing centre of the country, its broad avenues, fine 
residential streets and, above all, its modern, progressive 
spirit, is the most important suburb reached by the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey. Its history well illus- 
trates Emerson's remark to the effect that you find as 



2 

many heroes in the counting-house as on the battle-field. 
For the story of Newark is one of adventure in the 
founding and developing of useful arts. 

Industries. — Industrial history when followed closely 
year by year makes pretty dry reading; but, when sur- 
veyed by epochs — read with the aid of glasses which bring 
perhaps twenty-five years into one focus — it presents 
astonishing and even romantic statistics. Newark's in- 
dustrial records extend back almost to the date of its 
founding. Its people seem to have taken as naturally to 
manufacturing as ducks to water. Leather was made 
in Newark already in 1676, for the town records show 
the appointment of a sealer of leather. In 1683 
Newark cider was as famous as Jersey apple-jack is 
now, Deputy Gov. Thomas Rudyard writing to a friend 
in London, that ''at a place called Newark is made 
great quantities of Cyder exceeding any we can have 
from New England or Rhod Island or Long Island." 
In 1721 free-stone quarrying had become quite an in- 
dustry. From then until the Revolution, Newark's 
progress was slow, but steady. After the Revolution its 
manufactories began to attract attention elsewhere. 
This was especially the case with shoe-making, which 
had naturally followed closely in the wake of tanning. 
In fact a tanner, Moses N. Combs, was the first shoe 
manufacturer on an extensive scale for export. This 
Combs was a character. He tanned souls as well as sole- 
leather; for he was a clergyman, and, for a while, being 
dissatisfied with the strict orthodox form of worship at 
the First Presbyterian Church he established a separate 
congregation. 

By 1806 shoe-making had become so important an in- 
dustry in Newark that, in a map of the town published 
that year, the figure of a shoe-maker at work was 
engraved in the emblematic design over a tew descriptive 




MORRIS CANAL— NEWARK. 



sentences, one of which says the town " is noted for its 
Cider, the making of carriages of all sorts, coach lace, 
men's and women's shoes. In the manufacture of this 
last article, one-third of the inhabitants are constantly 
employed." Carriage-making was then and is still one 
of Newark's most important industries. 

The first establishment in the United States for the 
exclusive manufacture of jewelry was founded in 
Newark in 1801. The first iron foundry was established 
prior to 1810 — the exact year cannot be determined — 
in Washington street, on the site now occupied by 
the Second Presbyterian church. Hatting and chair- 
making also flourished. In fact, already in the early 
part of this century, Newark was a lively manufacturing 
centre. A statement based upon the census returns of 
1810 shows the value of articles manufactured in Essex 
Co. to have been $1,169,871, in which amount the 
boots, shoes and slippers made an item of $400,000. In 
1834 Newark was made a port of entry, and in 1835 the 
imports were $2,500,000 and the exports $8,000,000. 
The first Collector of the Port was Archer Gilford, who 
kept the Gifford Tavern, quite a noted hostelry, 
especially among sportsmen. A fox-hunting scene was 
painted on the sign-board, and here the fox hunters were 
wont to gather after they had given Reynard a chase 
over the meadows. 

In 1830 a local committee made a careful canvass of 
Newark's manufacturing industries, and in their report 
mention is made of two breweries. The beer-brewing 
industry, which has now attained enormous proportions 
in Newark, was then just starting in a small way. Sub- 
ject, of course, to temporary checks, the industries of 
Newark have steadily developed. According to the last 
census (1880) there were 1,291 manufacturing establish- 
ments in Newark with a capital of $31,055,565, produc- 



4 

ing articles valued at $60,985,766, and employing 41,510 
hands at a cost in wages of $14,784,388. According to 
Holbrookes Directory for 1889, there are now in Newark __ 
about 1,650 manufacturing establishments. Among 
these are 26 breweries, 49 makers of carriages and 
appurtenances, 5 thread works, one of which employs 
over 8,000 operatives, 87 clothing manufacturers, 21 
boot and shoe factories, 23 brass foundries, 22 button 
factories, 50 hat manufacturers, 22 iron founders, 63 
leather manufacturers and dealers, 2 macaroni factories, 
111 segar manufacturers, 6 fertilizer works, 6 smelters 
and 10 tanners. The figures quoted give briefly but 
eloquently the history of Newark's industrial progress. 

Now, a resident of Newark can clothe himself from 
head to foot in Newark-made garments, sewed with 
Newark-made thread; sit on a chair made in Newark, at 
a table made in Newark, spread with a cloth made in 
Newark and set with Newark-made china, glass and 
cutlery ; and eat, with a fork made in Newark, vegetables 
grown under the stimulating influence of Newark fertili- 
zers; smoke, after dinner, a cigar rolled in Newark, over a 
bottle of Newark-brewed beer; and, in his last moments, 
contemplate calmly the approach of death, because he 
knows that he will be borne to his grave in a Newark- 
made hearse, followed by Newark-made carriages, and 
buried in a grave dug with a Newark-made spade. 

As an illustration of how thoroughly the soul of 
Newark is absorbed in manufactories, the following con- 
versation, overheard at the sea shore last summer, may 
be quoted: 

Mr. Beau. — "Are you acquainted with Scott's works, 
Miss Belle?" 

Miss Belle (of Newark). — " Why, no! I never heard of 
them; are they on the Passaic ?" 

Of course the growth of Newark's population has been 





•H 
.Li 

; 1 





-i: 



M£J IW, 



i 



> r/raw 







commensurate with the expansion of its industrial inter- 
ests. Following is part of the striking record: 
1826... 8,017 1848... 30,000 1880. . .126,000 
1830... 10,995 1860... 71,941 1885. . .152,988 
1837... 20,079 1870. . .105,542 1889. . .170,000 

SOCIAL HISTORY.— The social history of Newark- 
is quite as interesting as its industrial record, especially 
to any one who can get beneath the facts at the 
philosophy. Newark began as an hierarchy as com- 
plete as any which flourished in Biblical days. Its 
founders were New England Congregationalists, and 
they early resolved that "none be admitted freemen or 
free Burgesses within our Town upon Passaick River 
* * * but such planters as are members of some or 
other of the Congregational churches." The pastor of 
the Congregational Church (afterwards the First Presby- 
terian or "Old First" Church) was chosen and paid by 
the town, and the church building was the public 
meeting-house. The early history of this church and 
the early history of Newark are, therefore, identical. 
The town continued to be thus governed until about 
1720, when, the first settlers having died or ceased to 
have a controlling influence in public affairs, the reli- 
gious tests of citizenship were abandoned. 

Settlement. — Newark was settled about the middle 
of May, 1666, by Puritans from Milford, New Haven 
and Branford, Conn. The initial step was taken in 
1061, the restoration of Charles II having aroused a 
fear in some of the colonists that their liberty of con- 
science would be interfered with. Through a committee, 
of which Robert Treat was the head, negotiations were 
opened with Governor Stuyvesant, but. before the Con- 
necticut colonists decided to emigrate, England had 
possessed herself of the New Netherlands, and it was 
under Carteret's administration 1 hat Newark was set t led, 
its founders purchasing their title direct from the In- 
dians. Tradition has it that the first of the little band 



6 

of New Englanders to set foot on Newark soil was 
Elizabeth Swaine, a fail' Puritan maiden of eighteen 
summers, whose lover, Josiah Ward, gallantly secured 
her this honor. Elizabeth must have been an engaging 
young person, for that she was wooed at least twice is a 
matter of historical record. Josiah Ward was her first 
successful suitor, and to him she was married. After his 
death she married David Ogden, and their son, Josiah 
Ogden, became the founder of the first Episcopal church 
in Newark (p. 9). 

The cost of the territory purchased by the settlers, 
which included the greater part of what is now Essex 
Co., was equal to about $750; the consideration being 
" 50 double hands of powder, 100 bars of lead, 20 axes, 
20 coates, 10 guns, 20 pistols, 10 swords, 10 kettles, 4 
blankets, 4 barrels of beer, 2 pair of breeathes, 50 knives, 
20 hoes, 850 fathoms of wampum, 2 ankers of liquor 
(say 32 gallons), or something equivalent, and three 
troopers' coates." 

Robert Treat, the leader of the settlers, and who may 
justly be regarded as the founder of Newark, was an in- 
teresting figure in our colonial history. He was both a 
good civilian and a good fighter; a man who could pre- 
side at legislative councils and pick off a hostile savage 
with his rifle with equal judgment. Treat was born in 
England. We hear of him in Milford as early as 1640. 
At the battle of Bloody Brook he " made no less than 17 
fair shots at the enemy, and was thereby as often a mark 
for them." When Sir Edmund Andros attempted to 
wrest Connecticut's charter from her Governor, Treat 
presided in the Assembly chamber, and it is believed to 
have been at his suggestion that the lights were suddenly 
extinguished, so that Capt. Wadsworth was enabled to 
slip out and secrete the precious document in the 
Charter Oak. But, though brave in the presence of the 
enemy, he is said to have been extremely bashful with 
members of the gentler sex, and it is related that 
his first wife, Jane Taff, was obliged to lead him up to a 
proposal of marriage by observing, as he was dancing 
heron his knee (which was "permissable by their dis- 
parity of age and long intimacy ") : " Robert, be still that ; 
I had rather be Treatted than trotted! " Treat remained 
in Newark only some six years. The " Old First " church 
stands upon a portion of his "home lotte." 



The name Newark is derived from New-Worke, for 
thus the settlement was called by Treat and others of 
his associates. The present name was substituted by 
Rev. Abraham Pierson, the first pastor of the new 
town, a native of Newark-ou-Trent; this place also, it 
may be interesting to note, derived its name from ''New- 
Work." Newark-on-Trent, 773 years old, has 14,000 
inhabitants; Newark on the Passaic, only in the begin- 
ning of its third century, lias a population of 170,000. 

At the time of the original settlement, and for many 
years afterwards, wolves and bears were so numerous in 
the neighborhood of Newark that the town offered pre- 
miums for killing them, and one of the settlers added 
considerably to his possessions by establishing a wolf-pit. 

The "Old First."— The First Presbyterian Church 
of Newark, whose early history and that of Newark go 
hand in hand, may be said to have ante-dated even 
Newark itself, and to be the oldest English congregation 
in the State, though the first church structure in New 
Jersey was the Dutch Reformed of Bergen. 

The "Old First" existed as a congregation already 
in Branford. Conn., in 1644, whence, in 1666, it was 
simply translated to Newark, where, in 1668, a place of 
worship was erected. The site was on the west side of 
Broad street, nearly opposite the present structure. In 
1675, it served also as a public house of refuge, the in- 
habitants, alarmed at the Indian atrocities in New Eng- 
land, fearing an attack from the Hackensack natives. 
The "meeting house " was fortified and flanked with pali- 
sades. But the fears were groundless, the fairness of the 
settlers toward the Indians, in purchasing the land of 
them, proving on this occasion, as well as in the future, 
a guarantee of peace. There is no record of any dis- 
turbance between the people of Newark and the Indians. 

Nothing, perhaps, illustrates better the spirit of fair- 
ness which governed the people of Newark in their deal- 
ings with others than the manner in which the boundary 
line between Newark and Elizabeth wis settled. Wor^ 
thies from both towns met on what has since been known 
as Divident Hill, near Bound Creek, and the proceedings 
opened and closed with prayer; the agreement being 
reached amicably and solemnly. They were ^ust, but 
not weak; for they exacted with quiet dignity for them- 
selves the justice which they meted out to others. When 



Sir Edmund Andros sought to wrest New Jersey from 
Carteret, and issued a proclamation to that effect, New- 
ark replied calmly but firmly: "The Town being met 
together, give their positive answer to the Governor of 
York's writ, that they have taken the oath of allegiance 
to the King, and fidelity to the present Government, and 
until we have sufficient order from his Majesty we will 
stand by the same." 

The first pastor of the "Old First" Church was Rev. 
Abraham Pierson, of Nottinghamshire, England, and a 
graduate of Cambridge. He had ministered in Bran- 
ford some 23 years before he removed to Newark with 
the Branford settlers, in the fall of 1666. fie was a 
zealous Indian missionary, acquiring during his labors a 
sufficient knowledge of the language of those among 
whom he worked to compile a catechism in their tongue. 
This work was printed in 1660. He died in Newark, Au- 
gust 9, 1678. his son Abraham, who had been his assist- 
ant since 1672, succeeding him. The younger Pierson 
seems to have been popular, for he is described as "a 
fleshy, well-favoured and comely-looking man." In 
1692, he severed his connection with the church, because 
he preferred a moderate Presbyterianism to the strict 
Congregationalism in which he was required to minister, 
and returned to Connecticut. When Yale College was 
founded, in 1701, he was chosen its first Rector or Presi- 
dent, and was held in such esteem that the college was 
temporarily established at Killingworth, where he was 
pastor, to suit his convenience, and because of the love 
which his flock bore him. 

He was succeeded in Newark by Rev. John Prudden. 
Meanwhile, somewhat of a change had come over the 
spirit in which the affairs of the town were adminis- 
tered. It was no longer a strictly ecclesiastical govern- 
ment, and the Congregational tests of citizenship were 
not so strictly enforced. Nearly all the original settlers 
were dead. Mr. Prudden himself seems to have been 
opposed to the mingling of politics and religion, and, 
during his seven years pastorate, the ecclesiastical spirit 
was probably still more eliminated from the administra- 
tion of public affairs. With the appointment of his 
successor, Rev. Jabez Wakeman, the separation became 
more clearly defined, for the expense of his maintenance 
was not provided by a levy on the town, as in the case of 



9 

kis predecessors, but by voluntary subscription. Wake- 
man died in 1704, shortly after completing the fifth 
year of his pastorate, and for a period of five or six 
years following there was no regular pastor. Finally, 
an emissary was dispatched to Connecticut, the ''great 
clerical hive," where he secured Rev. Nathaniel Bowers, 
who was pastor for six years, until his death in 1716. 
During his pastorate, probably about 1715, a new church 
building of stone, 40 feet square, with a steeple and bell, 
was erected a little to the north of the first meeting house. 

A Mr. Buckingham succeeded Bowers for a short time, 
and then Rev. Joseph Webb was ordained by the Pres- 
bytery of Philadelphia, October 22, 1719. His Presbyte- 
rian ordination was an important incident in the history 
of Newark, for it marked a further drifting away from the 
original Congregational theory of town and church gov- 
ernment. The character of the population had been 
somewhat changed by Scotch and Dutch accessions. In 
1727, we learn of a Dutch church organization in New- 
ark — the town whi h had in 1666 limited citizenship to 
Congregationalists — and it is thought that Episcopal 
services were held there as early as 1729. The first 
Episcopal Church of Newark — Trinity — was founded, as 
a result of a quarrel between Col. Josiah Ogden and 
the First Presbyterian Church. About the fall of 1733, 
he shocked the staid members of the Presbyterian con- 
gregation, of which he himself was a member, by har- 
vesting his wheat on Sunday, in order to save it from 
the rain. The result was a bitter controversy, which 
ended in a schism, Col. Ogden and a number of his 
friends withdrawing from the "Old First" Church and 
founding Trinity. 

The history of the " Old First " and of Newark now 
brings us to two characters, < ne of whom at least 
played a conspicuous part in the military history of the 
Revolution and in the civil history of the new-born 
republic. These are Aaron Burr and his son and name- 
sake; the former a man of intellectual poise, dignity of 
bearing and weight of character; the latter inheriting 
his father's mental gifts, but uniting with them a 
passionate temperament which caused them to be mis- 
applied, and made him, while one of the mo.-t brilliant 
and fascinating figures in American history, also one of 
the most contemned. 



10 

Rev. Aaron Burr was the seventh pastor of the First 
Presbyterian Church. He preached there when but 19 
years old. During his pastorate he devoted much thought 
and energy to educational matters, and he was largely 
"instrumental in founding the College of New Jersey 
(Princeton). In May, 1744, David Brainerd, the Indian 
missionary, was ordained in the " Old First." For a 
trifling indiscretion he had been expelled from Yale 
College and, although backed by Burr and other promi- 
nent divines, he was not restored. This and his subse- 
quent ordination in Newark led .to a synodical separation, 
which resulted in the establishment of the College of 
New Jersey as a rival to Yale. It was founded by con- 
verting Rev. Jonathan Dickinson's classical school at 
Elizabeth Town into a college. But when, soon after 
the opening of the college (May, 1747), Dickinson died, 
the students were placed under the care of Aaron Bun-, 
at Newark, who, in November the year following, was 
elected President. The college remained in Newark 
eight years, when it was moved to Princeton (1756), 
where Burr died a year later. He had resigned his 
pastorate in 1755 in order to give his whole time to the 
affairs of the college. During his ministry a complete 
separation of his church from the town government was 
effected, a distinct act of incorporation being secured 
for the church. 

During the early years of Burr's pastorate two riots 
occurred in Newark. They grew out of the claims of 
the English Proprietors that they and their predecessors 
alone could give legal titles, whereas the descendants of 
the settlers maintained that they had secured valid 
titles from the Indians themselves direct. The rioters 
twice broke open the gaol and liberated those who 
had been confined therein at the instance of the Pro- 
prietors, but there does not appear to have been any 
bloodshed. 

Aaron Burr, the second, was born in Newark, Feb- 
ruary 6, 1756, in the parsonage, a fine stone mansion on 
the west side of Broad street, 34 feet south of what is 
now the southwest corner of William. In the yard 
stood four large trees which, when the house was torn 
down in 1835, were transplanted to Broad street, south 
of Pennington, where they are now flourishing. To 
this house, Aaron Burr, the elder, being very popular, 







— ^^_Mi-^:^ 




s I*. 

4^ 






THE "OLD FIRST"— 1668, 




SECOND AND PRESENT BUILDING. 

("Old First") 



11 

came many of the young people of Newark and its 
vicinity that they might have the nuptial knot tied by 
the famous divine, and it is probable that in no other 
house in New Jersey at that time were so many people 
made happy — or miserable. Aaron Burr, the second, 
was not sufficiently identified with Newark to render a 
detailed account of his career necessary. His elevation 
to the Vice-Presidency, his intrigue against Jefferson, 
the Blennerhassett incident, his duel with Hamilton, are 
matters well known to all who are acquainted with our 
national history. 

After Aaron, the elder, removed to Princeton, Rev. 
John Brainerd, a brother of the Indian missionary, be- 
came pastor of the First Church. His successor in 1759 
was Rev. Alexander Macwhorter, who had graduated at 
Princeton and completed his studies at Freehold under 
the famous William Tennent. Dr. Macwhorter was an 
earnest patriot and was obliged to flee when the British 
entered Newark. They looted the parsonage, destroying 
many valuable church records. He became a chaplain 
in Washington's army and participated in the council 
of war which decided upon the memorable crossing of 
the Delaware. 

Before the Revolution already it had been decided to 
erect a new chfrrch edifice. Trenches for the founda- 
tions had been dug and metal for the bell collected. 
When the war broke out the metal was carted to what 
is now known as Maple Island and buried. In Septem- 
ber, 1787, the foundations of the present edifice were 
commenced, and January 1, 1791, the church was 
dedicated. In the tower, just over the entrance, a 
tablet was inserted bearing this inscription attributed to 
William Peartree Smith, then treasurer of the society: 

Aedem hanc amplissimam cultui divino dicatam, 
ex animo religioso et munificentia valde praeclara, Nov 
Arcae habitantes, cura sub pastorali Rev. AJexaridri 
Macwhorter, S. T. D., primum qui posuit saxum, con- 
struxerunt, anno salutis, 1787; Amer. Reipub. Foede- 
ratae 12. Auspicante Deo, Longem Perduret in Aeum. 

Dr. Macwhorter's pastorate terminated with his death, 
July 20, 1807. His successors have been Edward D. 
Griffin, till 1809: James Richards, till 1823: William T. 
Hamilton, till 1834; Ansel D. Eddy, till 1848; Jonathan 



12 

F. Stearns, till 1883; David R. Frazer, the present 
pastor. Dr. Macwhorter's study chair, an old-fashioned 
piece of furniture with a broad wooden shelf attached 
to the right arm is preserved in the rooms of the New 
Jersey Historical Society (p. 16). 

The "Old First" has played so important a part in 
the history of Newark, and still wields so benign an 
influence, that it has been deemed advisable to give 
illustrations of the three buildings which the congrega- 
tion has occupied since it settled on the Passaic, over 
two centuries ago. That of the first meeting house is 
from a drawing found in the corner of an old map, en- 
titled "Our Towne on Passayke;" that of the second is 
enlarged from another old map. The third shows the 
exterior of the present structure, which stands on the 
east side of Broad street, just south of the Jersey Cen- 
tral station. The interior is not so old fashioned as one 
would expect from the history of the church. The 
decorations consist of elaborate mouldings. There is a 
large platform for the pulpit; a colonnade of steps 
leads up to it on either side; above it is an arch which 
half conceals a dome. 

The church which founded Newark, and whose early 
history is identical with that of the city, is as nourishing 
as the city which it founded. It ownis valuable real 
estate on Broad street, and enjoys also the support of 
a large and wealthy congregation. In the rear of the 
church is the grave-yard. North and west it is flanked 
by the rear of factories and on the south by the railroad. 
The whirring of machinery, the puffing of engines and 
the unkempt look of the grounds, arouse a feeling of 
resentment at the neglect which has fallen upon this 
spot, which once, doubtless, was tranquil and beautiful. 
The original burying ground was located in the rear of 
the engine-houses on the opposite side of Broad street. 
During the summer of 1889 the remains and headstones 
were removed to a vault in Fairmount Cemetery. 

The First Presbyterian church is a venerable struc- 
ture for this young country, and, with its traditions 
reaching back even beyond the settlement of Newark, it 
may be regarded as a fit monument to the sturdy band 
of pioneers whose spirit of pluck and perseverance 
seems to have been inherited by the community they 




I.l! 










T 



iT. 



X 



/.. 






hj> 



13 

founded. Upon this spirit, as upon a foundation, the 
city of Newark has been built. 

Historical Incidents. — The Revolutionary history of 
Newark is devoid of picturesque details, the British 
having made Elizabeth the base of their operations in 
this section of New Jersey. In 1776, Washington, then 
on his retreat to the Delaware, passed through Newark, 
which has one claim to distinction over all other towns 
in which Washington and his troops were quartered 
during the Revolution — it has no Washington's Head- 
quarters. Washington was in Newark five days, and, 
from his record as a sleeper elsewhere, we may be sure 
that he slept in some structure in Newark. But, unfor- 
tunately, it cannot be identified. It has been claimed 
that he stopped at the Gouverneur mansion — Irving's 
"Cockloft Hall "—situated back from Mt. Pleasant 
avenue and facing Gouverneur street; also at the old 
Eagle Tavern, which fronted on Broad street a little north 
of the present City Hall ; and at the house of one of his 
officers, Capt. Huntington, which stood on the south- 
east corner of Broad street and Eighth avenue. 

Washington entered Newark the evening of November 
22, 1776, with his retreating forces. Six days after- 
wards, just as the Americans moved out, Cornwallis's 
vanguard moved in .from the north. The English 
started in pursuit about December 1, leaving a strong 
guard in Newark, whose presence stimulated many who 
were Tories at heart to come out in their true colors. 
Newark, did not, however, suffer during the Revolution 
as did Monmouth, nor is her Revolutionary history so 
romantic as that of the coast counties. Her trials were 
confined to a few depredations directed against those 
who sympathized with the Americans. 

An amusing incident in the history of Newark was 
the election held early in 1807 to determine upon the 
site for a new court-house building. At that time 
Elizabeth Town was part of Essex Co. and a rival 
claimant of Newark for the court-house site. In those 
days women had the right of suffrage, and they and the 
children for several days before the election did nothing 
but write ballots. On the day of election, the voters, 
men and women, were driven hurriedly from poll to 
poll, and voted as often as they could, the women 
vying with the men in ballot-box stuffing. So deter- 



14 

mined was the contest, that Gov. Pennington himself 
conducted "a strapping negress " to the polls av*d 
"joined her in the ballot." Men who had voied 
disguised themselves as women and voted over again, 
and boys also attired themselves as women and gained 
access to the polls. The result was in favor of Newark, 
but the frauds were so palpable — Newark's vote being 
nearly equal to her whole population — that the election 
was set aside, while the frauds committed by the women 
created such a scandal that the right of suffrage was 
taken away from them. 

Historic Buildings. — The three most interesting 
historical buildings in Newark are the " Old First " and 
Trinity churches (pp. 7 and 20), and the old Gouver- 
neur mansion, famous as Washington Irving's •'Cock- 
loft Hall," because of his frequent sojourns there and 
his references to it in "Salmagundi." At that time it 
was owned by Gouverneur Kemble, one of Irving's 
intimates. Pierre Irving, in his "Life and Letters of 
Washington Irving " says: 

"Among Irving's associates at this time were Peter 
and Gouverneur Kemble, Henry Brevoort, Henry Ogden 
and James K. Paulding, who, with himself, his brother 
Peter and a few others, made up a small circle of 
intimates, designated by Peter as the 'Nine Worthies,' 
though Washington described them as 'The Lads of 
Kilkenny.' One of their resorts was an ' old family 
mansion ' * * * which was on the banks of the 
Passaic, about a mile above Newark. * * * * 
It was full of antique furniture, and the walls were 
adorned with old family portraits. The place was in 
charge of an old man, his wife and a negro boy, who 
were its sole occupants, except when the nine, under 
the lead, and confident in the hospitality of the Patroon, 
as they styled its possessor, would sally forth from New 
York and enliven its solitude by their madcap pranks 
and juvenile orgies." 

On the place was a summer-house and a fish-pond, of 
which Irving, to illustrate the peculiarities of the mythi- 
cal Cockloft, says : 



15 

" An odd notion of the old gentleman was to blow up 
a large bed of rocks for the purpose of having a fish- 
pond, although the river ran at a distance of about a 
hundred yards from the house and was well stored with 
fish ; but there was nothing, he said, like having things 
to one's self. And he would have a summer-house built 
on the margin of the pond; he would have it sui rounded 
by elms and willows, and he would have a cellar dug 
under it for some incomprehensible purpose, which 
remains a secret to this day." 

This summer-house as it was in 1859 was sketched 
by William A. Whitehead, who presented the draw- 
ing to the New Jersey Historical Society. Writing 
to this society not many years before his death, Irving 
says: "With Newark are associated in my mind many 
pleasant recollections of early days, and of social meet- 
ings at an old mansion on the banks of the Passaic." 

The summer-house was demolished when Passaic 
street was extended. The mansion still stands on 
Mount Pleasant avenue, corner of Gouverneur street, 
but it is much altered, and has no relics of the days 
when Irving and his companions had their frolics tnere. 

Modern Newark. — City Hall, northwest corner of 
Broad and William streets; Police Headquarters, 13 
William street; Post Office, northwest corner of Broad 
and Academy streets; Custom House, same; Court 
House, intersection of Market and High streets. 

Telegraph : Newark District Telegraph Office, 182 
Market street; Western Union Telegraph Co. (with 
Public Telephone), 180 Market street; Telegraph Sta- 
tions, in all the railroad stations. 

Railroad Stations : Central Railroad of New Jer- 
sey, East Ferry street, Ferry street (northeast corner 
of Prospect street), Broad street (between Mechanic 
and Fair streets), opposite City Hall, a short distance 
from the Court House and Post Office — the most 
centrally located railroad station in Newark: Penn- 
sylvania Railroad, Centre street, Market street (New 
Jersey Railroad avenue), Chestnut street (New Jer- 
sey Railroad avenue), Emmet street (New Jersey 



16 

Railroad avenue) ; Delaware, Lackawanna & Western 
Railroad, Broad street (Morris and Essex Railroad 
avenue); Neivark and Paterson Railrord {New York, 
Lake Erie & Western Railroad), Ogden street, between 
Third and Fourth avenues, Grafton avenue and Oraton 
street ; New York & Greenwood Lake Railroad, Verona 
and Washington avenues. 

Newark Academy, 536-548 High street. This is the 
oldest of the many public schools of Newark, having been 
founded in 1775. It is a collegiate preparatory school. 

Hospitals: Neivark City Hospital, 116 Fairmount 
avenue (has also training school for nurses) ; St. Michael's 
Hospital, High street corner Central avenue ; Hospital 
of St. Barnabas, 681 High street; Newark German Hos- 
pital, corner Bank and Wallace streets; Hospital for 
Women and Children, South Orange avenue near Bergen 
street ; Home for the Friendless, same ; St. James R. C. 
Hospital, corner Lafayette and Madison streets. 

Miscellaneous : Society for the Prevention of Cruelty 
to Children for Essex Co., 144 Market street; Boys' 
Lodging House, same; Society for the Prevention of 
Cruelty to Animals, 46 Fair street ; Board of Trade, 764 
Broad street; Y. M. C. A., Clinton street near Broad; 
Y. M. Cath. A., 76 and 78 New street; Y. M.H. A., 
30 Plane street; Miner's Theatre, 193 Market street. 

Restaurant : G. Munzer & Co., one door north of 
Broad street station, Central Railroad Co. of New 
Jersey. 

New Jersey Historical Society, northwest corner Broad 
and Bank streets, publishes " New Jersey Archives " 
(Colonial Records), and "Collection of New Jersey 
Historical Society " (papers relating to the history of the 
State), owns the original of the map "Newark or Pesayak 
Towne" (1666-1680), Dr. McWhorters study-chair (p. 11) 
and cane, coat and chapeau of Capt. James Lawrence — 
(" Don't give up the ship !") — a stone from the house of 
Columbus in San Domingo, a piece of the Charter Oak, 
a piece of the dock of Delft Haven from which the 
Mayflower sailed in 1620, Robert Fulton's plans and 
drawings, and several Indian relics. 

Newark Free Public Library, West Park street near 
Broad, opened 1889, with 10,000 volumes. The building, 
of granite, with halls and stairways in marble, is one of 
the finest structures in the State. The main library 



17 

room will accommodate 200,000 volumes. There are, 
besides the catalogue room, with printed catalogues 
arranged according to subjects on tables and card cata- 
logues in desks arm-high around the room, a reference 
library, a prettily-furnished reading-room for women, 
a main reading-room, and a class-room to be used by 
children of the public schools brought thither by their 
teachers. The library is supported by a tax levy at the 
rate of one-third of a mill on the dollar of taxable 
valuation. Books may be taken out on presentation of 
a card. Cards, good for three years, will be issued on a 
" directory identification." If the applicant is known, 
or his or her name is in the directory, a card will be 
given; if neither of these conditions exist, the card will 
be granted only after four days' delay. The four days 
will be used in ascertaining, by library messengers, the 
correctness of the name and address ot the applicant. 
Armed with the card, there is no further preliminary 
necessary — the library will be open to the applicant. 
Books may be kept two weeks, and a penalty will be ex- 
acted for keeping tham longer — two cents a day. A 
postal-card notice will be sent at the expiration of a 
fortnight. If the book is not returned a week later, a 
library messenger will go to the house, obtain the book 
and collect twenty cents messenger service. 

Horse-Car Lines. — Essex Passenger Railroad Co. — 
Orange Line (green car and green signal light): From 
Market Street Depot Pennsylvania Railroad Co., through 
Market, Broad and Orange streets ; through Roseville and 
East Orange to Lincoln avenue, Orange. Broad Street 
Line(ved car and red signal light) : From Badger avenue, 
through Clinton avenue past Lincoln Park; through 
Broad street; through Belleville avenue to Mt. Pleasant 
Cemetery. Belleville Line : From Washington avenue 
to Belleville. Roseville Line : From Roseville Depot, 
through Warren street, Wallace place, Bank street past 
Court House; through Market, Bowery and Chapel 
streets and Albert avenue to Loekwood street. Newark 
and Bloomfield Line (yellow car and yellow signal light) : 
From Station, foot of Broad street, through Broad and 
State streets, Summer and Bloomfield avenues to Bloom- 
field. (Branch through Mt. Prospect avenue to Old 
Bloomfield road.) Harrison Line (white car and blue 
signal light): From Davis avenue, Harrison; through 



18 

Harrison avenue, Bridge, Broad, Market, Union, Elm 
and Pacific streets to Pennington street. 

Elizabeth and Newark Horse Railroad Co. — From 
Fourth avenue, through Ogden, Front, South Front 
and Mulberry streets, New Jersey Railroad avenue to 
and through Thomas street to Pennsylvania avenue; 
through Pennsylvania avenue to Miller street; through 
Miller street and Elizabeth avenue to City Line; thence 
to Waverly and Elizbaeth ; connecting with East Newark, 
Irvington, South Orange, Orange, Bloomfield, Belleville 
and Roseville cars; and with Delaware, Lackawana & 
Western, Erie, Pennsylvania, and Central Railroad of 
New Jersey at various depots along line; also with all 
excursion boats on the Passaic River. 

Newark and South Orange Horse Railroad Co. — Newark 
and South Orange Line (blue car and red signal light) : 
From Market Street Depot, through Market street, past 
Court House; through Springfield and South Orange 
avenues, passing Fairmount and Holy Sepulchre Ceme- 
teries, Shooting Park, Insane Asylum and Seton Hall 
College to South Orange. 

Newark and Irvington Street Railway Co. — Newark 
and Irvington Line (yellow car and yellow signal light): 
From Market Street Depot, through Market street, past 
Court House; through Springfield avenue, past Wood- 
land Cemetery, to Irvington. 

Cab Service. — Standard Cab Co., 19 Division place; 
telephone No. 369; can be ordered by telephone from 
New York, Elizabeth, Paterson and any other places in 
telephonic connection with Newark. Rates: 
Cabs — By the trip, one mile or fraction thereof, 

each passenger $0 25 

By the hour, first hour or fraction thereof,' 1 00 

Each succeeding hour 75 

Coupes — By the hour onlv, first hour or fraction 

thereof " 1 25 

Each succeeding hour 1 00 

Churches. — For First Presbyterian Church, see p. 7. 
The Second Presbyterian Church of Newark was dedi- 
cated September 30, 1810; the Third in 1824. There 
are now nineteen churches of this denomination and two 
United Presbyterian churches in Newark. 

The First Baptist (Peddie Memorial) Church was 



19 

organized June 6, 1806. Newark has now fourteen 
churches of this denomination. 

The Peddie Memorial, in memory of Thomas B. Ped- 
die, is the finest modern church structure in Newark. 
The general ground plan covers the entire lot, 100x107 
feet, forming a circular floor plan. 

Four prominent alcoves are arranged by a system of 
Roman arches which are furred and broken in the main 
domed lines of the arch that spans the great ceiling. In 
each of the four alcoves the galleries are slanted, and 
the seats are recessed back to the curved walls. Directly 
in the corner of Fulton and Broad streets and imme- 
diately above the porch is the memorial bay alcove, the 
window openings made to suit the memorial windows 
formerly in the chancel of the Academy street church. 

The ceiling is formed in part by the four Roman 
arches on either side of the building, from the inter- 
section of which massive groins run up into the great 
dome, the upper part of which is a huge stained-glass 
lantern of dome shape. The groins are heavy oak tim- 
bers, the panels of the ceiling of light wood, while 
metal ornaments in broad bands run horizontally 
around the domed ceiling, relieving the wood-work 
from monotony. A series of stained-glass dormer win- 
dows also encircle the ceiling of the lofty dome. 

The center of the ornamentation and architectural 
effect is designed about the marble baptistery, which is 
placed in the center of the building; in other words, 
immediately back of the pulpit. Radiating from this 
point the seats gently curve, surrounding the pulpit and 
lectern, thus forming an amphitheatre. The baptistery 
is of solid carved marble, elevated several feet above 
the line of the main floor, and curved in general out- 
line, with approaches corbelled and arched on the two 
sides, forming a cluster of grouped columns and arches, 
from the robing rooms, which are placed directly un- 
derneath the two organs on the north and south sides 
of the pulpit. 

Directly behind the pulpit on the second story of the 
Fulton street wing of the building and facing the audi- 
ence are the Sunday-school rooms. 

Dividing the auditorium from the Sunday-school 
rooms is a rich and elaborate screen of cherry and 
wrought metal, with sliding partitions, so that the two 



20 

general compartments of church and Sunday- school 
may be opened into one great audience room, when de- 
sired, capable of seating more than three thousand per- 
sons. When thus thrown open, the Sunday-school 
rooms form a richly alcoved chancel, and its groined 
ceiling and beautiful windows, as seen through the in- 
terstices of the metal screen, are an attractive archi- 
tectural feature. One can readily imagine the effect when, 
during some solemn celebration, the screens suddenly 
part and disclose the children singing, with uplifted 
faces, their hymn of praise. 

Of the eighteen Methodist Episcopal churches in 
Newark, Wesley Chapel — Halsey Street M. E. Church — 
is the oldest. The first meetings of the society were 
held in a bark mill which stood a few hundred yards 
from the present site of the Halsey street church, which 
was dedicated January 1, 1809. 

There are twelve Episcopal churches in Newark. The 
oldest of these is Trinity. Here Washington, Robert 
Morris, Robert Livingston and Gen. Lord Sterling are 
known to have worshipped. The base of the steeple of 
the original structure, erected 1743-44, supports the 
steeple of the present edifice, which was consecrated 
May 21, 1810. The head-stone which marked the grave 
of Col. Ogden, Trinity's founder, in the old Presbyterian 
grave-yard, now forms part of the floor in the porch of 
Trinity, but the record is totally obliterated. The 
interior has an old-fashioned air, owing chiefly to the 
fact that the old pews have been retained. Those at the 
head of the main aisle with their bowed fronts are par- 
ticularly quaint looking. There is a great high pulpit 
with narrow, winding stairs. There is a fine stained- 
glass window by Tiffany — The Baptism of Christ — in 
the rear of the chancel, and to the left the Gifford 
memorial window executed in England. The old bury- 
ing ground is on Rector street, near by. 

The first of the (Dutch) "Reformed churches, of which 
there are nine, was organized in 1833. 

The first Roman Catholic congregation met in 1826 in 
the basement of a private house. The first church 
record bears date November 3, 1829, and soon after- 
wards a small church was erected on the present site of 
St. John's Roman Catholic Church. St. Patrick's 
Cathedral was founded in 1850. There are now seven- 



21 

teen churches of this denomination in Newark, besides 
numerous parochial schools (6,699 pupils) and benevo- 
lent institutions, including several hospitals, and monas- 
teries and fifteen convents, among which is St. 
Dominic's, whose inmates are engaged in the "Perpetual 
Adoration of the Most Blessed Sacrament," not being 
allowed beyond the confines of the convent except in 
cases of the direst necessity. 

Besides these churches there are 2 Congregational, 
1 Reformed Episcopal, 1 Methodist Protestant, 4 Lu- 
theran, 1 Universalist, 2 Swedenborgian, 1 Reformed 
Catholic and 8 independent churches, and 4 Jewish 
Synagogues. 

Parks. — Lincoln (p. 24), junction of Clinton avenue 
and Broad street; Military (p. 25), Broad street and 
Park place, noted for its avenues of stately elms. Near 
the south end is a statue of Gen. Phil. Kearney. The 
park is on the site reserved by the settlers as a practice 
ground for the militia. Washington (p. 25), at the 
junction of Broad and Washington streets, on ground 
reserved by the settlers for a market place. 

Cemeteries. — Mt. Pleasant, Belleville avenue and 
Harney street, the principal cemetery of Newark, slop- 
ing down to the river and beautifully laid out; St. 
John's, Belleville avenue, near Fourth avenue; Wood- 
land, Rose street, near Eighteenth avenue ; Fairmount 
(p. 12), South Orange avenue. 

Clubs. — Essex (organized, 1876; incorporated, 1881), 
occupies a fine mansion on Park place, overlooking 
Military Park. Recently added to the building have 
been a spacious dining hall and billiard room. An air 
of old-fashioned comfort pervades the original portions 
of the house. Situated in one of the finest residential 
quarters of Newark, the club includes in its membership 
some of the oldest and wealthiest families in the State. 

North End (organized, 1887), situated at the north- 
west corner of Broad street and Third avenue, the fine 
building (see illustration) having been erected for the 
Club. Special features of the interior arrangements are 
the roomy entrance hall, with oaken staircase, and 
broad, low fireplace; the reception room and parlor, 
finished in white and gold, opening on a terrace (on the 
Broad street front) covered in summer with an awning, 
and the billiard room, which is 40 feet square, with bays 



00 

at the sides, with a large open fireplace of wrought 
stone and molded brick. In the basement are four 
bowling alleys. 

Other clubs are the Chatelet, 1008 Broad street, and 
the Progress (Hebrew). There are also the Newark 
Harmonic and Schubert Vocal societies, and seventeen 
other singing societies. 

Athletics and Sport. — Triton Boat Club: Has a 
fine club and boat-house on the Passaic, north of Mount 
Pleasant Cemetery, with grounds which comprise a run- 
ning track and tennis courts. It number* about 100 
members, and has a fine record. From the club-house 
is a straight-away course of 1% miles, a view of which 
is commanded from the grand stand. 

Other athletic and rowing clubs are the Riverside 
Athletic Club, whose grounds and house are near those 
of the Triton, the Mystic, Eureka, Institute, Passaic and 
Atalantas, the last formerly located on the Harlem, 
whence it is thought the increase hi shipping, following 
upon the opening of the ship-canal, will drive most of 
the rowing clubs to Newark. The Atalantas are on the 
east bank of the Passaic, between Market and Centre 
street bridges. 

Base-Ball Grounds, foot of Emmet street. Principal 
clubs: Newarks, Rosevilles, O. N. T.'s, Star Athletics 
and Tenth Ward Athletics. 

Wheeling : The hard, level roads around Newark 
have made wheeling a popular sport. The Essex Bicycle 
Club is an important organization, and the New Jersey 
Wheelmen have their headquarters at 494 Broad street. 

The New Jersey Trotting and Horse- Breeders' Asso- 
ciation (Box 242, Newark, N. J.) is seeking to bring for- 
ward in the State an animal of superior characteristics 
for road and track purposes", and, by a careful system of 
breeding and training, to insure beauty, service, docility 
and speed. 

The Mutual Driving Association : trots every Satur- 
day afternoon, in summer, at Waverly. 

Transportation (see beginning of Chapter and title, 
Railroad Stations, p. 15). In the early part of this cen- 
tury the only public conveyances between Newark and 
New York were the stage-coaches. In 1800 there was 
but one of these, an ungainly vehicle with a long body, 
hung upon iron jacks, with five seats and a baggage 



9>A 

ao 

rack. Four miles of the road were so badly washed 
by the tide of the Passaic that the coach jolted over 
logs and stones, and the passengers usually preferred 
making that part of the journey on foot. In 1813, 
four lines from New York to Philadelphia passed 
through Newark. Of Gen. John Noble Gumming, 
who was one of the chief stage proprietors and mail 
contractors, an interesting anecdote is still preserved. 
During the period when Gideon Granger was Post- 
master-General (1802-1809), there were serious irre- 
gularities in the delivery of the mails. Granger 
therefore determined to travel in disguise over the 
mail-routes. Some one at headquarters gave Cum- 
ming the tip, and he instructed his negro driver what to 
do should he happen to have a passenger answering a 
certain description. In due time the stage was boarded 
at Paulus Hook by Granger, and the negro driver with 
a crack of his whip sent the horses plunging over the 
rough road. 

"Do you want to break all the bones in my body?" 
shouted Granger. " Drive slow! Drive slow! " 

"Can't do it, sir!" was the reply. "I drive the 
United States mail!" 

Again and again the Postmaster-General protested, 
but in vain; and by the time he reached Newark he was 
satisfied that on one route at least the interests of the 
United Stat j s mail service were well looked to. 

It was in Newark that Roosevelt, in 1798, built the 
"Polacca," a little craft fitted with a steam engine of 
twenty-inch cylinder and two-feet stroke which, October 
21, of that year, eight years before the successful trial of 
Fulton's "Clermont" on the Hudson river, made a trial 
trip on the Passaic, but with disputed success. 

In 1818, a line of sloops and schooners was success- 
fully established between Newark and New York. There 
was at one time much shipping in Newark, among the 
vessels clearing in 1837 being two whalers, the "John 
Wells" and the "Columbus." With the established 
success of steamboating this mode of travel was intro- 
duced between New York. 

The first railroad trip between Newark and New York 
was made September 1, 1834, in the passenger car 
" Washington " which was, however, drawn by horses. 
December 2, 1835, the first engine passed over the road. 



24 

Now, Newark has railroad communication with the 
whole country. 

The Newark and New York Railroad is a branch of the 
Central Railroad Co. of New Jersey. It was chartered 
March 1. 1866, and began operations in 1869. The 
branch between Newark, Elizabeth port and Elizabeth 
was opened in 1872. 

An idea of the active, progressive spirit which per- 
vades Newark was given in the review of its industrial 
history (p. 2). The city is also an important trade cen- 
ter. The main business artery is Broad street, which has 
a width of 120 feet. This street was laid out by the 
original settlers. On it are large retail and wholesale 
stores of every description, Newark being the great 
shopping center for many towns and villages in Essex 
and Morris counties, enjoying also a large wholesale 
trade in the same localities. Market street is another 
important business thoroughfare. 

The residential and business and manufacturing por- 
tions of Newark are beginning to be better defined. Of 
late years large residential districts have sprung up on 
the ridge which rises a little west of Broad street, and runs 
clear through the city north and south. High street from 
Market street to Clinton avenue is built up chiefly of 
elegant modern houses, those on the east side command- 
ing from the rear an extended view of the valley of the 
Passaic and Hackensack. Mt. Pleasant avenue and its 
extension beyond Mt. Pleasant Cemetery form the east- 
ern boundary line of another large and attractive resi- 
dential district with many fine buildings, including the 
North End Club. On the plain which extends from the 
foot of the ridge to the Passaic are most of the numer- 
ous factories which have made Newark wealthy and 
famous, and the principal business streets. There are, 
however, on the low-ground, several spots distinguished 
for fine residences. These are Broad street, near Lincoln 



25 

Park, Park place, facing Military Park, and Washington 
place and street, facing Washington Park. The houses 
on these sites are mostly broad and spacious. On Park 
place is the Essex Club. These fine residences and nu- 
merous others of more modern proportions belong to 
people who have business as well as family interests in 
Newark, are thoroughly identified with the city's pro- 
gress and are proud to hail from it. Herein Newark 
differs from those suburbs whose population is composed 
ahiefly of New York business men. Within its boundaries 
many fortunes have been amassed, and it offers as at- 
tractive a field as ever for investment; business and 
professional men find ample employment; and there is 
steady demand for labor. Hence the vast majority of 
its residents are Newarkers in fact as well as in name. 
Newark is, however, also a pler.sant dwelling-place for 
New York business men, because of its accessibility, its 
own attractiveness and the inexpensiveness of living 
there. Yet it offers all the conveniences of a city — 
electric light, gas, drainage, water-works, public build- 
ings and institutions, churches, theatres, banks, insu- 
rance companies, newspapers and stores. 

Newark has recently closed with the East Jersey Water 
Co. an important contract for the supply of pure water, 
which will add greatly to the advantages Newark has to 
offer as a place of residence. The Company has acquired 
water and water rights in the Pequannock water-shed 
and on the Pequannock river and its tributaries, located 
in the "upper Passaic water-shed in the northern part of 
New Jersey. These have been acquired from the Lehigh 
Valley Railway Company, as lessee of the Morris Canal, 
and from the Society for Establishing Useful Manufac- 
tures and the Dundee Water Power and Land Co., its 
contract with the last two named giving it the perpetual 
right to divert surplus waters from the Passaic river or 
any of its tributaries. 



CHAPTER II. 

BERGEN NECK. 



SUBURBS OF JERSEY CITY— The Newark branch 
of the Central Railroad of New Jersey cuts through Ber- 
gen Neck, with stations at Lafayette, Arlington avenue, 
Jackson avenue and West Bergen. These are parts of 
Jersey City which have been made so accessible to New 
York by the Central Railroad of New Jersey that people 
can reach their places of business in the city more quick- 
ly than those residents of New York itself who live above 
Fifty-ninth street, and many others living below that 
thoroughfare, who are off the line of the Elevated, or not 
near one of its stations. These suburbs are on the ridge 
which is virtually an extension of the Palisades, and from 
their high location they command superb views of New 
York Harbor and the city to the east and of Newark Bay 
and Newark to the west. The Statue of Liberty has 
become a familiar object to the dwellers on these heights, 
for it is visible from many points, and, though the tall 
lady turns her back on Jersey, the torch she grasps 
sheds its light on the shore of the stout little State which 
suffered so much in her cause. The bridge just beyond 
the Arlington avenue station is an excellent point from 
which to obtain the full rear view of the statue. From the 
western edge of the ridge, fine panoramas of Newark Bay, 
Newark and the Oranges burst into view. Their beauty 
is enhanced by the delicate green of numerous market 
gardens, covering the slope from the ridge to the bay, 
whose broad, glistening expanse shreds out into creeks 
and inlets which lose themselves among the sedges of 



27 

the opposite shore. Over across the meadows are the 
factories whose smoke veils like a haze the busy city of 
Newark, so that its outlines become blurred and it looks 
like a great forest of houses, above which the church 
spires protrude as if they were the straight, tall mon- 
archs of the woods, while in the distance the panorama 
is completed by the green plateau of the Orange Moun- 
tain. 

After leaving Communipaw, the main stem of the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey continues along the 
shore, through what is also a part of Jersey City, 
stopping at Claremont, where there is a ground for trap 
shooting, and at Greenville, which enjoys the same ad- 
vantages of situation and transportation to New York 
as those parts of Jersey City on the Newark branch. 
The next station is Pamrapo, which is part of Bayonne 
City. 

BAYONNE CITY.— This flourishing community in- 
cludes Pamrapo, Bayonne, Centreville and Bergen 
Point. Excepting at Centreville, where Constable Hook 
juts out with the enormous works of the Standard Oil 
Co. and the seaboard refineries of Lombard, Ayres & Co., 
Bayonne City consists of residential and business streets. 
While a city in its form of government and in the con- 
veniences it affords, it wears the aspect of a charming 
suburb, most of the dwellings being surrounded with 
ample grounds, while its water-fronts on New York 
Harbor, the Kill von Kull and Newark Bay offer every 
facility for aquatic sports. From the harbor-front the 
yachtsman can speed down into the bay, up the rivers or 
around Staten Island — in fact, he has the choice of all 
the waters around New York. For rowing, canoeing 
and sailing in small boats, Newark Bay, which spreads 
out like a great lake, has long been a favorite sheet of 
water. The Argonautas and the New Jersey Athletic 



28 

Association have their boat-houses a little south of the 
Central's long bridge. Near by are the extensive base- 
ball and tennis grounds of the New Jersey Athletic Asso- 
ciation, which enjoys a large membership, drawn not 
only from the immediate vicinity, but from Jersey 
City and the towns along the line of the Jersey 
Central. Trains stop for members of the club, and, on 
days when games are played, all trains stop at Avenue 
A station, near the grounds. This club adds greatly to 
the life of Bayonne City, and, with the amusements it 
affords the young people who participate in the sports 
and the older people who look on, is one of the chief 
attractions of this suburb. 

Bergen Point proper has long been a favorite place of 
residence, so that, besides the modern houses, there are 
many old mansions, sheltered by ancient trees and 
with ample grounds — relics of the days when land was 
sold by the broad acre instead of by the front foot. 

Historical Incidents. — The following historical in- 
cidents are of interest to all residents of Bergen Neck. 

CoiBmunipaw, where the Newark branch leaves the 
main line, is the oldest settlement on the New Jersey 
shore of the Hudson. It is indebted for its name to 
Michael Pauw, Burgomaster of Amsterdam and Lord of 
Achtienhoven, near Utrecht, who obtained, July 12 
and November 22, 1630, deeds from the Indians for a 
tract which he called Pavonia, a Latinization of his name. 
The shore had then already great commercial value 
because from there the Indians conveyed their peltry 
across to New Amsterdam. In the latter part of 1633 a 
house was erected at Communipaw, and this was the 
first actual settlement of which we have record. June 
17, 1634, Jan Evertse Bout arrived in New Netherland 
with a commission from Pauw as his superintendent, 
and took possession of the house at Communipaw. He 



29 

varied the monotony of colonial life by falling in love 
with the daughter of a servitor, who returned his affec- 
tion, thus causing such a " scandalum magnatum " 
(Bout being a family man), that the Schout of New 
Amsterdam crossed the river to remonstrate with him. 
But Bout flew into a passion, snapped his fingers in the 
Schout's face, and called him een houd, een dief, een 
schobbejak (a dog, a thief, a rascal), causing him to re- 
treat, thus establishing at a very early date the principle 
of State sovereignty, for which New Jersey has always 
stoutly contended. July 20, 1638, Pauw having sold his 
purchase back to the New Amsterdam Company, Bout 
leased the "bouwerie" for six years for one-quarter of 
the crops, afterwards receiving, as a gift, a patent for the 
farm, the place being called in the deed Gamoenepaen. 

In the early days of the Province, and especially 
under Keift's administration, troubles with the Indians 
were numerous and Communipaw suffered in common 
with the rest of Pavonia. In October, 1643. the Indians 
iaid waste the four " bouweries" in Pavonia, including 
that of Bout at Gamoenepaen, destroying the buildings 
by stealthily creeping up to them through the bush and 
firing the roofs, which were of reeds or straw. So 
thorough were they in their work of devastation, that 
the country from Tappan to the Highlands of Navesink 
was once more in the hands of the aborigines. Peace 
was not concluded until the spring of 1645. Then 
Bout sold his farm to Michael Jansen and Claes Comptab. 

In 1654 patents were issued for tracts "between 
Gemoenepaen and the Kil van Kol," most of them in 
what became afterwards known as Pembrepogh (Pam- 
rapo). But the settlement of the country was soon 
again checked by another Indian uprising occasioned by 
a somewhat curious incident. Hendrick Van Dyck had 
planted with trees imported from Holland, a peach 



30 

orchard on his farm in New Amsterdam, south of Trin- 
ity Church, between Broadway and North River. The 
Indians found the fruit so delicious that they made 
nightly raids. Finally, one night Van Dyck, who, gun 
in hand, had stationed himself in the orchard, fired upon 
the first dim figure he saw scaling the fence. His 
victim was an Indian girl. The Indians avenged her 
death chiefly upon the Pavonia settlements, and, except- 
ing the family of Michael Jansen of Communipaw, not a 
man who did not seek refuge at New Amsterdam es- 
caped with his life. 

Owing to the devastation wrought during this upris- 
ing of the aborigines, Stuyvesant, then Governor, pro- 
mulgated an enactment to the effect that all isolated 
settlers should remove before the middle of April, 1660, 
to the nearest village, so that the inhabitants could 
quickly unite for common defence. Communipaw was 
fortified in 1663, but meanwhile, in August, 1661, Stuy- 
vesant granted permission for a settlement "behind 
Communepah " and " on a convenient spot which may 
be defended with ease." The settlement was begun on 
the hill and called Bergen. It was laid out in a square, 
the sides of which were 800 feet long. It was surrounded 
by a palisade, back of which was a street, and two streets 
crossed each other at right angles at the centre. Here 
was a public plot, and in its very centre a well was dug 
which remained in use during part of the present cen- 
tury, but was finally covered and a liberty-pole erected 
on the spot. This was taken down in the fall of 1870, 
and all traces of the well destroyed when the square was 
paved. The old land-mark might well have been re- 
tained, its removal being evidence of a callous disregard 
for historic tradition that is almost unintelligible. 

Early in 1664 a log school house was built. In 1790 
the Columbia Academy was erected on the same lot, and 



31 

gave way in 1857 to the present structure. In 1663 
already the community had been taxed for church pur- 
poses, and with the following year the records of the 
Dutch Reformed Church, the first church in the State, 
commence. The original building was of logs, in what 
is now known as the old grave-yard. In 1680, an octag- 
onal stone structure was put up. Around the wall were 
pews for the men, the women being accommodated with 
chairs on the floor. The bell was tolled from the centre 
of the church. This edifice was taken down and a new 
church put up in 1773. It stood until 1841, when the 
present structure was erected. Until 1809 the records 
were kept in Dutch. 

The village passed quietly through the capture of New 
Amsterdam by the British, its recapture by the Dutch 
and subsequent cession to England ; and indeed, until 
the Revolution, nothing occured to ruffle its serenity. 
Even during the Revolution it was not subjected to 
much excitement. The Americans remained in posses- 
sion of Bergen, which they had fortified, until Wash- 
ington, who had made it his headquarters, decided to 
retreat to the Delaware. The British then moved in, 
and named the works Port Delancey, in honor of the 
Westchester Tory, Oliver Delancey. It was garrisoned 
chiefly by Tory refugees, who made cowardly raids 
through Bergen Neck. Washington and Lafayette 
once dined under an apple tree near the Bergen Square. 
The tree was blown down during a great gale, September 
3, 1821. When Lafayette, while visiting this country 
in 1824, passed through Bergen, he was presented with 
a cane made of wood from this tree. Bergen was con- 
solidated with Jersey City in 1870. 

In the latter part of 1660 the first road was laid out. 
It ran from Communipaw to Bergen — over the present 
Communipaw avenue to Palisade avenue, thence north- 



32 

erly along Palisade avenue to Academy street, thence 
westerly to the village. 

While Fort Delancey was occupied by the Tory ref- 
ugees, the people of Bergen were permitted to take 
provisions over the river to New York, where they 
would purchase household articles and other necessa- 
ries for themselves. They usually made the trip by 
way of Communipaw. The Tory refugees, scenting rich 
and easy prey, would waylay them on their way 
home and rob them. In order that they might be 
on their guard against these marauders the people 
arranged a code of signals, using therefor the half doors 
of a barn which stood just south of Communipaw avenue. 
If the upper half was open, it was a signal of safety ; if 
closed, it signified that the Tories were about. Then 
the people would remain on Ellis Island until the signal 
of safety was given. The Tories, learning that the doors 
were in some way used as signals, endeavored one day 
to lure some of the inhabitants ashore by means of false 
signaling. But, some of them maintaining that the open 
upper half of the door meant safety while others held as 
stoutly to the reverse opinion, the doors were opened and 
shut so rapidly that the people, suspecting something was 
wrong, remained on Ellis Island. 

Communipaw came in for a share of Irving's pleasant 
raillery, he referring to it in his "Knickerbocker 
History " as follows : 

" It is a well-known fact, which I can testify from my 
own experience, that on a clear, still summer evening, 
you may hear, from the Battery of New York, the obstrep- 
erous peals of broad-mouthed laughter of the Dutch 
negroes at Communipaw. * * * The negroes * * * 
carry on all the foreign trade, making frequent voy- 
ages to town in canoes loaded with oysters, buttermilk 
and cabbages. 

" As to the honest burghers of Communipaw, like wise 
men and sound philosophers, they never look beyond 



33 

their pipes, nor trouble their heads about any affairs out 
of their immediate neighborhood ; so that "they live in 
profound and enviable ignorance of all the troubles, 
anxieties and revolutions of this distracted planet. 
They meet every Saturday afternoon, at the only tavern 
in the place, which bears as a sign, a square-headed like- 
ness of the Prince of Orange, where they smoke a silent 
pipe, by way of promoting social conviviality, and 
invariably drink a mug of cider to the success of Admiral 
Van Tromp, who they imagine is still sweeping the 
British Channel, with a broom at his mast-head. * * * 
The language likewise continues unadulterated by bar- 
barous innovations ; and so critically correct is the 
village schoolmaster in his dialect, that his reading of a 
Low Dutch psalm has much the same effect on the nerves 
as the filing of a hand-saw." 

August 24, 1780, Lafayette's light camp marched 
toward Bergen and the following morning appeared on 
the brow of the hill, east of the town, in full view of 
the enemy. The infantry foraged all the way down to 
Bergen Point, driving off cattle, loading wagons with 
grain and carting it away, leaving with the people cer- 
tificates which might "procure for them, at some 
future day, compensation." There is, however, no evi- 
dence that these Revolutionary I. 0. U.'s were ever 
honored. The British were much taunted for having 
allowed this foraging expedition to take place under 
their very eyes. A satire in verse, supposed to have 
been written by Susannah, daughter of Gov. Livingston, 
appeared soon afterwards. Some of the characteristic 
lines are : 

We've almost, sweet sister, been frightened to death, 

Nor have we as yet, quite recovered our breath. 

An army of rebels came down t'other night, 

Expecting, no doubt, that the British would fight. 

Next morning we saw them parade at the Hook, 

And thought to be sure this was too much to brook ; 

That soon would the river be covered with boats, 

With Hessians and English to cut all their throats ; 
******* 



34 

But this was all vision, Tabitha, to me, 

Not an officer came, so much as to tea. 

The Major himself, who has always some story 

To lessen the worth of American glory, 

Or ashamed to be seen or else of the day, 

Would not venture to cross me though just in the way : 

But stopped, like one shot at, then whisked up a lane ; 

I'm sure the poor man felt a great deal of pain. 

At length came the night, overloaded with fears, 

And shew'd us on what we had leaned for five years. 

The men who had wished for occasions for blows, 

Now suffered themselves to be pulled by the nose. 

A ferry was established between Bergen Point and 
Staten Island certainly as early as 1750, and probably 
before. The old route to Philadelphia was via Bergen 
Point and Blazing Star (Staten Island) ferries, and South 
Amboy. It took three days to reach Philadelphia, 
though the vehicle was called in the advertisements a 
"flying machine." 



CHAPTER HI. 

ELIZABETH 



ELIZABETH PORT.— After leaving Bergen Point, 
the railroad crosses Newark Bay over a bridge nearly 
two miles long, with a pivot-drawbridge of iron span- 
ning two openings of 75 feet each in the clear, and rest- 
ing upon a pier of solid masonry. The first stop after 
Newark Bay has been crossed is Elizabethport, which 
occupies the water-front of Elizabeth. Here is an im- 
portant junction for Newark on the north and for the 
Jersey Coast and Pine resorts on the south. Several 
rowing associations have their boat-houses at Elizabeth- 
port. There are numerous manufacturing establish- 
ments already here, and the favorable location of the 
place, together with the facilities for transportation, are 
constantly attracting others. Conspicuous, from the cars, 
is the large Singer sewing-machine factory. 

ELIZABETH.— Public and Semi-Public Buildings 
and Institutions: City Hall, Elizabeth avenue, corner 
of West Scott place; Court House, Broad street; Police 
Department, City Hall (supra); Post Office, Arcade 
Building, Broad and West Grand streets ; Elizabeth 
General Hospital, Jacques street, near Elizabeth avenue. 

Railroad Stations: Central Railroad of New Jersey, 
Broad street, for Newark, New York, the Coast and Pine 
resorts, Lake Hopatcong, Budd's Lake and Schooley's 
Mountain ; Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington and 
the West, Spring street. 

Elizabeth Public Library and Reading -Room, 21 
Broad street, has 5,000 books for circulation and about 
500 for reference ; library and reading-rooms being free 



36 

to any resident of Elizabeth, over twelve years of age, 
who can secure a proper guarantee to an application 
card. The circulation averages about 100 daily, and 
the card-holders number 2,035, as against 1,519 last 
year. The institution depends for its support upon 
voluntary subscriptions. 

Few places have lately made such rapid progress as 
Elizabeth. For a number of years this city staggered 
under a heavy debt, and, at one time, an attempt was 
made to levy on the City Hall and other public build- 
ings; but, now that the debt has been settled, the old 
town is enjoying an era of unprecedented prosperity. 
It is a charming place of residence, the rawness of 
modern development being softened by the mellow 
touch of historical association. Elizabeth is an old, 
even an ancient, settlement for this country, for it was 
the third spot in New Jersey to be settled, and the first 
by English-speaking people. When Gov. Philip Car- 
teret made it, in 1665, the capital of the Province, there 
were only four log huts in the place. The Borough of 
Elizabeth Town was incorporated February 8, 1739; the 
City of Elizabeth was chartered March 4, 1863. Until 
comparatively recent years it was known as Elizabeth 
Town, and Elizabethport as Elizabethtown Point. 

History. — Elizabeth was named in honor of the 
wife of Sir George Carteret. She was a friend of Pepys, 
who speaks of het in his diary: " She cries out of the vices 
of the Court, and how they are going to set up plays 
already. She do much cry out upon these things, and 
that which she believes will undo the whole nation." 

The first white men to view the site of what is now 
Elizabeth, belonged to a little exploring party from 
Hudson's Half Moon, which September 3, 16l»9, had 
anchored in the Horse Shoe, Sandy Hook Bay. Sunday, 
September 6, John Coleman and four other men were 
sent to explore the harbor. They proceeded as far as 
Newark Bay. On their return trip Coleman was slain 
by an arrow shot by an Indian in concealment. 



37 

LAND TITLES.— Elizabeth was settled by Long 
Islanders who had previously emigrated from New 
England. The settlement was effected October 28, 
1664, under a patent from Governor Nicolls, the settlers 
purchasing from the Indians, the final payment being 
made November 24, 1665. Carteret, who arrived in Au- 
gust, 1665, confirmed the rights by which the settlers held 
their lands. Nevertheless, this question of title became a 
serious matter of dissension between the townspeople, 
who upheld their rights under the Nicolls Patent and 
their purchase direct from the Indians, against the 
governors sent out from England by the Proprietors; and 
subsequently, when the Proprietors had ceded their rights 
to the Crown, even against those sent out under the 
royal authority itself. These contentions continued 
until the Revolution, and did much to develop in the 
people of Elizabeth that love of liberty, and above all 
of the right to manage their own affairs, independent of 
any proprietary or royal governors, which made them 
such staunch supporters of the Colonial cause during the 
Revolution. Indeed, the transition from the civil strife 
with the representatives of the Crown to armed lesist- 
ance against the tyrannous edicts of the Crown itself 
was natural and easy. For, even during these civil dis- 
sensions, the spirit of the people had found vent in 
violent means of redress, such as tearing down the 
fences and destroying the property of those who had 
taken possession of land under deeds from the Proprie- 
tors ; and, when the possessions of one of their sturdy 
republican fellows were confiscated, because of his oppo- 
sition to the proprietary governor, his associates stood by 
him to a man, and raised among themselves a sufficient 
sum to indemnify him. Once these sturdy pioneers felt 
impelled by their love of local rights to unite in defend- 
ing them, even with the hated representative of the 
Proprietors. When New York sought to extend its 
jurisdiction over neighboring provinces, the people of 
Elizabeth rallied around the proprietary governor and 
made common cause with him against the aggressor. 
For then it was province against province; but, with the 
first lull in the conflict, they showed themselves as ready 
as ever to combat the pretensions of the Proprietors and 
their representative. Such is an outline of the pre- 
Revolutionary history of Elizabeth and its vicinity. 



38 



The numerous details of the struggle would hardly b 
found interesting to the general reader. Those who 
desire to go more fully into the subject will find it 
treated of at length in Hatfield's History of Elizabeth. 

The following scraps, which throw light upon life 
in Elizabeth before the Revolution, are taken at random 
from old records and newspapers : 

May, 1666, a servant, " Robert Graij," runs away from 
Luke Watson, to whom he had bound himself for three 
years, and is advertised for as follows, the advertise- 
ment being entitled a " Hue and Cry " : 

"His name Robert graij an Englishman bornd, 
about 20 yeares of age, a lustij bodied portely fellow. 

* * * It is supposed that he is in company with one 
Ruderic Powell, a pittifull fellow, who hath also ab- 
sented himself e and runn away." 

A whaling company was organized February 15, 
1668-9. This company captured the whaie which came 
ashore in the cove on Sandy Hook, which since then has 
gone by the name of Spermacetti Cove. 

October 13, 1679, Jaspar Daukers and Peter Sluyter, 
travelers from Friesland, visited Elizabeth. They 
lodged in a tavern at the Point kept by Frenchmen — 
" but there was nothing to be had there, except to warm 
us," and they lay down to sleep " upon a little hay be- 
fore the fire." 

"June 4, 1741. Daniel Harrison Sent in his account of 
wood carted for Burning two Negros allowed Cury. 
0.11.0." 

" February 25, 174|. Joseph Heden acct. for wood to 
Burn the Negros Mr. Farrand paid allowed. . 0. 7. 0. 
Allowed to Isaac Lyon 4 / Currv. for a load of Wood to 
burn the first Negro. . 0. 4. 0." 

" December 24, 1744. An Indian Wench named Sarah, 
absented some time from her Master the Rev. Mr. 
Simon Horton. * * * She is a short thick 
Wench about 24 Years of Age, and has lost some of her 
Fore Teeth." 

" August 12, 1751. We hear from Elizabeth Town, that 
two Women have been killed within these few Weeks 
past, near that Place, by falling out of riding Chairs." 

" April 27, 1752. A lively Parcel of Negro Boys and 
Girls from 12 to 20 Years of Age, who have all had the 



. 



39 

Small Pox, To be sold by Cornelius Hetfield, in Elizabeth 
Town." 

"Sept. 19, 1763. Margaret Johnston (formerly the 
Widow Chetwood), who for many Years, kept the Nag's 
Head Tavern, near the Bridge in Elizabeth Town, begs 
leave to inform her old Customers and Friends that she 
now keeps a Public House near said Bridgo in Elizabeth 
Town." 

"Elizabeth Town (in New Jersey), January 23, 1764. 
Last Friday departed this life, Miss Mary Eldrington, 
an old virgin, in the 109th year of her age. She was of 
an ancient family, born at Eldrington-Hall, in North- 
umberland, Old England, and on the next day she was 
decently interred in St. John's Church-yard, at Eliza- 
beth. Town. — It is remarkable, that, notwithstanding 
her great age, she was very desirous of getting a husband 
before she died; and not two years since, nothing could 
offend her so highly as to tell her that she was too old 
to be married." It will have been observed that this " old 
virgin " must have made a marvelously rapid journey 
from Eldrington Hall, in Northumberland, Old Eng- 
land, to Elizabeth Town, to be " decently interred in 
St. John's Church-yard," in the latter place the day 
after she was born in the former. 

ELIZABETH DURING THE REVOLUTION.— 
The spirit which the Stamp Act aroused in the people of 
Elizabeth is shown by the following extract from a news- 
paper of the day : 

" A large Gallows was erected in Elizabeth Town last 
week, with a Rope ready fixed thereto, and the Inhab- 
itants there vow and declare that the first Person that 
either distributes or takes out a Stamped Paper shall be 
hung thereon without Judge or Jury." 

Among the inhabitants were such sturdy patriots as 
William Livingston, the Revolutionary Governor of 
New Jersey; Elias Boudinot and William Peartree 
Smith. Commercial intercourse with Staten Island was 
broken off February 13. 1775, because its people had 
" manifested an unfriendly disposition toward the liber- 
ties of America." 

During the night of July 4, 1776, but a few hours 
after the adoption of the Declaration of Independence, 
a British armed sloop, having run up on Elizabethtown 
Point, was attacked from the shore with two twelve- 



40 

pounders, a great number of her men killed and the 
vessel set on fire and destroyed. This was probably the 
first military exploit of the new-born nation. 

About the middle of December, 1776, the British made 
Elizabeth the base of operations against the militia camp 
at Chatham, but the New Jersey militia, under Col. 
Ford, met the enemy at Springfield, and, in an hour's 
attack, inflicted such damage that the British fell back 
under cover of night to Newark. 

Shortly afte ■ Washington's successes at Trenton and 
Princeton, Gen. Maxwell, who commanded the militia, 
made a series of sorties from the Short Hills, had a suc- 
cessful skirmish with the Hessians at Springfield, Jan- 
uary 5, 1777, and, about January 16, marched toward 
Elizabeth, and took possession of the town, making 
prisoners of detachments of Hessians and Highlanders 
and capturing valuable stores. 

During the latter part of the winter of 1779, a plan 
was devised by the British to capture Gov. Livingston's 
and Maxwell's brigade, and an expedition under Lt.-Col. 
Stirling embarked for Elizabeth the night of February 
24, 1780. The Governor, fortunately, was away, and 
Maxwell, having been apprised by a fugitive of the 
enemy's approach, had gathered his forces in the rear of 
the town. The British vented their chagrin by firing 
the Presbyterian Church and parsonage, the barracks 
and the Academy. Maxwell having determined, by the 
li^ht of the burning buildings, the strength and dispo- 
sition of the enemy's forces, fell upon them and drove 
them back to their boats, one of which grounded and 
was captured with all on board. 

When the campaign of 1780 opened, Washington was 
encamped at Morristown, with posts thrown out as far 
as the Short Hills. The English organized an expedi- 
tion against Washington's camp, with Elizabeth as a 
base. At day-break, June 7, the enemy, 6,000 strong, 
having landed from Staten Island, and led by Knyp- 
hausen, who was confident that the superior numbers 
and discipline of his troops would give him an easy 
victory, entered Elizabeth. An eye-witness describes 
the scene as one of the most beautiful he ever beheld. 
In the van rode a squadron of dragoons, of Simcoe's 
regiment, known as the "Queen's Rangers," with drawn 
swords and glittering helmets, mounted on very large 



41 

and beautiful horses — then followed the infantry, com- 
posed of Hessians and English troops — the whole body 
amounting to nearly six thousand men, and every man, 
horseman and foot, clad in new uniforms, complete in 
panoply, and gorgeous with burnished brass and polished 
steel. The column proceeded along the Galloping Hill 
road, which leaves the Westfield road on the line of the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey, and, running north- 
west, enters Connecticut Farms, south of the Presbyte- 
rian Church. 

On "Prospect Hill, in the rear of Springfield," the 
Americans kept a lookout, who, on being notified of the 
British advance, fired a signal with an 18-pounder and 
lighted a tar barrel. The militia hastened to their 
mustering places, and, by the time the British reached 
Connecticut Farms, had a sufficient force to oppose 
their progress. The vanguard, having been checked by a 
party of sixty militiamen, were driven back upon the 
main body. The Americans being afterward pushed 
back toward Springfield, a stand was made at the bridge 
over the Rahway, whence the enemy were repulsed so 
effectually that Knyphausen retreated under cover of 
night to Elizabeth, first having burned Connecticut 
Farms. 

Thus the British expedition which had marched that 
morning in such gorgeous array and so confident of 
victory from Elizabeth was thrown back by a hastily- 
mustered, indifferently-equipped body of American 
militia. Before the British retired they laid waste the 
village of Connecticut Farms, one soldier brutally 
shooting down Mrs. Caldwell, the wife of Rev. James 
Caldwell, one of the most prominent Presbyterian cler- 
gymen in the country. Among the losses sustained by 
the British was that of Gen. Stirling, who received at 
the outset of the action a severe wound, from which he 
died a year later. 

Piqued by the defeat of so gorgeous an array of horse 
and foot and flying artillery under Knyphausen, Sir 
Henry Clinton, June 23, took oversight in person of a 
second attempt to penetrate to Washington's camp from 
Elizabeth by way of Springfield and the Short Hills, with 
some 5,000 infantry, besides dragoons, and some 15 or 20 
pieces of artillery — a force far superior to any which Wash- 
ington could muster. Connecticut Farms was reached 



42 

about sunrise, after the American pickets had been driven 
in. From this point the enemy proceeded in two columns, 
the right taking a somewhat more circuitous route on 
the north; the left the route leading direct from the 
" Farms" over the Rahway River to Springfield. Mean- 
while the report of the 18-pound signal gun was rever- 
berating through the Short Hills and the yeomen militia 
was hastening to the aid of Greene's Continentals. 

Major Lee, with the horse and pickets under Capt. 
Walker, supported by Col. Ogden's command, was 
thrown forward to Little's Bridge on the Vauxhall road ; 
Col. Dayton's regiment was entrusted with the defence 
of the village; Col. Angell, with his regiment and one 
piece of artillery, was posted at the bridge in front of 
the town, and Col. Shrieve at the second bridge 
to cover Angell's retreat. The enemy's left column 
spent the time which elapsed before the arrival of the 
right in manceuvers which led Gen. Greene to expect a 
flank movement. Hence, with his main body, he took 
position on the first range of hills back of Byram's tavern. 

A portion of the enemy's right column having forded 
the stream, it was impossible for Lee with his inferior 
numbers to hold his ground. Angell and Shrieve were 
also forced back, but so obstinate was the stand made 
by the Americans, and so severe the losses sustained by 
the enemy, that the latter lost heart, and, anticipating a 
still more obstinate defence from the forces posted on the 
Short Hills, and learning that Washington had sent for- 
ward a brigade from Morristown, they fired the village, 
and beat a hasty retreat to Elizabeth pursued by detach- 
ments of militia, who picked off a red-coat wherever a 
chance offered, and so galled the flying British and 
Hessians that they crossed over to Staten Island, allow- 
ing the Americans to once more take possession of Eliza- 
beth. On the American side not more than a thousand 
were engaged in this action. 

While the fight at the bridge defended by Col Angell 
was at its hottest, the Americans found that their wads 
were giving out. Thereupon Chaplain Caldwell, whose 
wife had been so barbarously murdered at Connecticut 
Farms, as related above, rushed over to the church, and, 
returning with an armful of hymn-books, scattered them 
among the soldiers, shouting as he did so : " Now boys, 
give 'em Watts ! " 



43 

Bret Harte has made this episode the subject of a 
highly dramatic poem, from which the following lines 
are quoted : 

* * * They were left in the lurch 
For the want of more wadding. He ran to the church, 
Broke the door, stripped the pews, and dashed out in 

the road 
With his arms full of hymn-books, and threw down his 

load 
At their feet ! Then above all the shouting and shots 
Rang his voice : "Put Watts into 'em — boys, give 'em 
Watts!" 

The conflicts at Springfield were small affairs even 
when compared with other battles of the Revolution, 
and, as far as numbers and casualties are concerned, they 
dwindle to insignificant skirmishes in comparison with 
the battles of modern warfare. Yet we may well feel 
proud that the wave of crimson and gold which twice 
swept over the plain from Elizabeth was twice broken 
by the little force of Continentals and militia which 
stood firm as a rock upon the hills at Springfield. 

CHURCH HISTORY.— As in Newark, the oldest 
church in Elizabeth is the First Presbyterian. Mention 
is made as early as June, 1671, of a "town-house."' 
This, like the "meeting-house" at Newark, doubtless 
served also as the Presbyterian ^>lace of worship. The 
lot included the present burying-ground of the First 
Presbyterian Church, and the town-house occupied part 
of the site of the present church. Graves were some- 
times dug in the church, and, as the present building 
extends over what were portions of the burying-ground, 
the structure doubtless shelters the remains of several 
generations of the early settlers. No description of the 
first building remains. The church was burned down 
by the British the night of Tuesday, January 25, 1780. 
Services were held in a store-house until the autumn of 
1785, when the new building was sufficiently near com- 
pletion for occupancy. It was dedicated about January 
1, 1786, and completed in 1791 or 17-98. 



44 

Though the church never played so prominent a part 
in the political affairs of Elizabeth as the "Old First" 
of Newark did in those of that city, it is, historically, 
the most important structure in Elizabeth. 

A curious figure in the early history of the church was 
Rev. John Harriman, who was called in September, 1687. 
Besides preaching, he ran a mill, a cider-press, was an 
agent for the sale of glass, dealt in real estate and ne- 
groes, was a surveyor and kept horses to let. 

Rev. Jonathan Dickinson, who became pastor in Sep- 
tember, 1709, became the first President of Princeton 
College, which was founded upon his classical school in 
Elizabeth, October 22, 1746 {supra, p. 10). His head- 
stone may be seen in the Presbyterian burying-ground. 

The Revolutionary pastor of the church was Rev. 
James Caldwell, whose wife was murdered by a British 
soldier at Connecticut Farms (p. 41, supra), and who 
supplied the Americans at Springfield with hymn-books 
for gun-wads, when, at a critical point in the battle, the 
latter were giving out. He was born at Cub Creek, Va., 
in April, 1734, graduated from the College of New 
Jersey (Princeton) m 174/), and became pastor at Eliza- 
beth in 1762. In April, 1776, he was chaplain of Col. 
Dayton's regiment, which had been quartered in the 
town. At various times he acted also as Assistant-Com- 
missary General. During the year 1778 he resided in 
Springfield, but in 1779 he removed to Connecticut 
Farms, so as to be nearer his people. He sometimes 
preached with his pistols lying on each side of him on 
the pulpit and sentinels on guard. He met his death in 
as tragic a manner as did his wife. On November 24, 
1781, he was shot down, at Elizabeth Town Point, by an 
American soldier named Morgan. Caldwell had inter- 
fered in behalf of Miss Beulah Murray, who had arrived 
from New York, and whom the sentinel wished to detain 




'f^fc.^^ 7 "^*"^ 



45 

until he had searched a bundle which she had tied up 
in a handkerchief. It is thought that the soldier had 
been bribed by the British to commit the act on the first 
favorable opportunity that offered. Morgan was hung 
for the crime, at Westfield, January 29, 1782. 

Caldwell was buried beside his wife. A monument 
was erected over their remains, November 24, 1845, by a 
joint committee of the First Presbyterian Church and 
the Cincinnati of New Jersey. 

The church stands on Broad street, between Murray 
street and Rahway avenue, forming, with the deeply- 
shaded grave-yard which spreads out in the rear, a rest- 
ful break in the busiest thoroughfare of the city. In 
the rear wall are the headstones of two of Gov. Car- 
teret's step-children, Samuel Lawrence (died August 16, 
1687) and Thomas Lawrence (died October 26, 1687), the 
Governor's wife having been the widow of Capt. Wm. 
Lawrence, of Tew's Neck, L. I. These are the most 
ancient headstones in the cemetery. Between them, 
and, like them, of brown stone, is the Caldwell memorial. 
It might have been supposed that the virtues of Mrs. 
Caldwell and her tragic death would have preserved her 
memory from the exploits of the epitaph fiend. On the 
contrary, however, he seems to have had more license 
given him than usual, the following being the result of 
his mortuary throes: 

Sacred to the memory of the Rev. James Caldwell 
and Hannah his wife, who fell victims to their country's 
cause in the years 1780 and 1781. He was the zealous and 
faithful pastor of the Presbyterian Church in this Town, 
where, by his evangelical labors in the Gospel vineyard, 
and his early attachment to the civil liberties of his 
country, he has left in the hearts of his people a better 
monument than brass or marble. 

Stop, Passenger ! 
Here also lie the remains of a woman, who exhibited to 
the world a bright constellation of the female virtues. 



46 

On that memorable day, never to be forgotten, when a 
British foe invaded this fair village, and fired even the 
temple of the Deity, this peaceful daughter of Heaven 
retired to her hallowed apartment, imploring Heaven for 
the pardon of her enemies. In that sacred moment, she 
was, by the bloody hand of a British ruffian, dispatched, 
like her divine Redeemer, through a path of blood, to 
her long wished for native skies. 

In addition to the First, there are six other Presbyte- 
rian churches. St. John's Episcopal Church, the oldest 
of that denomination in Elizabeth, is next in age to the 
First Presbyterian. It was founded by Rev. John 
Brooke, an Englishman and probably a graduate of 
Emanuel College, Cambridge, in 1700, obtaining his 
Master's degree in 1704. During the fall and winter 
1705-1706, he preached at the house of a Col. Townley. 
Afterwards he was allowed to hold service in the Presbyte- 
rian Church, provided that he would not read the service of 
the Common Prayer Book. This prohibition he dodged 
by committing the service to memory. On St. John the 
Baptist's Day, he laid the foundation of a brick church — 
St. John's — which he describes as 50 feet long, 30 feet 
wide, and 21 feet high, with 9 windows. The history of 
the church is that of a natural and prosperous develop- 
ment. 

Besides St. John's, there are three Protestant Episco- 
pal churches. 

Soon after the Revolution, the town was visited by 
traveling Methodist preachers. Asbury preached Sep- 
tember 6, 1785, in the yet unfinished Presbyterian Church, 
and soon afterwards a society was formed. There are 
now five churches of this denomination. 

There are 5 Baptist, 1 Congregational, 1 ^German 
Lutheran, 5 Roman Catholic churches, 1 Jewish syna- 
gogue, and 8 missions in Elizabeth. 

MODERN ELIZABETH.— The historical incidents 



47 

related above have left traces in the Elizabeth of to-day. 
It wears the gentle aspect of mellow old age, which no new 
settlement can put on, no matter how vigorous an attempt 
it makes with Queen Anne and Colonial architecture, 
stained shingles, and andirons or spinning-wheels, ac- 
quired, like Major General Stanley's ancestors in the 
" Pirates of Penzance," by purchase. Elizabeth has the 
ripe color of genuine antiquity — but not the decaying 
look of senility. The old First Presbyterian Church 
structure, a relic of the last century, still re-echoes with 
vigorous preaching; the mansion of New Jersey's 
Revolutionary Governor, William Livingston, is occu- 
pied by his descendants, whose head is the grandson of 
Susan Livingston, who married a Kean and, on his death, 
the Polish patriot and author, Count Julian Ursin 
Niemcewitcz, after whom the manor was named Ursino. 
Yet with all these delightful historical associations there 
is an abundance of modern enterprise; while the ancient 
elms cast their soft shadows over the whole, causing the 
transition from the old to the new to seem less abrupt 
than elsewhere. The changes are taking place behind 
the veil of many traditions which, like the gauze cur- 
tains of a theatre, make the new scene seem less garish 
than if the lights shone full upon it. The elms are a 
grand feature ot the city. Streets which might other- 
wise be uninteresting levels, are converted by them into 
colonnades of gray-ribbed columns, with arches of deep, 
dark green, in penetrating which the heat of summer 
loses much of its intensity. On either side are spacious 
mansions, in broad, well-kept grounds, while all around 
the old part of the city are new streets of residences. 

Elizabeth offers all the conveniences of city life. 
Broad street, from the station to the First Presbyterian 
Church, is a fine business thoroughfare; and in the busi- 
ness and professional life of the place there is a felicitous 



48 

mingling of old Elizabeth Town with new Elizabeth. 
The old families do not allow the new-comers to do all 
the "humping." They are active participants in the 
earnest, well-directed and successful efforts of the city 
to place itself abreast with the times. Public improve- 
ments are being made as rapidly as possible. The 
wooden pavements, which proved as disastrous to Eliza- 
beth as the wooden horse did to ancient Troy (a large 
portion of the debt that acted as a clog on the city's 
progress was contracted for these pavements), are being 
replaced with stone, and soon, no doubt, Elizabeth will 
occupy the position to which she is entitled by virtue of 
her traditions as the old capital of the province, her 
facilities of transportation and her advantages of loca- 
tion, which should draw many manufacturing interests 
to her, and make the city as great a distributing center 
for her section of New Jersey as Newark is for hers. 

NEW JERSEY JOCKEY CLUB.— One of the best 
mile tracks in New Jersey is that of the New Jersey 
Jockey Club, located within the corporate limits of the 
city of Elizabeth. It is about fifteen minutes' walk from 
the Union Depot, and about ten minutes from the 
Spring Street Station of the Central Railroad of New 
Jersey. The property of the Club, which includes 135 
acres, is directly back of North Elizabeth and on the 
edge of the meadows fronting on Newark Bay. The 
track, already a good one, was built under the personal 
supervision of an expert, who also gave his attention to 
the erection of the Grand Stand, Club House, betting- 
shed, stables and other buildings. The stand is a sub- 
stantial structure, w.ith a seating capacity of about 3,000; 
it is a single floor, with restaurant, bar and toilet-rooms 
underneath. The elevation, however, is ample, not only 
giving a view of all that occurs on the track, but also 
across both the meadows and the Bav. The foundation 



49 

of the track is composed of peat and gravel, with a top 
dressing of sandy loam, procured at Great Island, about 
three-quarters of a mile distant from the track. The 
island is the property of the Central Railroad Company 
of New Jersey, who purchased it on account of the fine 
quality of the sand. It can hardly be excelled for track 
purposes by any similar pit in the State. 

The Central Railroad Company of New Jersey has built 
a special branch directly to the rear of the stand, leaving 
the Elizabeth and Newark Branch near Great Island. 
The direct route is from the Liberty Street Ferry, by the 
Newark branch of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, 
and the trip is made every race day by half a dozen 
special trains of twelve and fifteen cars, in about twenty- 
five minutes. 

Mr. Michael F. Dwyer (the younger of the Dwyer 
Brothers) is President of the Club, and the originator of 
the enterprise. Mr. H. D. Mclntyre is the Secretary. 

Racing on this fine track began October 16, 1889. 
It was at first intended to have two autumn meet- 
ings, to end about November 18th, and two spring 
meetings, to b^gin about April 15th and end May 14th. 
But after the middle of November, it is expected that 
there will be racing on three days each week — Mondays, 
Wednesdays and Fridays, as long as the weather per- 
mits. 

WASHINGTON INAUGURATION CENTENNIAL. 
— An interesting event in our country's history was com- 
memorated in Elizabeth when, April 29, 1889, President 
Harrison passed through the city on his way to the 
Washington Inauguration Centennial Celebration in 
New York. On the 23d of April, one hundred years 
before, Washington was received by the people of Eliza- 
beth Town, partook of a repast at the residence of Elias 
Boudinot, and then drove to Elizabeth Town Point, 



50 

where, after reviewing the New Jersey troops, he em- 
barked for New York, his inauguration taking place 
April 30, 1789. President Harrison, Vice-President 
Morton, and their party, breakfasted at Gov. Green's 
house, and then reviewed a parade of militia, veterans, 
Freemasons, men attired as Revolutionary soldiers, and 
floats on which were scenes commemorating scenes 
peculiar to the life of our patriot fathers. The Presi- 
dent and his party then proceeded to the point of em- 
barkation for New York, passing under the "living 
arch," so called because its outlines were truly embel- 
lished with young girls chosen for their grace and beauty. 
These were dressed in white, carried banners emblematic 
of the States and Territories, and showered rosebuds 
and blossoms upon the President's carriage. Of all the 
features of the celebration, here and at New York, this 
"living arch," with the youth and beauty of the Eliza- 
beth of to-day adorning a memorial of the Elizabeth 
Town of our ancestors, is said to have most charmed 
the President. 



1044 



881 , 



, M IE 
a-i /'Ro$tieu8^ 

106,' 

IJAU' 



wdehingl 

IVfllUy . 
■ BfookxideC I 4^ 

98lJJ--^r- — °-. 
583 



Cbxner / I 



o 



*c 



719 

7, 




4fr 

1. Nfjfv Verit 

375 y<&hefritiltia. 

675 >-% 

P /^ < 

837 ^"s] Log(JJurn,lj u 

Be^ai'dsvillaW^T 77 ^>t— £ i? X ^ T 
££ \_jo30^y\ YBasking Ridge 1 

£ if A M 



388 



,x 



360 




X 



Wl 



^Liberty, Cower f \ 



vj^ 



ICE 



it* 



PlMcdml/i / >v> "T 

440* 




4/£ . Beuiet 



F Wlrt0tO«''< 



' * \ / 5 7 ' 






^ 









^r&T 



k^ 



'^J* 









x^^^/^r So u t] 
_^ — /Someryille^T, 



J 



109\\ 






^ ^ 4g» /;27 7^*^ ?> \^ 







Eng by S'.zjens & Morris, New York. 



CHAPTER IV. 

From the Kills to the Delaware. 



At Elizabethport, the main stem of the Central Rail- 
road of New Jersey leaves salt water and crosses the 
State through fertile plains and picturesque mountain 
passes to the Delaware. 

After a stop at El Mora, a suburb of Elizabeth, 
Roselle, the first of a long line of attractive suburban 
settlements, is reached. 

ROSELLE. — Roselle has no history, but if it cannot 
boast an interesting past it has a charming present. It 
is a lovely little village with broad level streets, the trees 
spreading their boughs so as to form a leafy arch over- 
head. The grounds around the station are prettily laid 
out, and at the head of the grass plot on the south side 
of the track is a tall flag staff, which has the honor ol 
being marked on the maps of the State Geological Survey. 
Roselle enjoys the advantage of the local rapid transit 
service on the Newark and Elizabeth branch of the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey, in addition to the New 
York trains. 

About a mile south of Roselle is Wheat Sheaf, a cluster 
of houses which includes the old Wheat Sheaf Inn. It 
stood in Revolutionary days, and Washington and Lafay- 
ette are said to have dined there. 

CRANFORD.— Like Roselle, Cranford has developed 
from a farming settlement into a place of suburban resi- 
dence. Since building operations have been under way 
on a concerted plan, the place has been steadily growing. 
A portion of the village, with lots sloping down to the 



52 

Rah way River, has been drained and sewered, and there 
houses are let as fast as they can be built. The Rahway 
River, which winds its way in the deep shade of the trees 
which fairly line its banks, has been dammed by the 
Cranford River Association and been made navigable 
for some three miles, and there are now about eighty row- 
boats and canoes and one steam-launch on the river. 
Regattas and boat parades are among the enjoyments at 
the disposal of Cranford residents. Of a moonlight night 
the 4 Rahway River is a most romantic stream. The 
moonbeams, piercing the foliage of the leafy arch, are 
shredded out over the placid water, while now and then 
a star is seen peeping through some break in the foliage. 

WESTFIELD.— This is an old settlement. It dates 
from 1720, and the Presbyterian Church — whose graceful 
white spire, piercing the foliage in which Westfield is 
embowered, is a prominent feature of the views to be 
had from the Watchung Mountain — from 1730. Life was 
quite primitive in those early days. The men made plows 
with wooden shares; pretty much every man was his 
own tanner, and the women spun all the clothing. A 
singing-teacher advertised singing-lessons at $1.00 for 
thirty nights or $2.00 a quarter, "subscribers to find 
their own wood and candles" ; — the Squallinis and the 
Katzenheulers might have found Americans in those 
days as willing, but hardly as lucrative victims as now. 

Early in this century, life in Westfield was rendered 
more joyful by the "Stage House," which was noted for 
its flip. This pre-Raphaelite beverage, besides gladden- 
ing the soul of Westfield's population, gave the house a 
reputation among the haute volee of New York and Phil- 
adelphia who traveled this way. As the stage rattled 
up to the hostelry of a winter morning, the door of the 
house was thrown open, emitting the crackle and sheen 
of the logs that blazed on the huge open hearth, while ir t 




w 
o 

w 
w 

B 
O 

a 
o 
o 

= 



53 

the door-way stood the host, old Charley Oilman, the 
brass buttons on whose blue coat were not more shiny 
than his rubicund face. When the benumbed passengers 
had gathered around the hearth, a quart jug for each was 
nearly filled with malt-beer, sweetened, and brought to 
a foam with a red-hot poker. With a half-pint of rum 
poured in and nutmeg grated on the foam, the flip was 
ready. 

Westfield to-day is a thriving, progressive place. Broad 
street is a bustling business thoroughfare, with shops of 
all kinds. The older streets are spanned by the boughs of 
grand old trees, and the spacious grounds which sur- 
round the ample dwellings are cool and shady. The 
newer streets have rows of pretty, modern houses. The 
ground here begins to be rolling, for it is nearer the foot 
of Watchung Mountain than the places already spoken 
of. There are slight elevations on either side of the 
railroad; and from the southerly height one has a pretty 
view over the town, almost hidden among the trees, 
along Watchung Mountain and across the broad break 
in this ridge of trap at Millburn, to the softly wooded 
slope of its continuation at Wyoming. The surrounding 
country is rolling and picturesque — sweeps of meadow- 
land broken up by thickets and clumps of trees, the 
greens ranging from the light verdure of grasses and 
bushes to the rich, deep tones of the woods. A similar 
view of Watchung and the lands along its base, is had 
from the rise of ground north of the railroad on which 
the old church stands. Here, too, is the ancient grave- 
yard with its many venerable, lichen-specked headstones. 

A little more than two miles northeast of Westfield is 
the hamlet of Branch Mills, where a pretty lake, Echo, 
has been formed by damming Normahiggin (Clear 
Stream) Brook. There is good bass-fishing in the lake. 
Along the mill-stream was an Indian burying-ground. 



54 

On Watchung Mountain, two miles north of West- 
field, is Baltus Roll, a clearing with a few cottages, named 
after an old man who many years ago was murdered there 
in his hut. From this clearing one has a view across the 
plain to New York Bay; the Statue of Liberty, the 
Bridge, and other prominent points being easily dis- 
cernible. The panorama is almost as grand as that from 
Washington Rock (p. 58). 

FANWOOD. — Here is the station for Scotch Plains, 
a settlement founded by Scots in 1684. The Baptist 
Church, dating from 1742, was the parent of the first 
Baptist Church in New York. The pretty little village 
nestles in the bosom of Watchung. Fan wood itself, is 
a park-like place of residences among beautifully laid 
out grounds and has an air of elegance and refinement. 
It boasts a fine club-house with bowling-alleys, billiard- 
room, etc. Taken all in all, Fanwood is a little gem. 

In the valley beyond the notch at Scotch Plains, is 
Feltville, once romantically known as the "Deserted 
Village," because, when the factory there ceased opera- 
tions, it and the dwellings about it were vacated. It is 
now a pretty place of residence called Glenside. Fan- 
wood is the nearest station to it. Feltville Lake is a 
very pretty sheet of water. 

NETHER WOOD.— This is also a park, with a number 
of attractive residences and several large villas. In ad- 
dition, however, it has the most spacious and best kept 
hotel in Central New Jersey — the " Netherwood," a 
large brick building, with tiled floors, rooms of ample 
dimensions, and a broad, lofty piazza, which affords a 
pleasant promenade in the cool of the evening. Being 
within forty-five minutes of New York, it enjoys an un- 
usually long season, and is a spring and fall, as well as 
a summer resort for New York business men and their 
families, generally opening about May 1st, and not clos- 



do 

ing until October 1st or even well into that month, ac- 
cording to the state of the weather. It is a clean, 

roomy, comfortable hotel, with a plain but excellent 
table, and for its rates ($2.00-$3.00 a day for tran- 
sients, with reductions for those remaining a week or 
longer) furnishing extraordinarily good accommodations. 
The " Netherwood " is one of the few hotels near New 
York open during the spring and fall, and, as we are 
beginning to appreciate more and more the charms of 
country life during blossom-month, when all Nature is 
in an ecstatic tremor ; and also during September and 
October, when Autumn flings a mantle of yellow and 
crimson over mountain and plain — and on no mountain 
is she more lavish with her colors than on Watch ung, 
which glows ali day long like a slice of sunset.cut from 
the previous evening's sky — Netherwood should become 
as much of a resort in spring and autumn as it is in 
summer. Indeed, it is a question if, with a toboggan 
slide and an artificial sheet of ice for skating, it could 
not be made a winter resort, especially as the mountain 
must somewhat protect the place from the blasts of the 
northwest winds. 

DRIVES. — The roads for miles around Netherwood 
are macadamized, and kept in excellent condition. A 
favorite drive is over the Johnston road, which ascends 
Watchung through the notch at Scotch Plains and then 
proceeds over the mountain, affording glimpses of the 
grand expanse of plain through the foliage until it 
descends into the pass back of Plainfleld, a short distance 
below Wetumpka Falls. These falls are well worth a visit, 
as they dash picturesquely over a rocky declivity, espec- 
ially after a heavy rain. They somewhat resemble But- 
termilk Falls, near Bound Brook (see illustration, p. 
63). Driving along Stony Brook toward Plainfleld, 
there is another pretty fall formed by a mill-dam (see 



56 

illustration, p. 57). Instead of taking the Johnston road 
one can continue through the notch to Feltville or 
Glenside (p. 54). The return from Glenside can be 
by way of Baltus Roll (p. 54). Often the drive to 
Glenside is extended on to Summit, and the return 
made through Springfield (p. 41), a route of about 
twenty miles. To Railway, seven miles, and to New 
Brunswick, ten miles, are also pleasant drives. A pic- 
turesque way of reaching New Brunswick, is to drive to 
Bound Brook, and then along the Raritan, returning 
the usual way (twenty-five miles). A very pretty circuit 
can be made by way of New Brooklyn and New Market 
ponds, through Dunellen to Washington Rock ^pp. 
58, Gl), continuing north and east through Washington- 
ville, in the pass back of Plainfield, which is reached 
by way of Wetumpka Falls (fourteen miles). This drive 
enables one to see the chief points of interest in this 
district. It should be taken on a clear afternoon, in 
order that the wonderful panorama from Washington 
Rock may be seen at its best (pp. 58 and 61, and 
illustration p. 61). Other points of interest are Chim- 
ney Rock and Buttermilk Falls, near Bound Brook (see 
pp. 62 and 63). 

Carriage Hire. — Single team $1.00, double team $2.00 
per hour; saddle horse, $3.00 for morning or afternoon ; 
board, $30.00 a month. 

PLAINFIELD.— Plainfield is one of the vigorously 
progressive places in New Jersey. It seems to enjoy 
continued prosperity. In 1860 it had a population of 
3,224 ; its population now numbers 13,000. Since 1870 
its valuation has risen from $3,102,295 to $5,712,115. 

It lies in the corner of three counties. Plainfield 
proper is part of Union, North Plainfield of Somerset 
and South Plainfield of Middlesex. North Plainfield is 
locally called "the Borough," but, practically, it and 




*J 



OLD friends' meeting-house. 




hBHMIMI^B^M^^B B f w l fc iBi l Mt i lMB 



57 

Plainfield form one place. Every resident of Plainfield 
knows, however, that politically they are separate. For, 
when the city " votes dry," the borough offers a place of 
refuge to those socially inclined, who can, from the 
northern bank of Green Brook, bid defiance to the re- 
formers on the southern bank. The brook, though a 
narrow dividing-line topographically, is a very broad one 
politically. 

Plainfield boasts a number of large manufacturing 
establishments, including machine-tool works, printing- 
press, clothing, air-pump and oil-cloth factories, foun- 
dries and grist-mills ; and it has several streets devoted 
to business of every variety. In its factories and stores it 
is a city, noi differing in its aspect from other flourish- 
ing cities of the same population ; but over the plain to 
the south is a broad band of residential streets, and 
toward Watchung on the north are many fine country 
places. 

Plainfield probably owes its prosperity equally to its 
business enterprise and its charms as a place of resi- 
dence. To begin with, it is a very healthful spot. The 
air is decidedly beneficial in pulmonary complaints. 
One of the highest New York authorities on those 
diseases has advised patients to go either to Colorado 
or Plainfield, speaking of Plainfield as "the Colo- 
rado of the East." It may be said to drain itself, 
for its soil is sand and gravel, so that this whole district 
can be likened to a huge patent filter. The roads are 
dry almost before it has stopped raining. There seems 
to be a steady flow of water under Plainfield from north 
to south. The matter was tested by pouring kerosene 
into a well in North Plainfield, and in due time the 
taste of the oil was communicated to several wells in 
the southerly part of the city. The residential part 
of Plainfield south of the railroad (which, by the way, 



58 

is elevated) is beautifully laid out. The streets run 
in broad avenues, shaded by superb trees, with lines of 
fine residences and ample, well-kept grounds on either 
side. Closely-trimmed lawns, flower-beds and shrubs 
vary the level expanse. This part of the city seems 
to have been developed as a whole, and with the one 
purpose of making it unsurpassed for spaciousness and 
beauty, a result which has certainly been attained. On 
the mountain side, north of the railroad, are a large 
number of handsome residences and extensive country 
places, that of Mr. John Taylor Johnston, formerly 
President of the Central Railroad Company of New 
Jersey, being considered one of the finest. 

Some of the grandest sites for residences, within a rea- 
sonable distance of New York, are on Watchung Moun- 
tain; but this fact does not seem to have been appreciated 
here as it has been at Orange, for instance, where along 
the top of the Orange Mountain (a continuation of 
Watchung) is a series of beautiful country places. 
Watchung Mountain is not broken up in peaks. Its top 
is a broad plateau. Wherever there is a break in the 
woods along its southern edge, as at Baltus Roll, near 
Westfield, at points on the Johnston drive, near Plain- 
field, and at Washington Rock, near Dunellen, one's 
vision is fairly astounded by the superb panorama, which 
gives a sweeping view across the plain to the Highlands 
of Navesink, Staten Island, New York Harbor, with the 
Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge and other prominent 
points, while in the foreground and middle distance are 
the tree-embowered towns and villages of the level land, 
which stretches out at one's feet, for a distance of some 
twenty miles. By thinning out the trees a little on the 
southerly edge and slope of Watchung, one could have 
a series of residence sites extending from Baltus Roll to 
Bound Brook, for twelve miles, each of which would 



59 

command a view equal to that to be had from Washing- 
ton Rock — a view famous all the country round. 

Plainfield offers other attractions as a place of resi- 
dence besides location and careful topographical devel- 
opment. Socially and intellectually it is a prominent 
locality. It has in the Job Male Library and Art 
Gallery, Park avenue and Eighth street, a public insti- 
tution which cannot fail to stimulate intellectual and 
artistic tastes. Here, besides a fine collection of books 
and of paintings by well-known foreign and native 
artists, is the Schoonmaker collection of porcelains and 
cloisonne, the rare pieces of the latter outnumbering 
those to be seen in any museum in Europe or America. 
In few places outside of the great cities can one have, as 
in Plainfield, a Sang-de-boeuf crackle vase for a near 
neighbor, or be on a footing of intimacy with a cloisonne 
jardiniere. 

Besides a number of excellent private schools, Plain- 
field has public schools which have elicited warm praise 
from the State authorities. The buildings are named 
the Washington, Franklin, Irving, Stillman and Bryant; 
the last, on East Sixth street, near Richmond, being 
well known and much admired in educational circles. 
The Chautauqua University also has its headquarters 
at Plainfield. 

There is an unusually good base-ball club, the Cres- 
cents, a large bicycle club, a flourishing bowling club, 
an amateur photographic association, whose members 
turn out excellent work, lawn tennis and athletic clubs, 
and a driving association with a driving park at Avon. 
There is quite a large German element in Plainfield, and 
the list of clubs would be incomplete without mention 
of the Turners, Saengers and Schuetzen. 

Plainfield has 4 Presbyterian, 4 Episcopal, 3 Baptist, 
2 Congregational, 1 Seventh-Day Baptist, 1 Methodist- 



60 

Episcopal, 1 Hicksite, 1 Friends and 2 Roman Catholic 
churches; and a Bethel Mission for colored people. The 
Young Men's Christian Association also has a flourishing 
branch. Muhlenberg Hospital is on Fourth street. 

There are fifty miles of macadamized roads around 
Plainfield. Drives and rates of carriage hire will be 
found under Netherwood (p. 56). 

Plainfield has such a vigorous, interesting present 
that it is difficult to realize its existence in any previous 
undeveloped state; and, indeed, though its history runs 
back over two centuries, there are few facts of note to 
chronicle. It was settled in 1684, the pioneers being 
Thomas Gordon, John Forbes, John Barclay and Robert 
Fullerton. The first frame house was put up in 1735; 
the first school-house (Front and Peace streets) in 1760; 
the first grist-mill in the same year on the upper mill- 
pond, being removed in 1790 to Somerset street, where, 
on the north bank of Green Brook, a barn is pointed out 
as the old building; the Friends' Meeting-House, which 
still stands in a shady nook on Peace street, in 1788; the 
first factory (hat) in 1808, when a post office was also 
established. Plainfield Township was created in 1846, 
and Plainfield became a city in I860. 

DUNELLEN. — Grant avenue and Evona are suburbs 
of Plainfield. Dunellen is named after Edward Dun- 
ham, of New Market, about a mile south of the railroad. 
About the year 1700, Dunham reproved some one for 
laboring on Sunday. Asked for his authority, he searched 
the Scriptures and became convinced that Sunday was not 
the Bible Sabbath. He founded a Seventh-Day Baptist 
congregation, which still exists, their first church having 
been built in 1736. On Saturday the church bell sum- 
mons the worshippers, and business in New Market is 
suspended until Sunday, when it is resumed with vigor. 
New Market is a pleasant annex to Dunellen. There is 





• \ % 


Si<-fi&**7K 




-ii-*" 


2M3& 






f~,' 








&+ 


" 






K . ' t 






'i »3r -''£1 


L 








If 










~ • :• \ Jllii 







61 

good fishing in the little pond (Spring Lake), which is 
connected with that at New Brooklyn by a stream deep 
enough for row-boats. 

There are at Dunellen a number of pretty residences. 
On the grounds of one of these is a genuine English 
bowling-green. Two interesting features of the place 
are Washington Rock and the ancient-looking Runyon 
House, which is passed on the way to the Rock. 
Washington Rock is an immense trap boulder on the 
southerly edge of Watchung, commanding a superb 
panoramic view across the plain to the coast, which is 
described, p. 58. 

In the spring of 1777, and the winter of '78-79, when 
Washington's army was at Bound Brook and the enemy 
at New Brunswick, a look-out was kept from the Rock, 
which commands a view of New Brunswick and the 
intervening country, so that Washington could be kept 
informed of every movement made by the British. He 
himself surveyed the country from this rock, a circum- 
stance to which, of course, it owes its name. 

BOUND BROOK.— So many trains pull in and out of 
Bound Brook daily as to make it an important railroad 
center. From here the fast Philadelphia, Baltimore, 
and Washington express trains dash southward over the 
Philadelphia and Reading track, and, on their return, 
rush toward New York at a rate of speed which brings 
Bound Brook within forty-five minutes of the city. With 
its railroads, the Raritan Canal, and the Raritan River, 
it is small wonder that the town has taken on new life. 

It is delightfully situated, the rfrer offering facilities 
for boating and fishing, while but a mile from the station 
is our old friend Watchung, with an inviting slope for 
residences. The growth of the place within the last decade 
has been conservative but steady, among those settling 
there being men of substantial means who have identi- 



G2 

fied themselves with the place by aiding in developing 
its industrial resources'; not simply residing there and 
going to New York to business, but establishing manu- 
factories, so that there are now at Bound Brook woolen 
mills, brass works, and pump, paint, and car-heater and 
ventilator factories. There are water-works, and, though 
the place drains naturally to the river, several streets have 
already been sewered and the system is to be extended. 
Like Rip Van Winkle, the town has at last awakened, 
but, unlike Rip, appears rejuvenated after its long sleep. 

A prominent feature of the landscape around Bound 
Brook is a trap boulder on the east side of the entrance 
to the notch which leads into Washington Valley. 
From its peculiar shape it is called Chimney Rock, and, 
as it is painted white, it is conspicuous from many 
points. One can drive to the little cluster of houses and 
to the excursion grounds at the foot of the mountain, 
about one and a half miles north from Bound Brook, 
but, to reach the rock itself, it is necessary to ascend a 
steep and stony path. The view, however, up toward 
the valley, well repays the climb. The road curves 
around the foot of Round Top on the opposite side, and 
then disappears in the gorge whose winding course is 
marked out by the furrow in the soft green with which 
the mountain slopes on either side are bedecked. In 
the distance beyond this verdure are the blue hills of 
Morris County. 

After descending from Chimney Rock, it is worth 
while to ascend Round Top. For from here one can 
look up the gorge and see Middle Brook dashing over 
trie boulders at Buttermilk Falls and then rushing over 
its rocky bed through the notch into the plain, where 
it meanders tranquilly through the rich meadowland 
until its waters, having swelled the stream of Bound 
Brook, flow into the Ran tan, 



c£~ 



. 




63 

From the path at the foot of Chimney Rock a trail 
leads to Buttermilk Falls. Here, when it has been rain- 
ing sufficiently to cause a free overflow from the reservoir 
above, the water plunges over a wall of solid trap into a 
rocky basin, dashes in and out among boulders, frothing 
and foaming, as though with anger that anything should 
dare to check its course, and then rushes on with wild 
abandon through the gorge. With the wall of trap the 
sides of the basin form a horse-shoe, seemingly hewn 
out of solid rock by some titanic graver of pre-historic 
days. 

Revolutionary Memories. — Bound Brook is rich in 
Revolutionary memories. After Washington's master- 
ful strategy in crossing the Delaware and turning a 
retreat into victory at Princeton and Trenton, he 
marched, January 4, 1777, northward, crossed the Bar- 
itan and encamped at Somerset Court House (now Mill- 
stone), resuming his march the next day to Pluckamin, 
where- he halted two days. There died Capt. Leslie, a 
British officer, mortally wounded at Princeton. A plain 
monument marks his grave. From Pluckamin the 
army went into winter quarters at Morristown. 

The following spring (May 28th) Washington moved 
his headquarters to the ''Heights at Middlebrook " — 
Bound B"ook — in order to be within striking distance of 
the enemy at New Brunswick. A force under Gen. 
Lincoln had already been stationed there in April. His 
headquarters were in the only two-story house the vil- 
lage could boast. The location of Washington's forces 
was on the right of the road through the gorge in which 
Chimney Rock is situated, just where it rises up from 
the bed of the little stream to the level of Washington's 
Valley. All approaches were strongly guarded. Huts 
for the officers were built east of the rock at the edge of 
the woods. A redoubt commanding the bridge north of 
the railroad crossing was thrown up at Bound Brook, 
to check an attack from the direction of New Brunswick. 
On the apex of the Round Top, on the left of the Chim- 
ney Rock gorge, was a rude hut which Washington 
frequented during those anxious months, while on the 
east side of the gorge and fronting the plain, was Wash- 



64 

ington's Rock, both good points of lookout. June 13th 
the British moved from New Brunswick to Somerset Court 
House, and lay there till the 19th, when, finding that 
Washington could not be lured from his almost impreg- 
nable position, they returned to New Brunswick, which 
was evacuated June 22d, the enemy retreating to Amboy. 
Washington then moved down to Quibbletown (New 
Market). Howe, learning of this, made a sudden retro- 
grade movement; but, being met at every cross-road by 
small bodies of militia, who made all the resistance in their 
power, his manceuvers were checked and delayed until 
Washington became informed of them, and moved back 
to his former strong position. The British again turned 
on their weary inarch toward Amboy, harassed flank 
and rear by Scott's Light Horse and Morgan's Rangers. 

In December, the year following, a large portion of 
Washington's army went into winter quarters at Bound 
Brook. The artillery, under Knox, was posted in earth- 
works the remains of which may still be seen near Mar- 
tinsville, in Washington Valley; Washington and his 
wife occupied, until June, 1779, the Caleb Miller house 
at Somerville, where it may still be seen; and Baron 
Steuben's headquarters, the Abraham Staats house at 
Blooniington, near Bound Brook, is still standing. 
February 18th Knox gave a ball, supper, and a display of 
fireworks at Pluckamin, in honor of the anniversary of 
the alliance with France. Late in April a review and 
parade were held in honor of Mr. Gerard, the French 
minister, and Don Juan de Miralles, an unofficial agent 
of Spain. After the military display Washington, his 
generals and the foreign guests were entertained by 
Steuben at dinner, the table being spread under the 
trees in front of the baron's headquarters.* 

The Staats house, where Steuben had his headquarters, 
is one of the most interesting relics of the Revolution. 
For, as it has remained in the possession of descendents 
of the family, it still presents much the same appear- 
ance as in 1778-'79. Though it has been added to, the 
exterior of the old portion is entirely unchanged, and 
the interior is filled from parlor to garret with old 
furniture and china, which the family have taken great 
pride in preserving. The house, a long, rambling 

* See "The Story of an Old Farm," by A. D. Mellick, Jr. 



65 

white building, stands on what is now the Latourette 
farm, on the south bank of tiie Raritan. A lane leads 
from the road to the grounds, shaded by trees under 
which, in the spring of 1779, Steuben entertained Wash- 
ington and his Generals at dinner. The present parlor* 
is the old dining-room. Here are chairs which were in 
the house during the Revolution, and china and glass- 
ware in a deep, quaintly arched closet with doors shaped 
like church windows — among the glasses being one 
which Washington drank from, while the whole table 
service, table and chairs must have been used by 
Steuben and his guests, one of whom doubtless Wash- 
ington often was. There are also several pieces of old 
china on the mantle over the fire-place, among them 
statuettes of Minerva and Milton, which, with many 
other articles of fine ware, were buried near the house by 
a New Brunswick merchant, who feared the British 
would loot his store and who, when he dug up his stock, 
presented these statuettes to the Staats. The portraits 
of the old couple — kind-looking souls — hang on the 
parlor wall. While a modern range has been placed in 
the kitchen, the grand old fire-place has not been bricked 
up, and there still hangs the old crane, huge enough to 
serve as a derrick. On the landing of one of the six 
flights of stairs, leading from the ground floor to the 
second story, is an old clock. Many of the bedsteads 
have high posterns. Among the furniture is a chair 
which, it is claimed, was in the Mayflower. Five gen- 
erations of the family have been born in this house. 

Another interesting building is the old Fisher tavern 
at Middle Brook, which is virtually part of Bound Brook. 
It stands at the railroad crossing just south of the tracks. 
It was a tavern during the Revolution and is still one, 
being kept, and well too, by a grand-niece of the Revolu- 
tionary proprietor. It is alow, dun-colored house, directly 
on the street, with a quaintly slatted well at its western 
end. The low ceiling of the tap-room is indented by 
bayonet points and gun muzzles; and in the room above 
the first Masonic lodge in the United States was organized. 

On the road to Finderne, on an elevation back of the 
mill, north of the railroad crossing, there stands among 
tall pines a long, low, ramshackle structure, known as 
the Van Horn house. During the Revolution this was 
occupied by the Herberts, who rejoiced in five pretty and 



6G 

engaging daughters. Old Herbert kept open house for 
friend and foe alike, his hospitality to British officers 
at times bringing down upon him the contempt of his 
patriotic neighbors. But, by the end of the war, his 
daughters were, between officers of the two armies, not 
only engaging but engaged, a state of affairs as satis- 
factory to the hospitable father as to the young ladies 
themselves. Whether the marriages were three to two 
in favor of the American forces, or whether the enemy 
carried off the larger share of the fair booty, history un- 
fortunately does not record. For Washington's head- 
quarters, see pp. 67, 68. 

S0MERV1LLE.— At Finderne, a station between 
Bound Brook and Soraerville, are several large stock- 
farms, the country throughout this section affording ex- 
cellent pasturage. During Washington's winter en- 
campment General and Mrs, Greene resided at the Van 
Veghten house, a brick structure erected early in the 
last century, on the llaritan, a short distance southwest 
of the Finderne railway station. A brigade was en- 
camped near by. Major Henry Lee, "Light Horse 
Harry," was quartered at the Herbert house ; and it was 
probably during this encampment he first met Mrs. 
General Greene, at whose house he died (four years after 
her own death), and by whose side he lies buried, in a 
little coquina-walied graveyard hidden in the depths of 
an olive grove and surrounded by tropical fruits and 
flowers.* Soraerville is the county-seat of Somerset, 
and is the trading center of a large agricultural dis- 
trict. When a Soraerville citizen wishes to especially 
emphasize his unwillingness to perform some act, he 
asseverates that he " wouldn't do it for a farm." This 
is a great horse-breeding country, being well watered, 
and clothed with a mantle of soft, succulent grass, a 
pretty feature of the landscape being the Raritan River. 

*See "The Story of an Old Farm," by A. D, Mellick, Jr. 




BUTTERMILK FALLS. 



G7 

The conversation around the stoves in the various hostel- 
ries turns upon horses. The men either have been to 
see a horse or are going to see one the next day; and a 
quaint old farmer remarked, as a long funeral passed the 
hotel, that, if the mourners had turned out for the 
deceased's gelding " who'd well nigh gotten down to 2.18 
just before he broke down and had to be shot," instead 
of for the deceased himself, he "could ha' understood it 
belter." If the talk drifts back to old staging days, as 
it is sure to do, you hear of the driver, living still in 
hale and hearty old age, who would beat the rival stage, 
no matter how many horses he'd kill; who once drove 
sixteen horses from Elizabeth to Newark on a wager, and 
who of a winter night would harness up eight horses to 
a sleigh and take the young folks for a spin over the 
crisp, moonlit snow. 

Early in October the Somerset County Fair attracts 
people from all over the surrounding country to Somer- 
ville, and horse-talk is somewhat varied with pumpkin 
and butter lore. 

There are excellent stores in Somerville, first-rate 
schools, and many pretty dwellings; and, with its 
charming location, among rolling meadowland watered 
by rills from the hills to the north and by the Raritan, 
it forms a fitting terminus to the chain of delightful 
cities, towns and villages, which the suburban system of 
the Central Railroad of New Jersey links together. 

From Somerville a branch railroad runs through a rich 
agricultural district to Fleinington, which is to Hunter- 
don County what Somerville is to Somerset. The inter- 
mediate stations are Roycefield, Flagtown, Neshanic, 
Woodfern, and Three Bridges. 

While the American army was in camp at Bound 
Brook, Washington had his headquarters at a house in 
Somerville, now known as the Caleb Miller house. It 



08 

is a plain white clap-boarded dwelling, with a porch 
supported by two old-fashioned fluted columns. It 
has a large square hall overlooked by a long gallery 
formed by the landing of the staircase. The only Revolu- 
tionary relic is in the room which Washington and his 
wife occupied. This is a fire-place framed with tiles on 
which Biblical scenes are depicted in blue and white. 

RARITAN. — A short distance above here the North 
and South Branches of the Raritan unite, and the river 
is tapped by a water-power company, which supplies 
some half a dozen manufactories. These are flourishing 
and give some indication of the future prosperity of the 
place. The brick house on the north bank of the Raritan 
was built long before the Revolution, but, while most 
charmingly old-fashioned outside, the interior has been 
completely stripped of everything old. A debtor, who 
was hounded by creditors, once occupied this house. He 
had painted on the outside of the doors of four of the 
upstairs rooms respectively "New York," "Boston," 
"Philadelphia" and " Washington," and, when a cred- 
itor called, he would be informed that the man he 
wanted to see was in "New York," or another of the 
places mentioned according to the room in which he had 
secreted himself. 

Simcoe's Raid. — Simcoe's raid, one of the most dashing 
exploits of the Revolution on the British side, extended 
as far as Raritan. It was daringly conceived and bril- 
liantly executed almost to the end, when it was over- 
taken by disaster. Simcoe's force consisted chiefly of 
American Tories, known as the "Queen's Rangers." 
October 26, 1779, the party landed at Elizabeth/ The 
object was to proceed swiftly to Van Veghten's bridge, 
over the Raritan near Finderne, there to destroy the 
flat-boats left by Washington; to make a circuit around 
New Brunswick, then show themselves to the Americans, 
and fall back toward South River Bridge where troops 
under Major Armstrong lay in ambush, ready to capture 



69 

the pursuing Americans. In order to avoid having the 
Americans at New Brunswick receive notice of the raid 
Simcoe's men, being accoutred similarly to Lee's Legion, 
pretended that they belonged to the American army and 
were in pursuit of a party of Tories. They were so daring 
as to stop at a Continental forage depot, assume the 
character of Lee's cavalry, wake up the commissary 
about midnight, draw the customary allowance for for- 
age, and give the usual vouchers. 

A country lad, deceived by this ruse, led the party to 
one of Washington's old camps at Bound Brook, but 
Simcoe found it impracticable to burn the huts. At 
Van Veghten's bridge they set fire to and destroyed 
eighteen boats, burned the old Dutch meeting-house 
built in 1721 at Raritan, and the Somerset County Court 
House. But in manceuvering to make a circle around 
New Brunswick, they missed the particular cross-road 
Simcoe had planned to take. The country having mean- 
while become alarmed, small detachments of militia 
were hovering around him. One of these detachments 
formed an ambuscade near DeMott's tavern, two miles 
west of New Brunswick, and firing upon the Rangers, 
killed Simcoe's horse, made a prisoner of Simcoe himself 
and dispersed his followers. 

RARITAN TO PHILLIPSBURG— From Raritan 

to Phillipsburg the settlements have few interests other 
than local. The country, however, becomes more moun- 
tainous and the scenery more romantic and picturesque. 
The stations are at North Branch, White House, Leb- 
anon, Annandale, Clinton, High Bridge, Glen Gardner, 
Junction, Asbury, Valley, Bloomsburv and Springtown. 
At White House the railroad commands a view of 
Cushetunk mountain, south-west of the tracks, and runs 
along its northeastern base to Lebanon. This is a curi- 
ous ridge, shaped like an oval dish with a deep depres- 
sion between the sides, completely closed except to the 
west, where, however, two hills nearly complete the cir- 
cuit. This mountain incloses a nest of pretty farms in 
what is aptly named Round Valley. 



TO 

The whole outward slope of Cushetunk offers fine 
opportunities for country residence, especially for gen- 
tlemen stock-farmers, as they can have their pastures on 
the rolling meadows, and their residences on the raoun- 
taii. bide. 

From White House the Rockaway Valley Railroad 
connects with the Jersey Central, opening up a section 
rich in lime. About half a mile west of the station and 
a little north of the railroad is a stone house, bearing 
date 1757, and the initials C. V. H. This was built by 
a German " redemptioner," one of the "white slaves" 
of New Jersey, who bound themselves for a certain 
number of years to whoever paid their passage money. 
The vicinity of Annandale (Clinton) is also rich in 
lime. 

At High Bridge the North Branch of the Raritan 
descends from German Valley through a gorge, which, 
for wild beauty, has not its equal within the same dis- 
tance of New York, nor perhaps for many miles further 
around the city. Excepting Lake Ilopatcong, it is prob- 
ably the most romantic feature of the inland landscape 
of New Jersey. It is so strikingly beautiful that the rail- 
road company at one time intended to lay out excursion 
grounds through the glen, but finally decided upon Lake 
Hopatcong as more desirable. The High Bridge branch 
of the Central Railroad of New Jersey ascends to the 
level of German Valley through this gorge. 

The river furnishes fine water-power at High Bridge. 
Since 1758 it has been utilized in the Taylor Iron Works. 
Here cannon balls were cast for the American army dur- 
ing the Revolution, and carted to Trenton, New Bruns- 
wick and Philadelphia. Part of the Taylor mansion 
was built in 1725. One of the rooms was occupied, dur- 
ing the Revolution, by John Penn, the last Colonial 
Governor of Pennsylvania, and his Attorney-General, 



Chew. The manufacture of plumbago is extensively 
carried on here. 

Between High Bridge and Glen Gardner is another 
stretch of picturesque country, the railroad looking down 
on its southerly side upon a glen through which the 
little stream of Spruce Run speeds on its way towards 
the North Branch of the Raritan. At Junction connec- 
tion is made with the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western 
Railroad. A short distance above Junction the railroad 
swings into the lovely Musconetcong Valley and passes 
through Asbury, Valley, Blooinsbury and Springtown 
to Phillipsburg. About a mile below Bloomsbury, in 
the bed of the Musconetcong, is Butler's Hole, said to 
be sixty feet deep. In a huge boulder opposite are 
several mould-like depressions. There is a tradition that 
here Spanish buccaneers melted their ill-gotten spoils 
into ingots, which they hid in the bottom of the river. 

Phillipsburg was named after the Indian King Philip. 
It is beautifully situated on the east shore of the Dela- 
ware. Here was a favorite fishing-ground of the Indians. 
Mount Lebanon and Reese's Rock (Mount Parnassus), 
command superb views of the river. 

For a long time Phillipsburg was a struggling suburb 
of Easton, but, since it has become a focal point for 
several important railroads, which penetrate into the 
coal and iron fields of Pennsylvania, it has become a 
flourishing place of manufacture, especially in iron. 

From here the Central Railroad of New Jersey crosses 
to Easton, entering there on its Pennsylvania division, 
which leads to Bethlehem, Allentown, Siegfried, Mauch 
Chunk, Wilkesbarre, Scranton and Tamaqua — the rich 
coal and iron fields of Pennsylvania. 



CHAPTER V. 

SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN. 



From High Bridge the Central Railroad of New Jersey 
sends a spur to the north into the very heart of the 
mining section of New Jersey. Ascending the beau- 
tiful gorge of the North Branch of the Raritan River, 
it enters German Valley, which lies between School - 
ey's Mountain and the Chester Hills. This is a rich 
agricultural district and especially devoted to peach- 
growing. From the first station, Califon, 150,000 
baskets of peaches are shipped every season. On the 
mountain side much hard wood for wagons and interiors 
is cut, portable saw mills being used; and a wall on one 
of the finest places on Rumson Neck is built of granite 
from one of the several rich quarries reached by this 
branch. There are also extensive lime quarries in the 
valley, especially at Vernoy, the second stop. At Mid- 
dle Valley are several large creameries. From German 
Valley a branch runs to Chester and Haeklebarney, the 
former the center of a large peach-growing district, the 
latter a mining settlement, the mine machinery being- 
worked by water power. 

CHESTER.— The village of Chester was formerly 
called Black River, after a tributary of the North Branch 
of the Raritan. Under the reign of Queen Anne, about 
1713, this tract was settled by emigrants from Long 
Island, among whom were the ancestors of Lincoln's 
Secretary of State, Wm. H. Seward. Tradition confers 
special distinction upon one Deacon Fairclo as the 
father of twenty-one children : — the climate is still as 
invigorating as it was in those days. 

At the time of the first settlement there were no turn- 



r 



g-denshufg-b 

1124 



T 



mtK Holland/ IIT .. A 

v P Wallace\ m 

(•X>GDEN ifo'6 Corny" 

y i ^/944% 



■0 

Clinl07i 



y /I \/ l A * 



1300 
1252 

/ 

Woodpotfe- 
/ W 



MiUm 






195 ft 1151 



X 



Mbo^ing green y ^\/0^\ ^py ; *° 



Wei don /^°/ <** 

mountain / y « v 

*<C X •«/ « 
Tipper / v o 

Long wood/ ^?S o 

Dpnncrurk 

S'fr/'J/y f Hil/Sfni 
La K e £//flMdlJForgk O 

\Berk k WvW<¥ jy&?V G 



f. pW 




903 









ille 



77 7 



•#' 



)0W RooAton 



:>- 



M.. 



i > 



U' 



^: 



77^2 y k?,'' ^ 
Vqlttis \ jr i 



'y^ffiqnklin j^'^fc 
to 

983' 



709 



]1025 

frofda 



Q, 



ium 



>A^Y Jlalapardu 
-"" I t\tX.A%^- C^J-b 493 J A i0 { t, 




73 

pikes, the travel being by bridle paths ever the hills 
through dense woods. As late as 1768, Rev. William 
Woodhull, who opened a school which was attended, 
among others, by Mahlon Dickerson, who became Secre- 
tary of the Navy under Jackson, entered Black River 
on horse-back with his wife and child riding behind him. 
As early as 1745 and 1747 respectively, a Presbyterian 
and a Congregational Church were erected, the first 
pastor of the former being Rev. Samuel Harcour, who, 
.for doctrinal errors, was deposed from the ministry in 
1763, the case being cited by Hodge as an interesting 
illustration of early Presbyterian rigor. 

The hills about Chester are rich in deposits of mag- 
netic iron ore which, being low in phosphorus, is valu- 
able for the manufacture of Bessemer steel. The forge 
at Hacklebarney has been in operation for more than a 
century. 

From German Valley, Schooley's Mountain (p. 76) 
is reached by stage. German Valley was settled by 
exiles from Saxony. When Frederic August, Elec- 
tor of Saxony, renounced Protestantism in 1697, many 
of his subjects removed to Neuwied, Prussia; thence to 
Holland: and in 1707 to America. The vessel's course 
was laid for New York, but adverse winds drove it into 
Delaware Bay. The emigrants reached Philadelphia and 
started for New York, but impressed with the fertility of 
German Valley they remained there. The Lutheran 
Church has existed since 174o. In the old church there 
was originally -no fire-place nor chimney, just a hole in 
the roof, the fire being made on the floor, and in murky 
weather the congregation had difficulty in determining 
whether it was suffering more from the long sermon, or 
from the smoke which filled the building. 

In the North Branch of the Raritan, near Naughright, 
there is fine trout fishing. At Bartley's are a well- 
known manufacturer of turbine wheels and a saw mill; 
and also good creameries. Fire sand is found in abun- 
dance at Flanders and Cary's. This is used in puddling- 



74 

furnaces because, as it is infusible, it catches the scrap. 
From Drakesville the railroad traverses the plains of 
Succasunna to Kenvil, where there is an important dyna- 
mite factory, which does business as far west as the 
Rockies; another establishment of the company sup- 
plying the Pacific Coas e . 

On the mountains, on either side of the German Val- 
ley, there is excellent quail and partridge shooting. 
At Flanders, which is the station for Budd's Lake 
(p. 86), and a good trout stream comes down Schooley's 
Mountain. 

v At Kenvil there is a junction for Lake Hopatcong and 
the Ogden Mine Railroad ; and for Port Oram, Dover and 
Rockaway, where connection is made with the Hibernia 
Mine Railroad; while, between Kenvil and Lake Hopat- 
cong, connection is made with the Morris County and 
Green Pond Mine Railroad for Lake Denmark, Green 
Pond, and the Mount Hope Mines. Denmark is a pretty 
sheet of water among the mountains, and Green Pond 
boasts one of the nobler features among the Highlands. 
The mountain seems to have been cleft in two, one side 
thrown over to the east, while to the west there re- 
mained standing a sheer, high wall of trap rock, three 
miles long, and at- points almost as grand as the 
Palisades of the Hudson. 

Port Oram is a recent settlement, dating back only to 
18G8. It is actively engnged in raining and manufactur- 
ing. The famous Richard Mine yields 05 per cent, of 
metallic iron, which runs in a vein sixteen feet broad. 
There is also a silk-mill where silk mufflers are made. 

Dover is the center of the mining district. It also 
manufactures mining machinery, which is shipped all the 
way to Colorado. Silk-mills are also in operation there. 
It is on the Rockaway River, which supplies fine water- 
power. On the site of Dover there were already in 1722 



75 

a forge and several dwellings. A Quaker meeting-house 
stood there in 1748 or even earlier. 

At Rockaway there are a foundry, a factory for rock- 
crushers, stampers and separators, and also knitting- 
milk. The places named, besides being flourishing 
manufacturing localities, are pleasantly situated for 
residence. 

The iron industry of Morris County dates back into 
the seventeenth century, at least by implication. In 
1714, the tract embracing the Dickerson Mine was 
taken up because of its minerals from the proprietors 
of West Jersey by John Reading: and tradition affirms 
that previous to that date, probably as far back as the 
latter part of the preceding century, there were forges 
ill operation, whose owners helped themselves to the ore 
without stint or charge. Indian arrow-heads and 
utensils made of iron, show that the aborigines under- 
stood its uses, and they had given the name Succasunna, 
meaning " black" or " heavy stone," to a district near 
the mine where the village of Succasunna still flourishes. 

The first forge of which we have somewhat exact 
knowledge was built in 1710, at Whippany, whither the 
ore was brought from the Succasunna district in leather 
bags on horse-back. 

On what is still called Jackson's Brook, in Dover, a 
forge was built by John Jackson in 1722, other forges 
having meanwhile started up at Morristown. This Dover 
forge, or the " Quaker Iron Works," as it is called in a 
deed of 1743, became in 1761 the property of Josiah 
Beman. About 1730 a forge was built at Rockaway by 
Jacob Ford, who subsequently built also at Mt. Pleasant 
and Denmark, and at what became known as Middle 
Forge, half-way between these two. The Rockaway 
forge still exists. 

Weldon Forge was built about 1800 by Moses Hopping; 
Hurd Forge by Daniel and Joseph Hurd about 1795. 
There were also forges on the North Branch of the 
Raritan, near Budd's Lake, Bartley's and Flanders, but 
they have long since gone to decay. 

The Dover Iron Company is the third oldest slitting or 
rolling-mill erected in Morris County. Between 1749 
and the ^breaking out of the Revolution, there was a 



76 

prohibitory act of Parliament. Nevertheless, about 1770, 
David Ogden began carrying on slitting in secret at Old 
Boonton, the works being underneath a grist mill. Gov. 
William Franklin visited the place for the purpose of in- 
vestigating the alleged fraud, but as Ogden took the pre- 
caution to dine the Governor before he went over the 
premises, the representative of His Majesty actually 
waxed indignant at the unfounded slander. Next in 
point of time was the famous Speedwell Mill near 
Morristown, where subsequently Professor Morse and 
the Vails made so many interesting experiments in 
putting the former's telegraphic theories into practical 
operation. The mill at Dover was erected in 1792 by a 
firm which purchased the Beman Forge. The Rockaway 
rolling-mill was built in 1822. 

SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN.— Schooley's Mountain 
is a range some sixteen miles long, 1,200 feet above tide- 
water, and overlooking the Musconetcong Valley on tho, 
north and German Valley on the south. It has the pe- 
culiar characteristic that, instead of rising in peaks, its 
top is a plateau of rich farm lands and forest, averaging 
one and a quarter miles in width. Beautiful views may 
be had from various points on the edge of this plateau, 
and also from the road crossing the mountain between 
German Valley and Hackettstown, and running through 
the village of Schooley's Mountain and past the noted 
Chalybeate Spring. This road is a branch of an old 
post-route between New York and Easton via Elizabeth- 
port, and this point for crossing the mountain was doubt- 
less selected because of a slight depression in the plateau. 
The draught of air through this depression and the alti- 
tude combine to make Schooley's Mountain a pleasantly 
cool resort, and, as the air is dry and bracing, and the 
Chalybeate Spring very effective in certain drseases and 
invigorating in all cases, the place is a health resort as 
well as a summer retreat. 

Schooley's Mountain Village is one of the oldest sum- 
mer resorts in the United States. Indeed, it was a health 



77 

resort before there was a United States, for the Chaly- 
beate Spring was famed already among the Indians for its 
valuable curative properties. The Pennsylvania tribes 
sent for its waters, and Tedveesung, the renowned king 
of the Lenni Lenape, is said to have always kept his 
camp-fires burning within three miles of it, in order that 
he might lesort to it at any time. There is also a tradi- 
tion that the spring became known to the whites only 
through chance, the Indians keeping its existence a pro- 
found secret, and the whites first learning of it through 
a hunter, who, coming upon it, quenched his thirst from 
the rill and, noticing the peculiar mineral taste, reported 
his discovery. 

It is certain that there was a hotel here as early as 
1795. The old building still forms part of the Heath 
House. It is appropriately called the "Alpha." In it 
are still several old mirrors and pieces of furniture, relics 
of the hotel accomodations of an American summer re- 
sort of the last century. 

When the road across Schooley's became a regular 
turnpike and post-route in 1809, the mountain was one 
of the most famous summer resorts in the United States. 
It is spoken of by the French scientist, Milbert, in his 
" Itineraire Pittoresque du Fleuve Hudson et des Parties 
Laterales," the author having made his trip in 1815. 
The description is embellished with two engravings, one 
of the rock from which the spring flowed there was then 
no spring-house or basin), the other of the cataract, still 
a natural feature of great beauty. In a circular issued 
by the Heath House in 1828, the proprietor offers as one 
of the chief inducements to visitors the " opportunity of 
associating with company the most gay and fashion- 
able" ; and this statement is borne out by the old regis- 
ters preserved in the hotel office in whicli the names of 
the leading New York, Philadelphia and New Jersey 
families of the day are found. These traveled in their 
own carriages with their servants and domestic pets, us- 
ually taking two days for the journey, though the trip 
from New York to Easton could be made in one day by 
stage, as appears from an advertisement of McCowy, 
Drake & Co., April 26, 1828, who advertised t heir stages 
"to run through in one day and by daylight" from New 
York to Easton via Elizabethport. Morristown and 
Schooley's Mountain Springs. People of moderate as 



78 

well as those of large means came to the spring, the 
former pitching tents or erecting temporary shanties in 
its vicinity, so anxious were they to take advantage of 
its curative properties. 

The spring is about half a mile from the hotels and 
Sehooley's Mountain Village. It is on a high rock to the 
right of the road from Hackettstown, and the water now 
led through a pipe into a basin around which a summer- 
house has been built. Glasses can be obtained for a 
small fee in a neighboring house, but visitors are 
advised to take them from their hotel or cottage. The 
water can also be ordered at the hotels. It is espe- 
cially recommended for calculus, kidney complaints, 
torpor of the liver and as a tonic. 

It was analysed early in the century by distinguished 
chemists, who also testified that it was the purest chaly- 
beate water in the United States. Following is the 
latest analysis by Dr. T. M. (Joan : 

Solids. Grains per gallon. 

Sodium bicarb 0.58 

Magnesium carb 1.60 

1 ron carb 0.58 

Calcium carb 1.42 

Culcium sulph 1.68 

Alumina 0.14 

Silicic acid 0.74 

Sodium chloride 0.43 

7.17 
with a trace of Manganese Carbonate and of Ammonia. 
The " Alpha," mentioned above, was probably a road- 
house, flourishing on the patronage bestowed upon it by 
the passengers of the stages which followed the post- 
route across the mountain. It is even said to have been 
a "jug-tavern," similar to those which in olden times 
flourished among the Jersey Pines, and which owed their 
peculiar name to the fact that their whole stock in trade 
consisted of a jug of apple-jack, from which, however, 
any liquor called for by a customer was poured. It was 



79 

simply apple-jack under another name. It was thus 
possible for a wood-ranger on Schooley's Mountain to be 
all his life long the victim of a spirituous delusion — a 
condition of affairs which, however, does not now exist 
even in the most remote corner of New Jersey. 

As the Schooley's Mountain Spring became more 
famous, the jug-tavern and road-house improved in 
character. Additions were made until some 350 guests 
could be accommodated, and the original little building 
seemed so remote an object in history, that it was dubbed 
the "Alpha," pretty much as if it were the very begin- 
ning 1 of creation. It is thought to be, and probably is, 
the oldest summer-resort building in the United States. 

The buildings of the Heath House are all old-fashioned 
and ample, standing in spacious, pleasantly shaded 
grounds — some twenty-five acres in extent. Near the 
main entrance to these grounds, to the right walking 
from the house, is a group of huge boulders, all of strik- 
ing shapes and one of them appropriately named the 
Devil's Arm-chair. Tradition says that the Indians often 
gathered here in council, the Chief presiding in the 
Devil's Arm-chair. The Heath House is comfortably 
furnished; the table is plain but plentiful. It makes no 
pretence of affording fashionable amusement, but seeks 
rather to attract those who find recreation in restful 
quiet, and are satisfied with home-like accommodations. 
Among its guests are several who have made it their 
summer retreat for over thirty years. Perhaps the fairest 
idea of the character of the accommodations, service and 
table can be given by saying that these are excellent for 
the prices charged, which are as follows : $12.00 to 
$14.00 each adult per week for single rooms; double 
rooms, two persons, $24.00 to $28.00 per week ; double 
rooms, one person, $18.00 to $21.00 per week; one 
week and less than two weeks, $2.00 per day; $7.00 
per week for children and nut ses taking their meals at 
the children's table; for children under twelve years cf 



80 

age, taking their meals at the public table, $10.00 per 
week; all over twelve years, full price. Nurse with in- 
fant, occupying room on guest's floor, will be charged as 
one person. Transient guests, $2.50 per day. Livery, 
bowling-alleys and billiard-room are connected with the 
hotel, and there is a tennis-court. There is a stage for 
private theatricals, and a dark-room for amateur photo- 
graphers. Rates of carriage hire are as follows: Budd's 
Lake, $6.00; Hackettstown, $3.00; double team, $1.50 
an hour; single team, $1.00 for first hour, 75 cents an 
hour afterwards. Stage between hotel and either rail- 
road station, 50 cents. 

Another hotel, the old Belmont Hall, changed hands 
last spring, and is now called the Dorincourt. It is a 
fine building, and its proprietors purpose to cater more 
to the fashionable element. It was not completed until 
late last season, and could not be put in good running 
order ; so it would hardly be fair to rate it in this edi- 
tion. 

Schooley's Mountain has some peculiar characteristics. 
The hotels are 1,200 feet above the sea, the air is dry 
and cool, especially at night, yet the immediate sur- 
roundings do not offer the slightest suggestion of a 
mountainous district. This is due to the fact that the 
land does not rise to a peak but to a broad plateau, 
given over to farms and woodland, so that it has the 
appearance of a fertile agricultural district rather than 
of a mountain. It is only from points along the edge 
of the plateau which command views over the Musco- 
netcong or German Valleys that one can realize the 
elevation. The hotels, having begun as road-houses, 
were built at points along the post-route over the 
mountain where it would be convenient for the stages 
to stop. The idea of locating them where they would 
command one or another of the beautiful vistas to be 



Hill 



• ■*: ;," ! ^ 



: t 



■ 









] 4 ■ i ': 



CATARACT— SCHOOLEY's MOUNTAIN. 



81 

had almost within a stone's throw, did not occur to their 
proprietors. They were built about half-way between 
German Valley and Hackettstown, where the road is 
fairly level and the stages could easily stop, enough time 
having elapsed since they left the valley for the driver 
(certainly) and some, if not all the passengers, to have 
become thirsty and possibly hungry. Hence there are 
many points on the edge of the plateau which, though 
they command superb views and seem to have been es- 
pecially designed for summer hotel sites, are still unoc- 
cupied. Until these have been visited, a sojourner at 
Schooley's Mountain does not begin to realize its attrac- 
tions; but, as he gradually discovers them and the gush- 
ing mountain streams and water-falls within easy driving 
and walking distance from the hotels, he begins to appre- 
ciate the fact that no resort so near New York offers such 
a variety of mountain scenery. Moreover, as several of 
these spots are known to but few, whoever will start out 
in search of Basin Rock, the Point or "Pint" Mill, 
Eagle's Nest, Bald Mountain, Prospect Hill, the Cata- 
ract, or Striker's Falls, can do so with something of the 
importance and zest of a discovefer. Sitting on a hotel 
piazza reading a pink, blue or yellow-covered novel; 
riding two or three times around "the circle"; taking 
the least interesting of the drives about Schooley's Moun- 
tain — that to Budd's Lake — because it seems to be the 
only one anybody knows anything about; strolling down 
to the spring-house and back — doing these and similar 
things is not the sum of enjoyment one can derive from 
a visit to this resort. Yet, but little more is done — and 
no wonder ; for the very people who are most interested 
in making the beauties of Schooley's Mountain known 
to the hotel guests, do not themselves know even of the 
existence of these attractions. 

A lovely glimpse of the valley of the Musconetcong is 



82 

had from a point called Valley View, barely more than 
200 rods in front of the hotel. Here you stand at the 
apex of a clove running up from the valley. It is a 
narrow opening, intercepted here and there by wooded 
promontories, and musical with the rushing waters of a 
brook completely hidden from view by the foliage. At 
the foot of the clove lies the Musconetcong Valley, with 
the steeples of Hackettstown peeping out from among 
the trees that shade its streets, the hills beyond forming 
a picturesque background with their fertile slopes, here 
yellow with grain, there green with corn, and dotted with 
white farm-houses or red barns. The point from which 
this view is obtained is shaded by a clump of trees, grow- 
ing up among boulders whose gray tones, lit up now and 
then by glints of sunshine, harmonize with the cool 
shadow of the foliage; and, to one looking out from this 
recess, the glimpse of valley and distant hills, at the 
end of the soft, green slopes of the clove, seems unusu- 
ally bright and friendly. 

Another point of interest of easy access from the 
hotels — about a mile and a half — is the Cataract. To 
reach it take the Hackettstown road to a point a little 
below the Spring House, where a rough wood-road enters 
the woods to the right and crosses the brook. Follow 
this road, always keeping to the right, until a second 
brook is reached. A little way up this is the Cataract. 
Here there is an almost sudden descent of about 100 
feet from the plateau into the rocky clove up which we 
have followed the brook whose waters now come leap- 
ing down from boulder to boulder, sending their white 
spray flying in showers, rushing through crevasses, 
frothing up against the trunks of fallen trees and finally 
hurrying away through the clove toward the valley of 
of the Musconetcong. The ascent of the Cataract is best 
made on the left. Near the top is a large flat rock. On 



83 

stepping out upon this one obtains without the slightest 
previous intimation a glimpse of the valley similar to 
that had from Valley View, the rock overlooking the 
tops of the trees at the foot of the Cataract. The view 
seems the lovelier for being had so unexpectedly from the 
very heart of the forest. Not far from the top of the 
Cataract are fields through which one can easily reach 
the village and hotels, so that it is not necessary to 
again descend into the clove and return by the Hack- 
ettstown road. 

There is another and even more picturesque water- 
fall near Schooley's Mountain. This is Stryker's Falls, 
off the German Valley road, and is reached by following 
this road through Springtown to a stone-quarry, and 
there turning off to the left a short distance into the 
woods, from where one is guided to the falls by the sound 
of rushing water. As the path is not, however, easy to 
find, it is well to get a boy in Springtown to act as guide. 

About one and a quarter miles from the hotels is Pros- 
pect Hill. The road leads down into a ravine and then 
up a steep hill. In a pasture-field to the right is a chest- 
nut tree, from near which one obtains a view of the Mus- 
conetcong Valley, less circumscribed than that from 
Valley View, and enhanced by the delicate hues of the 
Blue Ridge in the distance. 

A fine view of the Musconetcong Valley and beyond 
to the Delaware Water Gap, the gap* in the mountains 
being clearly defined, is to be had from Mr. Alfred Sul- 
ly's place, on the road between Drakestown and Hack- 
ettstown. Almost the same view can be had also by tak- 
ing the Budd's Lake road almost to Drakestown, but 
turning from it on to the road which, near Drakestown, 
goes off to the left. Very soon after getting on this road 
the view referred to is obtained. The road eventually 
leads into that crossing the mountain, which may be 



84 

taken back to the hotels, but, as the map shows, there is 
a way of avoiding the steep grade of the mountain road, 
by taking the first turn to the left, which brings one on 
to the Budd's Lake road. Fine views can also be had 
from Eagle's Nest, Bald Mountain and Drake Hill ; but 
they do not differ in character from those already de- 
scribed. Each of the points named, excepting Valley 
View, which is too near, and the points near Drakes- 
town, which are too far (for the ordinary walker), is a 
pleasant excursion for a morning or afternoon. It is 
also an easy matter to drive to Budd's Lake and back 
in half a day, but it is better to take a day for this pur- 
pose, in order to enjoy the boating and fishing on this 
attractive sheet of water. 

A superb panoramic view is had from a huge rock at 
the edge of the plateau, about seven miles southwest of 
the hotel by the shorter road. This grim reminder of a 
remote geological age of ice and gloom is variously called 
Eagle Rock, Basin Rock, and the Point, the last name 
being applied to it on the map of the Geological Survey of 
New Jersey. The view is undoubtedly the finest to be had 
from any part of Schooley's Mountain, and the roads to 
it (for there are two) also afford many glimpses of pretty 
scenery, and at least one exceptionally beautiful vista. 
Of course it is an easy morning or afternoon drive; but 
it is a delightful day's excursion afoot, and, if the party 
wants to walk only one way, the train can be taken at 
Port Murray, only one and a half miles from the Point, 
for Hackettstown, and the stage from there for Schooley's 
Mountain. The Point is reached by the Pleasant Grove 
road. Just before it descends towards "the Grove" 
one has to the right a view extending, on a clear day, to 
the Water Gap. After passing through Pleasant Grove, 
two courses are open — to take the first road to the left 
and swing around past Mount Lebanon Church to the 



85 

Point, or to proceed on through Pennville toward An- 
derson, near which latter place a r ad to the left leads 
to the Point. A glance at the map will show that one 
can take either of these routes, and by simply continuing 
on past the Point return by the other, the road forming 
a loop to the Pleasant Grove road. 

Both routes are about equally attractive, but parties 
afoot who intend taking the train from Port Murray 
will, perhaps, find greater variety along the Mount 
Lebanon Church road. 

The Point is not reached by the wagon road. It is 
necessary to clamber for about ten minutes up a steep 
path so overgrown with brush that it is advisable to have 
a boy from one of the families on the mountain-side to 
act as guide. The view from the rock up and down the 
Musconetcong Valley is superb. Along the foot of the 
mountain flows the Musconetcong, whose course is 
marked by the sinuous line of trees which shade its cool 
current. Now and then, through a break in the foliage, 
its glistening waters come into view only to vanish again 
under the green archway. Rich pasture lands and fields 
of waving green impart a velvety softness to the slope of 
the opposite hills, whose predominating colors are varied 
with the white and red of neat farm-houses and ample 
barns. The series of mountain ranges beyond fade 
away from dark green to delicate tints of blue which 
finally lose themselves in the hazy distance. As with all 
the views in this region, there is nothing rugged or 
grand in this. But it has a certain feminine softness 
and grace which give it a peculiar charm. On a bright 
day Nature is seen here in one of her most affable moods; 
and, even if a storm be brewing, she is, perhaps, all the 
prettier for her passing petulancy. 

At the font of the mountain is the Point Mill, and 
from the bridge the view up the Musconetcong is one of 



80 

tranquil beauty — the water as it flows over the low tlani 
stretching like a band across the stream, with soft bor- 
ders of grass along the shaded banks above and floating 
islands of lily-pads beyond. 

BUDD'S LAKE nestles delightfully among the hills. 
It is a pretty sheet of water, full of bass and pickerel. In 
season there is abundant shooting over the mountain ; 
and in the early fall excellent duck-shooting on the lake. 
It is reached from Flanders. 

Joseph Bonaparte once thought of settling here, but 
during the negotiations he chanced to discover a carica- 
ture of his illustrious relative, belonging to the proprie- 
tor's daughter, which caused him to change his mind. 



CHAPTER VI. 

LAKE HOPATCONG. 



Etched in silver, in the wooded slopes of the High- 
lands of New Jersey, lies Lake Hopatcong. From among 
the hills it greets the beholder with one of nature's 
friendliest smiles. Its aspect is nearly always cheerful, 
for its surface is rarely agitated beyond a ripple. Yet 
this placid and ingenuous looking sheet of water has 
come down to us from one of the grimmest epochs 
in the earth's history. Once there doubtless flowed 
through the valley which now encloses Lake Hopat- 
cong a little stream, a mere thread of silver, winding 
through a strip of meadowland. Then, the giant 
forces of the remote North having gathered themselves 
for a slow but fearfully sure advance, a glacial army 
crept southward for untold thousands of years, crush- 
ing and levelling all obstacles and pushing in its van 
a veritable mountain range of debris — which was to its 
vast mass no more than the scum of the strand is to 
the sea. On and on it came, until, in what is now the 
State of New Jersey, it met an opposing force greater 
than itself. Evidence of the destruction that ensued is 
scattered all over that portion of the State which the ice 
had covered ; for, as the glacier melted away to the north 
it left in its retreating track the debris it had gathered 
in its advance. Right at the outlet of the valley through 
which our little stream had flowed, the glacier, on its 
retreat, heaped up a dam of drift; and, when the ice had 
crept back so far northward that the hills again wore a 
friendly summer aspect, they held in their embrace one 



of the loveliest lakes in the world. How long it mir- 
rored their soft contour before it gladdened the eye of 
man no one can say. But it is certain that it was known 
to the Indians long before the whites set foot upon this 
continent. Its Indian name, Indian relics found along 
its shores, and the fact that it lay in the track of a well- 
known Indian trail, substantiate this. 

Hopatcong (originally Hopatchung) signifies "Pipe 
Water," a name descriptive of the shape of the lake 
before its waters were artificially raised for the purposes 
of the Morris Canal in 1832. Since that time it has 
made islands of several promontories and entirely covered 
others, flowing far back into the recesses of the hills, and 
flooding the marsh which once divided it from Little 
Pond, with which it now forms a lake some seven miles 
long, and two miles in width at its broadest point. The 
main body of the lake is barely a mile wide at the most, 
but the coves on its western shore (the River Styx, Byram 
and Henderson Coves) are deeply indented in the hills. 

The Indians who dwelt on the shores of Lake Hopat- 
cong were the Nariticongs, a branch of the Lenni Lenape. 
Fish were plentiful in the lake and game abounded 
among the surrounding hills. The site of their princi- 
pal settlement is now submerged. It was near Halsey 
Island, which, before the damming of the lake, was con- 
nected with the mainland. The site was easily located 
by circular hearths of fire-blackened stones, from whose 
number it was judged that the Indian village was formed 
of some fifty wigwams. The dead were buried on the 
extreme end of the promontory, now Halsey Island, 
where many of their remains have been dug up. Histo- 
rians have also mentioned an Indian causeway of stone 
connecting Bertrand Island with the mainland, but no 
trace of it can now be found. It is also stated that work- 
men, while digging the Morris Canal, exhumed, near the 



89 

outlet of the lake, portions of an Indian skeleton with 
an armbone measuring thirty-six inches, which, if it was 
in proportion to the rest of the body, would indicate that 
this ranger of the primeval forest rejoiced in an immense 
frame. For he must have been at least eight feet in 
height. If a Nariticong, the race was indeed a noble 
one. Who knows, however, but that this skeleton may 
have been a relic of prehistoric man, borne down from 
the regions of perpetual winter during the glacial period? 
The last Indian to dwell on the shores of Lake Hopat- 
cong was Chincopee, an aged warrior of the Nariticongs. 
Long after the Lenni Lenape had emigrated from New Jer- 
sey this Indian, stirred by memories of his youth, returned 
to his native waters and hills to spend his last days. He 
erected a wigwam on what is now Chincopee Cove, and 
occupied himself fishing and making baskets. But he 
was finally driven away by the white settlers. With 
what feelings must the last of the Nariticongs have 
turned his back upon the lake over whose waters his 
forefathers had glided in their lithe canoes long before 
a white man trod upon its shores! Silently he gathered 
his few belongings into his canoe, and paddled for the 
last time across the lake to which his race had given 
its name. Entering the River Styx and penetrating to 
its furthest recess he vanished in the dark foliage 
of the mountain forest. The next morning a rift of 
smoke was seen curling above the trees on the side of 
the mountain bordering upon the Styx. It was observed 
at various times for about a week. Then a party was 
organized to reach the spot and effectually drive away 
Chincopee from the neighborhood. But on the morning 
the party was to set out there was no smoke to guide it 
toward the old Indian's camp. Nevertheless a start was 
made, and following the trail from the Styx into the 
woods they came, when half-way up the mountain, svd- 



90 

denly upon the remains of a fire. Near it, bruised, torn 
and dead, his hand clasping the hilt of his scalping knife, 
lay Chincopee. Not far from him, stretched on the 
ground, was the carcass of a huge bear. All about the 
spot was evidence of the terrible conflict which had 
proved fatal to both. The wish of the last of the Nariti- 
congs had been fulfilled — he had died on the hunting- 
grounds of his forefathers. Some superstitious folk 
believe that his spirit still roams the mountains whose 
sombre slopes are reflected in the Styx, and sometimes 
of a morning, when the mists are rising off the lake, they 
will point to the smoke from Chincopee's camp-fire curl- 
ing up above the dark foliage. 

This picturesque legend of Chincopee is probably a 
modern adaptation of an older and perhaps equally 
romantic Indian story — that of Quaquahela, a great 
sachem, who started to visit a distant tribe of allies in 
the far South. At sundown he crossed from Pipe Water 
town to Bonaparte's Landing, and following the shore 
for a considerable distance, drew up his canoe at what is 
now known as L'Hommedieu Meadow, From there he 
set out for the lodge of his friend, Comascoman, who 
resided on the banks of the Musconetcong, and who 
was to accompany him on his journey. He had gone 
but a short distance, when he was" attacked by a bear. 
Bruin being his totem, it was unlawful for him to kill 
that animal, and he started to return to his canoe ; but 
the enraged beast prevented this, and a desperate hand 
to claw battle ensued, in which Quaquahela purchased a 
victory with his life. A few days later the body of a 
huge bear was found, and beside it lay the club and 
totem, and all the hunting gear of the chief. The red 
men searched for days for their sachem's body, but find- 
ing no trace of it, concluded that he had gone to the 
happy hunting-grounds. The next full moon, the clan 



91 

saw on a side hill a mist ascending to the heavens, and 
wondered at the strange appearance. That night their 
medicine man had a vision, and in it Quaquahela ap- 
peared and told him that he had erected his spirit-lodge 
there, and would remain as long as the hills stood. Be- 
cause of his sin in killing his totem, the bear, he was 
excluded from the spirit-land forever. He promised to 
accompany his clan in all their expeditions, and when 
he retired within his lodge, they would know it by see- 
ing the smoke of his fire ascend to the tops of the trees. 
He also assured them that every time they would give 
him a friendly whoop, he would answer. And to this 
day in damp or wet weather a thin vapor may be seen, 
rising in curling wreaths over the spot ; and if a shout 
be given, the answer is heard as distinctly as if Quaqua- 
hela himself were replying. Thus the Indians accounted 
for the echo and vapor which add to the weirdness of the 
River Styx. 

The first white men that settled on Lake Hopatcong 
were hunters, who are thought to have ventured there 
about 1775, doubtless tempted by the abundance of game. 
The woods and mountains abounded with deer, bear and 
birds, and the lake teemed with fish. One does not have 
to go back further than 1835 for reminiscences of grand 
sport in hunting deer at Lake Hopatcong. Sometimes the 
game was driven into the water and there captured. The 
severe winter, 1835-36, exterminated the deer, and since 
then the sport afforded by that region has been limited 
to quail, partridges and fishing, the black bass of Lake 
Hopatcong being large and gamy, and there being, be- 
sides these, pickerel and perch. 

Until within recent years, the charms of Lake Hopat- 
cong were known to only a few of those choice spirits 
who penetrate into the very solitudes of the forests and 
mountains in their pursuit of nature's beauties; and this 



92 

lovely sheet of water lay almost neglected at the thresh- 
old of a great city whose population was constantly seek- 
ing new fields for summer amusement. The good fish- 
ing attracted sportsmen to its shores and it became a 
favorite camping-out place. But it was not until the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey purchased and laid out 
the excursion grounds at Nolan's Point and the Hotel 
Breslin was built at Chincopee Cove that this lovely 
sheet of water began to enjoy the measure of popularity 
it deserved ; for, through those enterprises it was able to 
afford accommodations respectively to people of moder- 
ate and ample means; so that now, with the other hotels 
on the Lake and the opportunities for camping out, 
Hopatcong attracts people from many and varied walks 
of life. 

The Central Railroad of New Jersey now carries about 
50,000 people every summer to Nolan's Point, and there 
is scarcely a day when the excursion grounds there are 
not a scene of life and bustle. The amusements afforded 
at these grounds are many and varied. There are a 
dancing-pavilion, flying^ horses and swings; and at the 
large, commodious float, boats without number. One 
can go fishing, rowing, sailing or canoeing; or charter a 
steam-launch and make a tour of the most attractive 
reaches of the lake. The railroad furnishes the grounds 
and their appurtenances free of charge, and the fee for 
the use of boats is low. Parties of half a dozen or more 
can, for 25 cents each, make the tour of the lake in the 
steam-launches, and boats can be had for 25 cents an 
hour. A hot dinner is served at noon at a charge of 50 
cents. That Nolan's Point should have become the 
favorite inland resort for excursions in this section of the 
country is only the natural result of the beauty of its 
location, the amusement it affords and the excellence of 
the railroad service. The company allows no liquor to 



93 

be sold on the grounds. It seeks the patronage of re- 
spectable people only, and the excursions at Nolan's 
Point, though they have no end of fun daring their 
day's outing, are notably quiet and orderly. Hence 
they do not interfere at all with the comfort of private 
residents or of the guests at the various hotels. Twenty- 
four hundred acres of water are not easily overcrowded, 
and so much of an excursion as embarks in boats and 
launches is soon so scattered over the lake as to lose its 
identity. Many of the little craft are lost to sight 
behind the shores of Halsey and Raccoon Islands, in the 
shadowy recesses of Byram Cove or in the cool shade of 
the wooded promontories which run, like spurs from the 
surrounding hills, into the lake. The excursions at 
Lake Hopatcong, therefore, simply serve to give a joyous 
zest to the season ; the excursionists enjoy themselves so 
thoroughly — sometimes unmistakably concentrating a 
whole year's holiday into their one day on the lake — that 
there is, in some instances, almost a touch of pathos in 
their unbounded delight. 

There is a comfortable hotel at Nolan's Point — the 
Nolan's Point Villa — which offers excellent accommoda- 
tions at moderate rates. It is one minute's walk from 
the railroad station. From the piazza and grounds fine 
views of the lake are had. Rates of board are $2.00 a 
day and from $12.00 to $14.00 a week. There are 
postal and telegraph facilities at Nolan's Point, and a 
telegraph and telephone office at the "Villa," which also 
boasts modern sanitary appliances. Before the season 
opens, the manager, Mr. G. L. Bryant, can be addressed 
at High Bridge, N. J. ; during the season, at the Nolan's 
Point Villa, Lake Hopatcong, N. J. 

The Hotel Breslin gave to Hopatcong its first decided 
"boom," for it brought to the lake the element of wealth 
and fashion, in the wake of which everything else follows. 



94 

It is a spaciously built house, offering the accommoda- 
tions of a first-class hotel. Its piazzas are large, and, 
while strolling up and down them, one can enjoy a lovely 
view, The lake is reached by a series of terraces, the 
highest of which is laid out in large flower-beds. To 
the right, looking from the hotel piazza, is the actress 
Lotta's cottage, and in the park to the left are many 
other attractive summer residences. There are the 
usual amusements of music, dancing, bowling, bil- 
liards and tennis. A large boat-house with bath- 
houses is at the foot of the terraces. Here all kinds 
of row-boats can be hired, as well as sail-boats and 
steam-launches. The rates are: Row-boats, per week, 
$0.00. Day, with man, $3.00; without man, $2.00. 
Hour, 50 cents i extra hour 25 cents. Sail-boats, per 
hour, $1.50; extra hour, 50 cents. Fishing tackle and 
bait can also be had. Steam-launches are let by special 
contract, the rate for a brief tour being $3.00 an hour. 
Boats for all trains stop at this point. Connected with the 
hotel is a livery stable, the rate being $5.00 for a morn- 
ing or afternoon drive with double team and $4.00 for 
a single team. A beautiful drive is through Berkshire 
Valley, of which, by the way, the Jersey Central's pas- 
sengers obtain a fine view before reaching Minnisink. 
What is much needed is a road around the lake, 
which could be made one of the finest drives in the 
country. 

A pretty drive is that to Dover, eight miles distant. 
Schooley's Mountain, eighteen miles away, is also an in- 
teresting drive, taking in Budd's Lake en route. It is 
usually made a day's excursion of. 

The rate for transient guests at the Breslin is $5.00 
per day ; by the week, $25.00 and $28.00. The head- 
quarters of the management are at the Gilsey House, 
New York. Post Office address during the season, 



95 

which begins about June 15th and continues until Oc- 
tober 1, is Rustic, Morris Co., N. J. 

According to the map of the State Geologist, Lake 
Hopatcong is 926 feet above the level of the sea and is 
the highest navigable lake within 350 miles of New York 
City. Its shores rise much higher, reaching at one point 
1,213 feet. The best view of the lake is to be had from 
the mountain just above Nolan's Point. Back of Zuck's 
Lake View House is a look-out, called Fried rich's-Hohe, 
which would command a superb view if the trees, which 
now cut off much of the vista, were thinned out. A fair 
view is also had from Mt. Harry, while from the piazza 
and upper stories of the Breslin some of the prettiest 
reaches of the lake can be seen, the hotel being situated 
about 185 feet above the water. 

In taking the reader on a tour of the lake, we will start 
at the southern end. Where it narrows down toward 
Shippenport, it is not navigable for steam-launches, and, 
though the dredging of a channel through this part of 
Hopatcong has been under consideration for some time, 
the lake is still entered through a feeder of the Morris 
Canal. The little launch churns its way gently along 
between the low banks of the feeder to the lock at Brook- 
lyn, a little settlement which at one time gave the un- 
romantic name of Brooklyn Pond to our lovely Hopat- 
cong. The passage through the lock is an interesting 
experience. The lower gates are opened and the minia- 
ture steamer glides into the lock, the gates closing 
behind it. It is now imprisoned in a narrow passage. 
On either side are high, dripping walls, and in front 
and astern the closed gates. There is a sudden 
roar of rushing, surging water. The launch lunges half 
forward, half upward, the churning of the screw adding 
to the turmoil. The lunging continues, the swashing, 
surging waters now lifting the launch by the stern, now 



96 

by the prow. The actions of those who have not been 
through the lock before are a study. The babies cry; 
the women grab the nearest man by the arm ; the girls 
are prettily flustered; the men endeavor to appear calm; 
the passengers that have made the passage before look 
amused ; the only persons absolutely indifferent are the 
captain and the engineer — it is such an old story with 
them that they do not even smile. When the inrushing 
water has raised the launch eleven feet, almost to a level 
with the top of the upper gates, these slowly open, and 
from its narrow, dark and gruesome prison the little ves- 
sel glides out upon a lovely reach of water, tranquilly 
mirroring the wooded slopes of gently rising hills. The 
change is so sudden that the beholder is almost impelled 
to rub his eyes, in order to make sure that he is not 
dreaming or watching the mere shifting of scenes in a 
theatre. Natuie could not devise a more dramatic effect 
than this sudden emerging from gloom on to the sunlit, 
dancing waves of Lake Hopatcong. 

It is not easy to gain an idea of the length of Lake 
Hopatcong, for at every point the vista is limited 
by promontories and islands whose shores overlap one 
another. For instance, after emerging from the lock, 
the view up the lake extends, at first, only to Bertrand 
Island; and it is not until the launch rounds a point on 
the west shore, a little south of the island, that a passage 
opens up through which the vessel glides into what 
seems another and larger lake, for now the reach extends 
for over two miles to Halsey Island beyond Nolan's 
Point. About half a mile beyond Bertrand the deep in- 
dentation of the Styx opens up on the west and Chin- 
copee and Nepanese Coves on the east ; while north of 
Halsey Island is the reach of three miles to Woodport, 
and west of it lie Raccoon Island and the broad expanse 
of Byram and Henderson Coves, the bowl of the original 




BERKSHIRE VALLEY ROAD. 



97 

" Pipe Water." It is easy to recognize these divisions on 
the map. They make the lake full of delightful sur- 
prises, and, since each new vista differs from the one last 
enjoyed, while its charms present themselves, as if by a 
preconcerted plan, in their most attractive order, one 
becomes at last convinced that Lake Hopatcong is a de- 
licious bit of coquetry on the part of Nature. 

As a rule, the hills around the lake are wooded almost 
to the water's edge so that the shores have a soft 
and gentle contour. Such is the impression carried 
away from a general tour of Hopatcong. But the 
sojourner who has time to make a more minute inspec- 
tion will discover that the beauty of the shores is varied. 
One of the most noticeable variations from the velvety 
softness of the mountain sides is on the west shore, a little 
beyond Bertrand Island and directly opposite Chincopee 
Cove. This is Sharp's Rock, which rises boldly about 
10 feet out of the water. Its front seems without a crevice 
for a blade of grass to grow in, and it presents a smooth, 
solid front, as if engaged only in gazing imperturbably 
at its own reflection in the lake. It is crowned with a 
beautiful growth of trees, in whose shade camping-out 
parties find one of their favorite retreats. The point in 
which Sharp's Rock is imbedded is known as Tempe 
Point, a name given to it soon after the Revolution, in 
honor of Tempe Wick, who lived near Morristown dur- 
ing the winter of 1779, when Washington's army was 
quartered among the Morris County hills. Tempe was a 
noted horsewoman — a skillful and daring rider. At a 
time when the Americans were securing all the horses 
they could for the army, a troop of horse came in sight 
of her as she was riding her favorite steed. Realizing 
what would be the animal's fate if the troop came up 
with her, she turned, and putting the whip to her horse, 
dashed away at full speed toward home, pursued by the 



98 

soldiers. She so distanced them that she had time, 
before they reached the house and began searching the 
stable, to lead the horse upstairs and secrete it in an 
apartment, where she kept it for several weeks, until all 
danger of its being seized had passed. 

Right around the point from Sharp's Rock is the en- 
trance to the Styx. This is one of the weirdest and most 
romantic retreats of the lake. For about half a mile 
from its entrance, one cannot comprehend why it should 
have been named after the river of Hades. But beyond 
the point where it is crossed by a bridge, it divides itself 
into two arms, running north' and south. Each of these, 
gradually narrowing so that the foliage on the hills 
casts its shadow from shore to shore and the mountains 
seem to close in upon the sullen waters, loses itself in 
the gloomy recesses of the forest. Trunks of decaying 
trees, whose jagged branches protrude here and there 
above the surface of the black waters ; the stillness, 
broken only by the shrill cry of the kingfisher and its 
unearthly echoes among the hills ; the long, hairy 
grasses which, as the water is disturbed by the splash of 
the oars, rise from the bottom, trail after the boat a 
moment, and then vanish with sinuous, snake-like move- 
ments, combine to so impress the traveler on the Styx 
with a sense of the mysterious and supernatural that he 
is ready to accept, without questioning, the legend of the 
Nariticong whose spirit is said to haunt the depths of 
the forest back of the south arm of the inlet. 

Chincopee Cove, on the opposite side of the lake, is a 
pretty nook. Its north shore is formed by Chestnut Point, 
a low, thicky-wooded promontory, tapering off to a nar- 
row tongue covered with a beautiful grove, between whose 
branches one sees glints of sunlit ripples beyond. Across 
the lake is the gray tablet of Sharp's Rock and the sombre 
shores of the entrance to the Styx. To the south this love- 




CANAL FEEDER. 



99 

Jy view is rounded off by Bertrand Island. In fact, Chin- 
copee Cove is another of those little lake vistas to which 
Hopatcong owes so much of its charm. Not until the 
oarsman has pulled out beyond Chestnut Point and 
Bertrand does he realize that he has been on a lake 
within a lake. On this cove, so retired, yet so near the 
main reach, the Hotel Breslin is situated ; so that, 
added to the picturesque features of Chincopee, are the 
life on the beautiful grounds which surround the hotel 
and the dashes of color made by the brilliant costumes 
of the young people (for, thanks to blazers, sashes and 
tennis-shirts, it is now with the genus homo as with 
other creatures of nature—the male can be as gaudy as 
the female, or even gaudier). 

Adjoining Chincopee Cove and lying between Chestnut 
and Nolan's Points, is Nepanese or Big Cove. The vicin- 
ity of Nolan's Point is well settled with summer resi- 
dences. On the point itself, besides the excursion grounds 
and hotel already mentioned, and the railroad buildings, 
are ice houses of great capacity, the cutting and shipping 
of ice from the pure frozen waters of Lake Hopatcong 
having developed into an industry of such proportions 
that winter only varies the operations of the railroad. 
The Central Railroad Company of New Jersey's branch 
from High Bridge to Lake Hopatcong is by no means 
a spur for summer traffic only. The long excursion 
trains of summer are succeeded by the longer ice trains 
of winter. This branch derives additional import- 
ance from its connection at Nolan's Point with the 
Ogden Mine Railroad, now also part of the Jersey Cen- 
tral's system. This road extends about nine miles north 
of the lake to the Ogden Mine, with stations at the fa- 
mous Ilurd Mine, whose sloping shaft runs 3,800 feet into 
the mountain, and to a depth of about 1,800 feet in a 
direct line, and at the Weldon and Ford and Schofield 



100 

Mines. From an elevation, but a few steps from the 
station at the Ogden Mine, a superb view is had in the 
direction of the Delaware Water Gap, which is well worth 
a trip from the lake. Another pretty trip for sojourners 
at Lake Hopatcong, is to take the Ogden Mine Railroad 
to Hopewell Crossing, about two and a quarter miles 
before the terminus at Ogden is reached, and where the 
train will be stopped at the request of any passenger 
who wishes to alight there. Taking the road to the right 
of the railroad, one reaches, afterwalkingabemt one and 
one-eighth of a mile, Morris Pond, a lovely little sheet 
of water, noted for its crystalline clearness and the beauty 
of its shores, the background of the view from the south 
end being a high mountain, whose base is laved by the 
waters of this charming lake. Picnic parties will find 
a pretty little island attractive. There are many fine 
black bass in Morris Pond, but, owing to the clearness of 
its waters, fishing is good only on a cloudy day. 

Off Nolan's Point, a little northward, is the emerald 
circle of Halsey Island. Thickly covered with hemlock, 
spruce and pine, it looks like a soft tuft of green float- 
ing on the water. Some of the spruces on this island, 
which is, like Sharp's Rock, a favorite camping-ground, 
are three feet in diameter. Halsey Island lies at the 
entrance of a large bay, which embraces Byram and 
Henderson Coves with their nooks and corners among 
pretty islets and rocky ledges. Passing through the 
little sound formed by Halsey and Raccoon Islands with 
the southerly shore of this bay, one sees, on the main, 
Bishop's Rock, a long, picturesque mass, near which is 
the boulder where Bonnel Moody, a notorious leader of 
England's partisans during the Revolution, concealed 
himself while Brandt, the Mohawk Chief, visited the 
Indian village opposite and induced the Nariticongs to 
take part in the massacre of the Minnisink. The point 



101 

of land just beyond Bishop's Rock to the northwest, 
rising some thirty feet and crowned by a pine, tall and 
vigorous in its old age, is known as Bonaparte's Land- 
ing. Joseph Bonaparte, ex-King of Naples and Spain 
and the brother of Napoleon Bonaparte, landed here 
while on a prospecting tour, which also included Budd's 
Lake. (See p. 86.) 

For wild, rugged beauty Byram and Henderson Coves 
surpass the other reaches of the lake. The shores rise 
from one to two hundred feet, and terraces of rock have 
rent and torn the green mantle which the forest has 
flung over the mountains. Most striking are the ledges 
which form the Devil's Stairs, to which Brandt and 
Moody paddled after the formei's return from the Indian 
village. On the southern shore of Byram Cove is Sperry 
Spring, a rill of clear, icy water. Henderson Rock is a 
great boulder on the point of the eastern shore of Hen- 
derson Cove, of which Raecoon Island seems a continua- 
tion, the passage between being so narrow. This island 
is wooded like Halsey, but its shores project here and 
there in picturesque ledges. The shores of the narrow 
northern arm of the lake, which runs to Woodport, are 
low and fringed with meadows and woodland. Their 
delicate beauty is another of Hopatcong's varied 
charms. 

In the shallow little arm which runs at the southerly 
end of the lake, parallel with the canal feeder, is Float- 
ing Island, a natural curiosity which attracts consider- 
able attention from those interested in such matters. 
This island, whether at low or high water, always re- 
mains about one foot above the level of the lake. It is 
noted for its flora, which includes the "side-saddle 
plant " (Sarracenia) with its pitcher-like leaves, corn- 
plants, sweet-briar roses, the rhododendron, spruce and 
tamarack. The Musconetcong River, of whose pictu- 



102 

resque valley we have had so many glimpses from 
Schooley's Mountain, is the outlet of the lake. 

The camps add not a little to the charms of life at 
Hopatcong. The white tents gleaming among the trees, 
the fluttering flags and pennants, the boats moored at 
the landings, anchored at the fishing grounds or speed- 
ing along to the splash and cadence of the oars, the 
sun-browned faces of the happy campers, combine to 
make those who are leading a less Bohemian existence 
enter with greater zest into the enjoyment of their out- 
ing. The camps play an important part in the annual 
Harvest Moon Festival, which is celebrated by an illumi- 
nation. Colored lanterns glimmer among the trees and 
on the boats ; and nearly every camp has its display of 
fire-works. An illuminated boat parade is another fea- 
ture. As the boats are invisible, the colored lights are 
like will-o'-the-wisps, of all hues, floating in and out of 
coves, among islands and up and down the lake, while 
voices of unseen singers are borne over the water. As 
the night wears on the lights separate and glide in many 
directions toward the various camps, cottages and hotels; 
one by one they vanish in the dark shadow of the shores, 
and voice after voice grows silent. Then, when the lake 
lies like a mirror in the moonlight, there is heard a mur- 
muring among the hills, like a low, melodious chanting 
of many distant voices; and one half fancies that the 
nymphs and naiads have come forth from the shaded 
springs and rills of the forest and gathered upon some 
moonlit meadow far up on the mountain to celebrate 
the glories of the night. 



INDEX. 

PAGE 

Alpha, the 77, 78 

Amusements and sport xx 

Andros, Sir Edmund xtv, 6 

Annandale 70 

BaltusRoil 54, 58 

Barclay's 73 

Basin Rock 84 

Bayonne City 26 

Belmont Hall 80 

Berkshire Valley 94 

Bergen xiii, 26 

Revolutionary history of 31 

fortifications of 30 

Bergen Point vii 

Ferry 34 

Big Cove 99 

Black River 72 

Bonaparte, Joseph 86, 101 

Bonaparte's Landing 90 

Bout, Jan E vertse 28 

Bound Brook 58, 61 

Revolutionary history of 63 

Borough, the 56 

Brainerd, John 11 

Brandt, the Mohawk 100 

Branch Mills , . 53 

Broad Street, Newark 24 

Brooklyn Pond 95 

Brooke, John 46 

Buccaneers, Spanish . . 71 

Budd's Lake x, 81, 86 

Burr, Aaron 9 

Buttermilk Falls 56, 63 

Caldwell, James 41, 46 

Calif on 72 

Carteret, George xiv 

Carteret, Gov. Philip xiv, 36 

Cary's 73 

Central Railroad of New Jersey vii, xvii, 1 

Chalybeate Springs 77-79 

Chester , m 72 

mining in 73 



104 

PAGE 

Chincopee 89, 90 

Chincopee Cove 93, 98 

Chimney Rock 56, 62 

Churches xix 

Clinton, Sir Henry 41 

Clinton 70 

CockloftHall 14 

Columbia Academy 30 

Combs, Moses N 2 

Communipaw 28 

Ferry xvii 

Congregationalism in Newark 5 

C ran ford 51 

Cushetunk . . . 70 

Mountain '. viii 

Deer exterminated in 1835-36 91 

Denmark 74 

' ; Deserted Village," the 54 

Dorincourt 80 

Dover 74 

Dover Iron Co 75 

Drakesville 74 

Dunellen 60, 61 

EngleRock 8J 

Ecrho Lake 53 

Elizabeth 33 

public buildings of 35 

origin of the name 36 

settlement of 36 

old records of 38 

pre-Revolutionary history of 37 

during the Revolution 39 

history of churches in 45 

Fairclo, Deacon 72 

Fanwood 54 

Fan wood Lake 54 

Fauna of New Jersey xii 

Feltville 54 

Flanders 73, 74 

Floating Island 101 

Finderne 66 

First Mountain vii 

Fisher Tavern 65 



105 

PACK 

Flora of New Jersey xii 

Franklin, William xv, 76 

Friedrich's Hohe 95 

German Valley 72 

Gifford, Archer 3 

Glenside 54 

Gouveneur mansion . . 13 

Green Brook 57 

Green Pond x, 74 

Hackett's Town 82 

Hacklebarney 72 

Halsey Island 88, iro 

liarvest Moon festival at Hopatcong ■ 102 

Heath House 79 

Henderson Hock 101 

Herberts, the 05 

High Bridge 70 

Highlands, climate of xiii 

Hopatcong, Lake xii, 70, 80 

sp< >rt at 91 

Hopewell Crossing 100 

Hotel Breslin ! 3, 99 

Hudson in the Half Moon xiii. 36 

Hurd Mines x, 75, 09 

Hyde, Gov. Edward xv 

Ice period in New Jersey 87 

Indian paths xv 

Indian skeleton 89 

Industries - xxi 

Iron-founding in Newark 3 

living on Communipaw 32 

Jacksonsbrook ■ 75 

Jansen, William xvii 

Job Male Library of Plainfield 59 

Kenvil 74 

Knox, General 61 

Knyphausen in Morristown 40 

Lafayette in Bergen 38 

Lake Denmark 74 

Lake Hopatcong 87. !»."> 102 

Lee, Major Henry 66, 69 

Le.'.ni Lenape Indians xv, 77 

L'Hommedieu Meadow $0 



106 

PAGE 

Lime in Clinton 70 

in German Valley xi 

Little Pond 88 

Livingston, Gov. William 40, 47 

Livingston, Susannah 33 

Maxwell, General 40 

Minerals of New Jersey xii 

Moraine term in New Jersey ix 

Morris County, iron industries of 75 

Morris Canal feeder 95 

Morris Pond 100 

Mount Lebanon 71 

Mount Parnassus 71 

Musconetcong Valley xii, 71, 83 

Nariticong Indians 88 

Netherwood 54 

Nepanese Cove 96, 99 

Newark 1 

manufacturers of 2 

settlement of 5 

population of 5 

social history of 5 

territory, price paid for G 

derivation of name 7 

Revolutionary history of , 13 

election contest in 13 

historic buildings in 14 

public library 16 

horse-car line 17 

public buildings 15-17 

churches in 7-12, 18-21 

parks, cemeteries, clubs 21 

railroad lines 18, 22-24 

business activity of 25 

New Jersey Historical Society 16 

Association 27 

topography of vii 

Jockey Club 48 

New Market 60 

Nolan's Point Villa 98 

Nolan's Point 92, 99 

Normauiggin Brook 53 

North Piainfield 56 



107 

PAGE 

Ogden, David 6, 76 

Ogden Mine 99 

Orange Mountain 58 

Peddie memorial 19 

Penn, John 70 

Pamrapo 29 

Pauw, Michael 28 

Pavonia 28 

devastated by Indians 29 

Peach culture in German Valley 72, 73 

Phillipsburg G9, 71 

Plainfield 56 

settlement of CO 

subterranean flow of wa er under 57 

healthfulness of 57 

public schools of 59 

clubs, schools and societies 59 

Plumbago at High Bridge 71 

Point, the 84 

Point Mill 85 

Port Oram 74 

Prospect Hill 41 

Puritan settlement of Newark 5 

Quaker Iron Works 75 

Quaquahela 90 

Queen's Rangers 68 

Rahway River 52 

Raritan River 67 

Raritan creditor, the 63 

Raritan North Branch 73 

Reese's Rock 71 

Richard Mine 74 

Rockaway 74, 75 

Rockaway Valley Railroad 70 

Rockaway Rolling Mill 76 

Roosevelt's Polacca 23 

Roselle 51 

Round Top 61 

Round Valley viii, 69 

Schoonmaker collection of Plainfield 59 

Schooley's Mountain x, 72, 76 

iron waters, analysis of 78 

Scott's Works 4 



108 

PAGE 

Second Mountain vii 

Svvaine, Elizabeth 6 

Sharpens Rock 97 

Shoe-making in Newark 2 

Short Hills ix 

S mcoe's Raid 68 

Somerville 66 

Somerset County Fair 67 

Sperry Spring 101 

Springfield, battles of 41-43 

Spruce Run 71 

Staats House 64 

Stryker's Falls 83 

Stuyvesant, Governor xiii, 5, 24 

Styx, the 96, 98 

Succasunna 75 

Taylor mansion, the , 70 

Taylor's Iron Works 70 

Tempe Point 97 

Tories in Bergen 32 

Treat, Robert 5 

Trouting 73, 74 

Valley View 82 

Van Dy ek, Hendrick 29 

Van Horn House 65 

Vernoy 72 

Wads worth. Captain 6 

Washington at Bound Brook 63 

in Newark 13 

in Morristown 40 

Inauguration Centennial 49 

in Somerville 67 

Washington Rock 56, 58, 61 

Washington Valley viii 

Watchung Mountain 53, 58 

Weldon Forge 75 

W.estfield ^L 52 

early times in J f* ^ ^ 

Wetumpka Falls , .ST. 55 

Wheat Sheaf ^ 51 

Whippany Forge ^. .j* 75 

White House, view from Ol 69 

Woodhull, William CV — 73 

Wyck, Tempe .a . 70 97 



^ 



8 I \ -. ./- 



\ xv . 1 



- 



'J 



-he. 



A 



<* 



v 






0o 




o 





X 0o x. 












% 


















«/-i /*•■■ 



: ^ \ 



bo X 









o 



^ •< 



<**- 



^ * 






X 0O x. 


















"^ ,^' 







-*, % 



<f> h 



mm - % 4' 






: 



« 









% 



*©0* 



bo* 



- 









** V \ 



^ 




















CONGRESS 




